Gizmo Racing GZ2!!!
#572
Tech Adept
So I attempted to run my GZ2 in 21.5 Saturday night, to say it was a disaster is putting it nicely. The car is undriveable. The carbon braces on the arms flex or the ball studs flex, not being threaded alloy like the Awesomatix, on a hit the screw can flog out the hole on the carbon and the car goes from 2 degrees toe in to 6 degrees toe out as the hub is floating around and you can't do anything. The carbon braces that hold the diff in which the camber links attach to, they flex as well, you can see the brace moving!
Surely there must be somewhere I can get threaded alloy ones for these. Yes I know in the thread previously that it was an intended weak point, but come on..... 3D printed diffs which strip screws and leak like a sieve, and parts support, well one parts supplier and shipping costs? It quotes me $22.33 to ship ONE SHOCK TOWER! Now I can (and have) shipped a Serpent 4x roller to the states for $28, so someone's pulling a swifty here....
My A800 is 3 yrs old, taken many a hit, never broken anything around these areas.
Very disappointed in the car so far, and it already seems to be going the same way support wise that the A700 when with Awesomatix, the company line "We will continue to service that model" but 99% of the discussion on the shiny new car. The Gizmo Genesis thread is already well up on this one, that's the cool kid in town now I guess?
Anyone in Australia want to buy a GZ2? I'm thinking it may be time to cut my losses here.
Sorry guys, but at this point in time, I'd recommend a Tamiya TT-01 over this. Open to any ideas to make something usable out of this thing but at this point in time, I'm not impressed with it, and I won't be changing to the Genesis. It looks like an A800 with T4 shocks. The GZ2 was innovative, it was different, that was the hook. I just seemed to have realed in an old shoe, not a decent sized fish.
Apologies if anyone is offended by my honest feedback.
Surely there must be somewhere I can get threaded alloy ones for these. Yes I know in the thread previously that it was an intended weak point, but come on..... 3D printed diffs which strip screws and leak like a sieve, and parts support, well one parts supplier and shipping costs? It quotes me $22.33 to ship ONE SHOCK TOWER! Now I can (and have) shipped a Serpent 4x roller to the states for $28, so someone's pulling a swifty here....
My A800 is 3 yrs old, taken many a hit, never broken anything around these areas.
Very disappointed in the car so far, and it already seems to be going the same way support wise that the A700 when with Awesomatix, the company line "We will continue to service that model" but 99% of the discussion on the shiny new car. The Gizmo Genesis thread is already well up on this one, that's the cool kid in town now I guess?
Anyone in Australia want to buy a GZ2? I'm thinking it may be time to cut my losses here.
Sorry guys, but at this point in time, I'd recommend a Tamiya TT-01 over this. Open to any ideas to make something usable out of this thing but at this point in time, I'm not impressed with it, and I won't be changing to the Genesis. It looks like an A800 with T4 shocks. The GZ2 was innovative, it was different, that was the hook. I just seemed to have realed in an old shoe, not a decent sized fish.
Apologies if anyone is offended by my honest feedback.
Ok agreed it does have some Awesomatix parts but that’s a good thing for some of the lasting bits ( drive shafts ) is value for money. Funny you mention the diffs mine are still the original GZ1 diffs, never leaked or stripped anything on it till today. It’s the smoothest diff amongst alll the other brands which I own. Maybe it’s the x ray diff gears inside lol
I do compete in the 13.5t boosted super stock class regularly and amongst some real rough racers here this car has not disappointed in terms of reliability or performance, Yes the top guys here that I race here are still faster but not all that far away really. Perhaps the only complaint are the noisier than usual spur gears during acceleration. Sounds raspy!
Sorry to to hear what you went through but same can be said about some other top brands around me that were badly built too.
This is car is rock solid if it built it well in the first place. Guess not all cars are designed the same.
#573
Tech Regular
iTrader: (19)
My GZ2 is very reliable. 3 day race last weekend and race today. Probably 20 lipo packs run and not one broken part. And I am far from a good driver. Have had some issues with diff leaking, but after experimenting seem to have issue solved.
I am faster with it then any car that I have owned.
I am faster with it then any car that I have owned.
