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Gizmo Racing GZ2!!!

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Old 06-21-2018, 04:56 PM
  #391  
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Originally Posted by RoyB View Post
Looking for battery hold downs for my GZ2s. Found part number RSDGZ010 on Gizmo site for GZ1. Are these good? Are there better options?
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those should be fine, I will send the latest spec.
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Old 06-28-2018, 11:23 AM
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Does anyone else drill vent holes in their shock caps? I always liked vented shocks but I'm not sure if its the recommended thing.
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Old 06-28-2018, 11:30 AM
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I think for the most part we all vent our caps now. The only time I may not do this is on High Bite Asphalt and the older Gray Carpet when the bite was higher.
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Old 06-30-2018, 03:27 PM
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Great run today with the GZ2 on carpet , with the help of the captains set up and some little tweeks , was able to get the car the way I like it and picked up 2 laps from last weekend.
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Old 07-03-2018, 09:34 PM
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Was able to install the wrap around top deck and a front diff(really not a spool guy) and the car is so consistent. Set a new track record by 2 Laps(39 laps in 6:01). I知 struggling to get the car to rotate mid corner. I知 gonna try a couple things for next week and if that doesn稚 work, I値l post up a set up sheet and hopefully you guys can steer me proper
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Old 07-04-2018, 05:09 AM
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Originally Posted by lorider75 View Post
Was able to install the wrap around top deck and a front diff(really not a spool guy) and the car is so consistent. Set a new track record by 2 Laps(39 laps in 6:01). I知 struggling to get the car to rotate mid corner. I知 gonna try a couple things for next week and if that doesn稚 work, I値l post up a set up sheet and hopefully you guys can steer me proper
Try the set up above
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Old 07-09-2018, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Marcos.J View Post
Great run today with the GZ2 on carpet , with the help of the captains set up and some little tweeks , was able to get the car the way I like it and picked up 2 laps from last weekend.
Ran the same setup again yesterday but with the BittyDesign 410 mounted 5mm forward and pickd up a whole lap(plus a few seconds) from the previous race (same layout) also my lap average dropped about 2-3 tenths per lap, Very consistent still with Jaco's from a previous state race.
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Old 07-09-2018, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Marcos.J View Post
Great run today with the GZ2 on carpet , with the help of the captains set up and some little tweeks , was able to get the car the way I like it and picked up 2 laps from last weekend.
can you explain the 3 check marks on the arms? I知 not following that piece of the setup.
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Old 07-09-2018, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by RollingChicane2 View Post


can you explain the 3 check marks on the arms? I知 not following that piece of the setup.
only the outer is not used typo on my part
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Old 07-11-2018, 09:16 PM
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So I just got the 2019 beta and started building the car. I havent owned a Gizmo car before nor worked on the Awesomatix cars before, and without and sort of instructions whatsoever, needless to say I was pretty confused at the building process. Remembering the GZ2 is a similar car, I used that manual to help build the car, but its not the best thing in the world and still involved lots of guessing and trial and error. I managed to build the car except the shocks for now and was plenty frustrated at the whole process.

Here are some of my gripes.
  • The 4 plastic inserts that goes in the chassis seems unnecessarily complicated. I deformed one of those inserts following the instructions and forcing it onto the chassis. I trimmed down the lip for the rest of the inserts and that went in easier.
  • The lower shock mount on the arms doesnt fit properly. If I follow the GZ2 instructions, the front have the rounded part facing inward and is mounted on the most inner hole, but to mount to that hole, the mount doesnt sit flush with the car as there isnt enough clearance for the mount to slide down the arm and wil start to ride up the angled part of the arm, causing the mount to sit crocked. The screw was barely able to thread onto the mount.
  • The rear lower shock mount have the rounded part facing out and is mounted at the second widest position. From pictures on the manual and online, it seems like you only need to use one screw, but the mount just flops around not properly secured onto the arm. not sure why that is.
  • The kit only came with 2 3x8 set screw the screw into the lower shock mount but a bunch of 3x3 set screws. Not really sure why. I had to dig around my parts bin to find 2 more longer set screws.
  • The front double joint driveshaft was a MAJOR PAIN IN THE ASS to build. I kept trying to pry that cylinder thing open but afraid I would over stretch it and causing it to deform, but it was getting late and I just want it to be done so I just shoved my flat head in there and twisted it open. Gave me enough clearance to slide the joints in and close it up. The drive shaft felt pretty bomb proof once it was built, but hated building it.
  • The same goes for the rear. I had a hard time trying to figure out how the hell do you open up that cup until I realized that you dont pry the cup open in the slot, but shove your flat head screw driver onto the base of the cup forcing it to open. That made it easier to assemble the rear CVD.
  • The front upright went together without a hitch, but the rears had an issue. The holes for the rear carbon arm were too small to fit over the upright. I had to drill it out some in order for it to fit.
  • The plastic used for the front spool and rear diff doesnt seem like is molded but rapid 3D printed. it feels really rough. The teeth on the pulley seem to be molded correctly, as if the "valleys" which the teeth on the belt sit in seems too shallow. Kind of worried about belt skipping in the future. I guess will have to wait and see
  • The inner front joint doesnt move smoothly. The joint that slides into the cup seems to be binding with the cup. Its not binding on the bearings. This causes the entire front suspension to bind on both sides and doesnt move up and down smoothly.
  • After installing the steering linkage to the front upright and steering rack, I noticed the linkage doesnt lay flay but at a steep angle up, due to the steering arm mounted high up on the upright. Not sure if thats how its suppose to be or I need to shim the connecting ball down a bit. Granted I havent put the car on the setup station yet and havent adjust the caster so that might change later.
I havent built the shocks yet so cant comment on that, will report back later once they are built. Hopefully they go a lot smoother than the rest of the car.




