kilohertz

iTrader: (1)

HI gang,

This is my second year of racing on carpet, USGT, our club just bought new CRC black carpet, super high grip right out of the box, and I now have 2 complete T2 008 cars, one that was built as a EU rubber tire car with 2.5mm chassis and setup per the 008 spec sheet and instruction manual, the second one is a complete but dismantled 008 built for US spec foam tires, 3.5mm chassis and all parts per the original build, aluminum posts and top deck etc.

I know this is an older car, but for me still viable and I have been having fun with the EU 2.5mm chassis, but we just put in black carpet and I now have 3 weeks to build up a car that would be suitable for the new rug. I am familiar with the basics of setup and have the complete HUDY setup station, but I need some input from experienced racers what parts to use, mix/match for the new carpet. I am thinking the thicker chassis may be the way to go with the AL posts, but again, I am inexperienced and don't know what makes a car handle well on this high grip carpet.

What I am asking for is some help in choosing chassis, top deck, lower suspension holders etc.... and where to start for link settings and shock oil and all that other stuff which I have only basic experience with.

From what I gather in reading old posts and trying to figure out the new carpet, is it a reasonable assumption that the old foam tires on grey carpet, could be similar grip to rubber tires on the CRC carpet, and thus I should be leaning towards the US spec foam tire setup instead of EU spec rubber tire setup from '08?

Our club has only a few Xray racers and we live out of town so only see them on race days so getting any serious help time is limited as we are all racing.

Thanks all for your help.

Cheers

bdmpastx

iTrader: (4)

Something I do when I change the car up for black rug
Reduce camber and droop
-.5 to -1 deg camber
Droop 1-1.5 orh
softer springs all around
glue the sidewall of the front tire, if it is still lifting, glue the rear as well. Start small and work up as grip comes up.

Lone Drifter

That is a very tough question , Did you ever use the 3.5 mm chassis car on gray carpet with rubber tires?
When I had my Tc5 foam car with a 3mm chassis, top plate and rubber tires it ran no where near as good as my tc6 with 2mm topplate and chassis. ( both on gray carpet) Now on Black carpet my Tc6 (nearly unchanged )does not run as good as my Tc7 with aluminium chassis (stiffer then 2mm cabon).
If you have run your 2.5 mm T2 008 on gray carpet you know what to expect from it . The black carpet will have way more traction ,be more consistant then gray carpet. If you are racing USGT I would use CA glue on the outside front side walls of the tire (maybe rears too) you will probably have to soften the setup of the car too. If there is more traction you may have to go with less droop.
I would set up the 3.5 mm T2 008 the same as the 2mm car see which one works better. I dont know maybe the 3.5mm chassis will kind or act like a aluminium chassis.
I think once you get used to the Black carpet you will like it better .

kilohertz

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys, appreciate the input. I glued the fronts of my T4 2013 TC stock and that made a difference, I haven't glued the USGT yet.

Any more ideas or input?

kilohertz

iTrader: (1)

Another thing I noticed...anti sway bars...some versions have them front and rear, other's just front. I have several sizes available for both, any suggestions?

Cheers

mooby64

iTrader: (3)

Here are my suggestions-
Thick shock oils (450cst) front and rear.
Soft springs (13 to 14 lb).
Thicker sway bar in front, softer in the rear.
5mm droop front, 6mm rear.
1 degree camber in the front, 2 degree rear.
Hope this helps.

KE4PJO

This is where I would start, if it were me.
XRAY ::: Set-up Sheet - XRAY T2'008
Or this http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...0&setup=t2_008

kilohertz

iTrader: (1)

Thanks again boys, I decided to wait for a few more ideas before I put this together....will probably start later this week.

Darryl, just so I understand, what is your reasoning for picking those 2 setups? Cool form to use for future, but both quite different.

Thanks

KE4PJO

Options...One is a rubber tire set-up and the other is a foam tire set-up. Given that both are from the "old" grey carpet, I thought you could appreciate the differences.

kilohertz

iTrader: (1)

OKay excellent. I am starting to assemble as we may race at a different club this weekend, also new black carpet.

Thanks all!

Cheers

mooby64

iTrader: (3)

One MAJOR thing to adjust will be the actual L/R balance, once the battery and electronics are installed. A local racer, using the same chassis as you, had to hang the lipo half way off the chassis, to balance the car.
Good luck with your build.

kilohertz

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Mooby,

Let's hope mine is the same...as with the thicker plate and the routered, recessed mounts for the suspension, my battery won't fit under the top deck.

Cheers

kilohertz

iTrader: (1)

Well the first race day on the new chassis was disappointing....in the rebuild I dialed out too much traction and spent the whole day trying to get rid of understeer, the car just had no traction and pushed through all the corners. The one way front diff only lasted a few laps of practice and I yanked that, back end kept coming around on corner entry. I pulled all of the aluminum posts between decks, lowered the front roll center with new lower blocks, removed the rear anti sway bar, still couldn't keep it from pushing. Next race is the 31st so I think I am going back to the 2.5mm chassis and the way it was, and then try and dial out traction until I get it to it's happy space. Sure has been a good learning experience, I know every nut and bolt in the car now.

Arg!

Cheers

TeamThibault

I have a foam 008 chassis sitting in my box. Does any one know what gear diff will fit it?

mschumi101

iTrader: (30)

I wouldn't give up on it quite yet, I think that if you can get the thick chassis to turn in, it will be a lot faster than dialing grip out of the thin chassis. I find that adjusting roll center at the lower blocks isn't too much of a noticeable change. I much prefer to adjust via the camber links for a quicker/more noticeable change. I would make the front links as low and short as possible, lowest, outboard hole inner front. Raise the outer ball stud under the wheel if you can. Add a little toe-out up front if you need more initial turn in. Narrow the front track width if you need more grip throughout the corner. Adding a little camber might help. I would also stand the shocks more upright. Lastly look at dampers/springs. Could go either way on them depending on how the car is behaving. Another thing could be adding more rear droop, and less front droop will aid in steering.

A good general rule of thumb is if you are having an issue on a certain end of the car (not turning), you should change things on that end. Don't fix a front end issue with only rear end adjustments. If the front still isn't turning after trying those adjustments, and the rear isn't already wildly whipping around, then start doing the opposite things of above to the rear of the car. Make the links longer and higher inside, lower at the hub. Stiffer anti-roll, less toe-in, less camber, lay down shocks etc. Make sure ride height is consistent throughout, but you can always add a little rake to the chassis, lower front, higher rear. Lastly make sure the body you are running is a relatively neutral body mounted properly. I have raced some bodies (Protoform R9) that were just awful to drive. I would throw a Mazdaspeed 6 on the car and with the same chassis setup could be 1-2sec faster a lap and much comfortable with the car. It's amazing what the bodies can do.

I wouldn't give up quite yet, just keep practicing and trying new things with it. Like I said before, I think making the thick chassis turn will be far faster and more consistent than reducing grip with the thin chassis.