#574
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (315)
Thanks for the replies, it's been frustrating, but what I have noticed over the years is when you post something that isn't all ensuing praise of an item in that item's thread you attract two kinds of people.
1. The fanboy - They will make a comment like "Well my car has been great" anyone challenging this is wrong, the car is perfect you're bad you f... up for having these issues.
2, The supporter - Someone who wants to help, they may have the car themselves and want to help others enjoy it
Looking at the responses to the post I made, that seems to still be consistent.
I will try and take a video to show where the areas of flex I have are but basically:
GZ11702 - the carbon holders that go on the hub, these flex, what it seems to be is as the hole where the screw goes in for the toe link ball stud isn't that tight (or flogs out easily) you can easily get 3-4 degrees movement in that hub, that can mean rear toe is moving all the time from -2 to +2 in my case, over and above any active rear toe settings.
GZ11701 - the carbon holders again, the ball stud which connects to the steering rack moves in the hole, I noted the awesomatix uses alloy and part AM14LS is very similar in shape and size so substituting that has helped.
LS2 steering rack, these we have found can bind up very easily, a hit on the front wheel can push the bearings out of the channel. Resolved this by fitting an LS1 rack which is far more resistant to hits (and used on my A800) Also changed my toe links to VBC Balls and Studs as the Gizmo / Awesomatix ones are fairly soft (we change them out on the A800 too)
Rear Shock Tower, mine was broken on arrival, sent a few emails to Gizmo USA asking what one I need, that question never seems to get answered so have sent it off to Bezerk RC to make one up for me, in the mean time retro fitted a BD7 shock tower which works fine
Caster plates 1211 and 1212 seem to move under load as well, again the screw holes for the M3x6 to screw into the bulkhead seem slightly large so even tightened down, the upper bracket is moving. Being carbon also means needing capturing nuts on the underside. Alloy as per the AM19-2 on the Awesomatix would be a god send here.
Also found the diff doesn't like heavier fluid (500k) trying to tighten it down the std screws just stripped out, even threading in 3x8 Counter sunks wasn't a great fix, but seemed to sort of hold.
I also found that on our large track, the shorty pack just lacks punch especially in 21.5 which with control motors is now a battery war. Against 7000-8000 packs in std tourers, the 4000-6000 shorty you can see the lack of power, I know the Genesis resolves this one, but I was thinking I may set this up as a carpet car on the alloy deck I have (and can't get $10 for lol!) as I am already invested in this thing. So looking at another rebuild on it, I have seen some people with the alloy 1211 / 1212 style plates on here, but can't see where to get them, may also replace GZ11702 with something like Awesomatix AM23-1 it may mean the toe links are at a bit more of an angle so active rear toe will be more reactive, so will have to shim up to compensate (I usually try to run 0 active rear and 2.5 static rear toe anyway)
Any help is appreciated though
1. The fanboy - They will make a comment like "Well my car has been great" anyone challenging this is wrong, the car is perfect you're bad you f... up for having these issues.
2, The supporter - Someone who wants to help, they may have the car themselves and want to help others enjoy it
Looking at the responses to the post I made, that seems to still be consistent.
I will try and take a video to show where the areas of flex I have are but basically:
GZ11702 - the carbon holders that go on the hub, these flex, what it seems to be is as the hole where the screw goes in for the toe link ball stud isn't that tight (or flogs out easily) you can easily get 3-4 degrees movement in that hub, that can mean rear toe is moving all the time from -2 to +2 in my case, over and above any active rear toe settings.
GZ11701 - the carbon holders again, the ball stud which connects to the steering rack moves in the hole, I noted the awesomatix uses alloy and part AM14LS is very similar in shape and size so substituting that has helped.
LS2 steering rack, these we have found can bind up very easily, a hit on the front wheel can push the bearings out of the channel. Resolved this by fitting an LS1 rack which is far more resistant to hits (and used on my A800) Also changed my toe links to VBC Balls and Studs as the Gizmo / Awesomatix ones are fairly soft (we change them out on the A800 too)
Rear Shock Tower, mine was broken on arrival, sent a few emails to Gizmo USA asking what one I need, that question never seems to get answered so have sent it off to Bezerk RC to make one up for me, in the mean time retro fitted a BD7 shock tower which works fine
Caster plates 1211 and 1212 seem to move under load as well, again the screw holes for the M3x6 to screw into the bulkhead seem slightly large so even tightened down, the upper bracket is moving. Being carbon also means needing capturing nuts on the underside. Alloy as per the AM19-2 on the Awesomatix would be a god send here.