Which position should I be using for the rear caster arm? Right now Im using the widest setting, Thinking I should go to the inner one instead


Also is there a basic setup for asphalt I can base off of?
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Old 07-11-2018, 11:48 PM
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I gave instructions to Dave about using the GZ2 manual to complete the car.

The short set screws are to be used on the hole on the shock mount that you are not mounting the lower shock to. When you tighten both together, you essentially "lock" the shock mount in place.

The drive train shafts are Awesomatix. They are a bit tough to build, but it gets easier as you get more experienced. It helps to mount on a cushion surface to exert the pressure downwards with the flat head as you turn. Using some channel locks to press in place is also a good tip to help the build.

The diffs and spools have always been 3D printed on our cars. That's still how they are going to be for a while. We have considered an aluminum diff, but we are not quite there yet.
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Old 07-11-2018, 11:56 PM
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Also, mount the shocks in the rear in the widest possible setting. This is a set up change for the BETA cars.

you are good on the steering block position in the rear.


for the front, you may want to shim your outer link downwards. I usually run between 4-7mm depending in what I want with bump steer.

The inner joints can be a bit tight. Tolerance is a bitch on these, and the awesomatix shafts. However what I do I I use a good amount of your favorite thick grease and work the parts in. Before your first run, run the car at about 1/4-1/2 throttle steeringside to side for a couple of minutes. It will break in and the result will be an extremely low slop and very responsive drive train.

for the rear, compress the shocks as you do the break in for a minute or so as well. You can pump the shock up and down as you do this.

for settings:

front: 4 deg caster, 2 deg camber. Use some 450 oil to start, Axon 2.5 HLS springs are a good starting spot. Second inner most hole for tower.

rear: 0 caster, 2 deg camber, 2.75 toe. 450 oil, Axon 2.5 HLS Second inner most hole for tower. Use 5-7k in the diff.
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Old 07-11-2018, 11:57 PM
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Oh and the last thing, you should have received some of the aluminum upoer arm mounts in your kit. They are pretty good if you ask me.

also, you ate running the widest position on the rear upper arm mounts. With this set up you get the most rear bite. Use the position where you have the inner rear toe link to get more rotation, and move the inner rear toe link to the most rearward spot.
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Old 07-12-2018, 12:21 AM
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Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
I gave instructions to Dave about using the GZ2 manual to complete the car.

The short set screws are to be used on the hole on the shock mount that you are not mounting the lower shock to. When you tighten both together, you essentially "lock" the shock mount in place.

The drive train shafts are Awesomatix. They are a bit tough to build, but it gets easier as you get more experienced. It helps to mount on a cushion surface to exert the pressure downwards with the flat head as you turn. Using some channel locks to press in place is also a good tip to help the build.

The diffs and spools have always been 3D printed on our cars. That's still how they are going to be for a while. We have considered an aluminum diff, but we are not quite there yet.
Ah, I had a suspicion those extra 3x3 set screws were for that purpose. Like I said, first time owning a RSD car and didnt know your diffs were 3D printed. Having an aluminum diff would be sweet.

Driveshafts were hard to build, took me a while to figure it out but worked out in the end.

Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
Also, mount the shocks in the rear in the widest possible setting. This is a set up change for the BETA cars.

you are good on the steering block position in the rear.


for the front, you may want to shim your outer link downwards. I usually run between 4-7mm depending in what I want with bump steer.

The inner joints can be a bit tight. Tolerance is a bitch on these, and the awesomatix shafts. However what I do I I use a good amount of your favorite thick grease and work the parts in. Before your first run, run the car at about 1/4-1/2 throttle steeringside to side for a couple of minutes. It will break in and the result will be an extremely low slop and very responsive drive train.

for the rear, compress the shocks as you do the break in for a minute or so as well. You can pump the shock up and down as you do this.

for settings:

front: 4 deg caster, 2 deg camber. Use some 450 oil to start, Axon 2.5 HLS springs are a good starting spot. Second inner most hole for tower.

rear: 0 caster, 2 deg camber, 2.75 toe. 450 oil, Axon 2.5 HLS Second inner most hole for tower. Use 5-7k in the diff.
Thats what I had planned, just run the car steering left and right and compressing the suspension hopefully to break it in. might need to resort in hitting it with the grinding wheel if that doesnt work

Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
Oh and the last thing, you should have received some of the aluminum upoer arm mounts in your kit. They are pretty good if you ask me.

also, you ate running the widest position on the rear upper arm mounts. With this set up you get the most rear bite. Use the position where you have the inner rear toe link to get more rotation, and move the inner rear toe link to the most rearward spot.
Yeah I got the metal mounts as well. Thought I would give the CF ones a try as they look "cooler"

So leave my current rear camber link where it is now for rear bite. Wider rear toe link will provide more traction, what does mounting the rear toe link rearward do?
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Old 07-12-2018, 01:57 AM
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Thought it'd be a bit of a tough build for disaster999 given no experience with AMX yet
And apologies missed given the screw instructions over! Didn't think he'd put it together so quickly haha

Will be putting mine together over the next few days. Am super excited to try AMX adjust-ability on the suspension geometry but usage of more standard shocks

Good to have a list of some of the more difficult points too - should be worth making a note in the instruction manual when that comes along.
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