Also found the diff doesn't like heavier fluid (500k) trying to tighten it down the std screws just stripped out, even threading in 3x8 Counter sunks wasn't a great fix, but seemed to sort of hold.
I also found that on our large track, the shorty pack just lacks punch especially in 21.5 which with control motors is now a battery war. Against 7000-8000 packs in std tourers, the 4000-6000 shorty you can see the lack of power, I know the Genesis resolves this one, but I was thinking I may set this up as a carpet car on the alloy deck I have (and can't get $10 for lol!) as I am already invested in this thing. So looking at another rebuild on it, I have seen some people with the alloy 1211 / 1212 style plates on here, but can't see where to get them, may also replace GZ11702 with something like Awesomatix AM23-1 it may mean the toe links are at a bit more of an angle so active rear toe will be more reactive, so will have to shim up to compensate (I usually try to run 0 active rear and 2.5 static rear toe anyway)
Any help is appreciated though
#575
I can assure you that you never emailed anyone at Gizmo Racing USA. You would have emailed reflex racing and there is absolutely no trace of this in any of our inboxes
If you have specific questions about what to replace, it depends on what you want to do.
We went to the 1pc upper arm mounts to eliminate the movement of the split 2 pc mounts.
For the hub pieces, they wear out. Replace them with fresh ones, alloy ones from Awesomatix or upgrade to the new Genesis hubs. We have some new ones that are single hole that help reduce delamination, which in turn is what causes flex. If the hole gets loose, using CA can tighten them back up. If you want less flex and more durability, seal with CA as well.
The diffs, well, they can strip after tightening and re-tightening. This is not something out if the ordinary for plastic diffs. Happens to all the TC’s that I have owned with plastic cases. I suggest keeping an oil side one handy when this happens. You can always drill deeper and use a longer screw if you have issues and just recently we started using plastic coarse thread screws. Machined screws tend to strip plastic easier, especially if you get oil in the threads.
We are all here to help, but I’d venture out to say that you will get a more positive response from people if you are more polite with your approach. If you come across abrasively, people will respond in kind.
If you have specific questions about what to replace, it depends on what you want to do.
We went to the 1pc upper arm mounts to eliminate the movement of the split 2 pc mounts.
For the hub pieces, they wear out. Replace them with fresh ones, alloy ones from Awesomatix or upgrade to the new Genesis hubs. We have some new ones that are single hole that help reduce delamination, which in turn is what causes flex. If the hole gets loose, using CA can tighten them back up. If you want less flex and more durability, seal with CA as well.
The diffs, well, they can strip after tightening and re-tightening. This is not something out if the ordinary for plastic diffs. Happens to all the TC’s that I have owned with plastic cases. I suggest keeping an oil side one handy when this happens. You can always drill deeper and use a longer screw if you have issues and just recently we started using plastic coarse thread screws. Machined screws tend to strip plastic easier, especially if you get oil in the threads.
We are all here to help, but I’d venture out to say that you will get a more positive response from people if you are more polite with your approach. If you come across abrasively, people will respond in kind.
#576
Thanks for the replies, it's been frustrating, but what I have noticed over the years is when you post something that isn't all ensuing praise of an item in that item's thread you attract two kinds of people.
1. The fanboy - They will make a comment like "Well my car has been great" anyone challenging this is wrong, the car is perfect you're bad you f... up for having these issues.
2, The supporter - Someone who wants to help, they may have the car themselves and want to help others enjoy it
Looking at the responses to the post I made, that seems to still be consistent.
I will try and take a video to show where the areas of flex I have are but basically:
GZ11702 - the carbon holders that go on the hub, these flex, what it seems to be is as the hole where the screw goes in for the toe link ball stud isn't that tight (or flogs out easily) you can easily get 3-4 degrees movement in that hub, that can mean rear toe is moving all the time from -2 to +2 in my case, over and above any active rear toe settings.
GZ11701 - the carbon holders again, the ball stud which connects to the steering rack moves in the hole, I noted the awesomatix uses alloy and part AM14LS is very similar in shape and size so substituting that has helped.
LS2 steering rack, these we have found can bind up very easily, a hit on the front wheel can push the bearings out of the channel. Resolved this by fitting an LS1 rack which is far more resistant to hits (and used on my A800) Also changed my toe links to VBC Balls and Studs as the Gizmo / Awesomatix ones are fairly soft (we change them out on the A800 too)
Rear Shock Tower, mine was broken on arrival, sent a few emails to Gizmo USA asking what one I need, that question never seems to get answered so have sent it off to Bezerk RC to make one up for me, in the mean time retro fitted a BD7 shock tower which works fine
Caster plates 1211 and 1212 seem to move under load as well, again the screw holes for the M3x6 to screw into the bulkhead seem slightly large so even tightened down, the upper bracket is moving. Being carbon also means needing capturing nuts on the underside. Alloy as per the AM19-2 on the Awesomatix would be a god send here.
Also found the diff doesn't like heavier fluid (500k) trying to tighten it down the std screws just stripped out, even threading in 3x8 Counter sunks wasn't a great fix, but seemed to sort of hold.
I also found that on our large track, the shorty pack just lacks punch especially in 21.5 which with control motors is now a battery war. Against 7000-8000 packs in std tourers, the 4000-6000 shorty you can see the lack of power, I know the Genesis resolves this one, but I was thinking I may set this up as a carpet car on the alloy deck I have (and can't get $10 for lol!) as I am already invested in this thing. So looking at another rebuild on it, I have seen some people with the alloy 1211 / 1212 style plates on here, but can't see where to get them, may also replace GZ11702 with something like Awesomatix AM23-1 it may mean the toe links are at a bit more of an angle so active rear toe will be more reactive, so will have to shim up to compensate (I usually try to run 0 active rear and 2.5 static rear toe anyway)
Any help is appreciated though
1. The fanboy - They will make a comment like "Well my car has been great" anyone challenging this is wrong, the car is perfect you're bad you f... up for having these issues.
2, The supporter - Someone who wants to help, they may have the car themselves and want to help others enjoy it
Looking at the responses to the post I made, that seems to still be consistent.
I will try and take a video to show where the areas of flex I have are but basically:
GZ11702 - the carbon holders that go on the hub, these flex, what it seems to be is as the hole where the screw goes in for the toe link ball stud isn't that tight (or flogs out easily) you can easily get 3-4 degrees movement in that hub, that can mean rear toe is moving all the time from -2 to +2 in my case, over and above any active rear toe settings.
GZ11701 - the carbon holders again, the ball stud which connects to the steering rack moves in the hole, I noted the awesomatix uses alloy and part AM14LS is very similar in shape and size so substituting that has helped.
LS2 steering rack, these we have found can bind up very easily, a hit on the front wheel can push the bearings out of the channel. Resolved this by fitting an LS1 rack which is far more resistant to hits (and used on my A800) Also changed my toe links to VBC Balls and Studs as the Gizmo / Awesomatix ones are fairly soft (we change them out on the A800 too)
Rear Shock Tower, mine was broken on arrival, sent a few emails to Gizmo USA asking what one I need, that question never seems to get answered so have sent it off to Bezerk RC to make one up for me, in the mean time retro fitted a BD7 shock tower which works fine
Caster plates 1211 and 1212 seem to move under load as well, again the screw holes for the M3x6 to screw into the bulkhead seem slightly large so even tightened down, the upper bracket is moving. Being carbon also means needing capturing nuts on the underside. Alloy as per the AM19-2 on the Awesomatix would be a god send here.
Also found the diff doesn't like heavier fluid (500k) trying to tighten it down the std screws just stripped out, even threading in 3x8 Counter sunks wasn't a great fix, but seemed to sort of hold.
I also found that on our large track, the shorty pack just lacks punch especially in 21.5 which with control motors is now a battery war. Against 7000-8000 packs in std tourers, the 4000-6000 shorty you can see the lack of power, I know the Genesis resolves this one, but I was thinking I may set this up as a carpet car on the alloy deck I have (and can't get $10 for lol!) as I am already invested in this thing. So looking at another rebuild on it, I have seen some people with the alloy 1211 / 1212 style plates on here, but can't see where to get them, may also replace GZ11702 with something like Awesomatix AM23-1 it may mean the toe links are at a bit more of an angle so active rear toe will be more reactive, so will have to shim up to compensate (I usually try to run 0 active rear and 2.5 static rear toe anyway)
Any help is appreciated though
There are not a ton of us that run the car, but everyone that i know that do seem to really like it. There are some small issues people have with it, that we try to clear up. I am personally a team driver, and try to do my best to help anyone who needs help. I don't race on asphalt tracks or mod, but it's been discussed in the thread about the limitations of a shorty for these conditions. On a 100x60 size track I have no or .1-.2 a lap fade after 6 minutes, on medium/high grip. I disagree on the punch for 21.5 im not sure what brand of pack you use but a reputable one is recommended. The plates do tweak if you take a crash, just like every other TC, its part of tc.
Again you can use the genesis camber plates, with putting a set of front carbon hub pieces on the rear.
#577
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
In the beginning I was having issues with consistent settings on the rear of my car. Camber, caster and toe were all over the board everytime I put it on the rack. I found that the amx ball cups were sloppy. I replaced them with 4.9mm ballcups from arc and used 4.9mm ballstuds from vbc. No longer do I have wondering settings.
With the shorty pack, I have recently found the car to feel sluggish in the last minute. This is with a 3 season old 5000mah battery, I’m sure a new pack that got more then zero maintenance would bring that feel back.
It took me a lot to wrap my head around this car. I’m still not 100% sorted with it and I really struggle when the traction comes up. Everyone on this forum is looking to help each other out. I’ve received a ton of help from this forum and the their local gizmo team driver.
Stick with the car, it’s gonna be good for yah
With the shorty pack, I have recently found the car to feel sluggish in the last minute. This is with a 3 season old 5000mah battery, I’m sure a new pack that got more then zero maintenance would bring that feel back.
It took me a lot to wrap my head around this car. I’m still not 100% sorted with it and I really struggle when the traction comes up. Everyone on this forum is looking to help each other out. I’ve received a ton of help from this forum and the their local gizmo team driver.
Stick with the car, it’s gonna be good for yah
#578
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (315)
Yeah I have checked and rechecked the slop is in the carbon things, I changed one to a metal (like awesomatix run) and problem fixed. The genesis parts may fix it, but post to Australia is prohibitive. I remember ordering Caster Doodles from reflex racing and being quoted $50 postage!
#579
Seriously, are you just trolling? I know your reputation preceeds you as a malcontent on the forums, and I remember you being a big hater on the platform early on, but you are a moderator on here. Behave as such!
Please stop spreading lies. WE HAVE NEVER SOLD caster doodles. NEVER. You have never asked to quote anything from us. Shipping would never be $50 to Australia unless you were using something like express. I would have given you face value for postage as I always do with international orders.
If you have no desire to take our advice, that is fine. I have always believed that you can’t help those that don’t want to be helped. I think that is the case here.
Please stop spreading lies. WE HAVE NEVER SOLD caster doodles. NEVER. You have never asked to quote anything from us. Shipping would never be $50 to Australia unless you were using something like express. I would have given you face value for postage as I always do with international orders.
If you have no desire to take our advice, that is fine. I have always believed that you can’t help those that don’t want to be helped. I think that is the case here.
#580
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (315)
I'm curious how I can be a hater when I bought the car to make an informed judgement and opinion on the car I understand people can react to the less than elloquant way I sometimes Express myself a drawback of asd I'm afraid but also makes me an easy target at times but rest assured all I want to do is get the car to work.
#581
Super Moderator
iTrader: (239)
Yeah I have checked and rechecked the slop is in the carbon things, I changed one to a metal (like awesomatix run) and problem fixed. The genesis parts may fix it, but post to Australia is prohibitive. I remember ordering Caster Doodles from reflex racing and being quoted $50 postage!
#584
Super Moderator
iTrader: (239)
This may illustrate it. Left hand side is original carbon arm, right hand side is an alloy Awesomatix part substuted in (AM14A I think) Both sides have new ST24 and P13-4 Awesomatix Balls and Cups
https://youtu.be/svazVilxCGw
https://youtu.be/svazVilxCGw