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Old 01-31-2006, 03:26 PM   #1
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Default Motor Endbell Shorts !!!!Boom!!!!

We have found many solid endbell motors recently with shorts. One or both brushhoods may be shorted to the endbell due to various reasons. These motors tend to run decent, but vary from losing performance to blowing up speedos quickly. This is not a new topic, but it is just becoming realized how damaging these motors can be to electronics with todays batteries and how wide spread they may be. As these motor age and work their way down thru Ebay they may be devastating to the average Joe mid level equipment... and are costing many tenths they do not realize right now.

Anyone else have experience with this issue or interested?

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Old 01-31-2006, 04:44 PM   #2
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And how do you check for this?
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Old 01-31-2006, 05:53 PM   #3
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We are looking for shorts from the brush hoods to the endbell, can or armature shaft. These should be open. Use a basic voltage meter and check for continuity. Find 2 places on the endbell where you can measure continuity (non anodized spots), then measure from one of these to the brush hoods.

We think some of the designs are prone to shorts if banged hard or abused with the solder iron. Some motors have cleaned up indicating brush dust, some are likely worse when hot due to the thermal expansion of all the metals. Some are cap board issues or where the anadizing has worn off. Some are shorted NIB.

There should not be continuity between the hoods and anywhere... except the other hood when assembled via the brushes and windings. When there is you have a nice little heater element, wasted power and a tough load for a speedo.

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Old 01-31-2006, 06:47 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeamTekin
We are looking for shorts from the brush hoods to the endbell, can or armature shaft. These should be open. Use a basic voltage meter and check for continuity. Find 2 places on the endbell where you can measure continuity (non anodized spots), then measure from one of these to the brush hoods.

We think some of the designs are prone to shorts if banged hard or abused with the solder iron. Some motors have cleaned up indicating brush dust, some are likely worse when hot due to the thermal expansion of all the metals. Some are cap board issues or where the anadizing has worn off. Some are shorted NIB.

There should not be continuity between the hoods and anywhere... except the other hood when assembled via the brushes and windings. When there is you have a nice little heater element, wasted power and a tough load for a speedo.

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What if your Endbell is made of High-Temp Polymer similar to what Checkpoint will be releasing soon? Thanks.
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Old 01-31-2006, 06:50 PM   #5
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Polymers tend to be insulators and therefore shouldn't short.
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Old 01-31-2006, 09:26 PM   #6
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Hi we need some more information...

did it go like !!!BOOOM!!! or like this {{{{KABOOOOOM}}}}

let us know
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Old 01-31-2006, 10:11 PM   #7
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There's no reason to play wiseguy. This problem is real, and Tekin isn't the first to notice this, or have an issue with it, that's a fact. If there is a short anywhere, the speed control is what will suffer the consequences, whether it be Tekin, Novak, LRP, etc. You should also notice a decrease in performance.
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Old 01-31-2006, 11:51 PM   #8
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Yes problem is real. I once had a Reedy PT 8x2, I made sure everything was clean with new brushes and a newly cut comm. After 4 mins of hard running (motor was fast though), it suddenly slowed down until I finally saw my endbell vaporized. The hoods are popped out and so are the brushes and damaged my armature. My Hara Twister was not damaged at all!

Was my motor shorted? I really cant figure out what happened.

Finally had to switch to V2 endbells and it works perfectly fine.
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Old 01-31-2006, 11:58 PM   #9
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I've never seen this problem with a Reedy motor unless the add on caps went bad. Which in mod can happen alot. The Trinity motors can do the same thing but the caps on the circuit board appear to be a lil better quality then add on caps. I've seen this a lot with the Orion V2 endbell as the epoxy that is used to hold the brush tubes in basically gets cooked. Mainly a problem with low turn mod motors.
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Old 02-01-2006, 12:19 AM   #10
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Is that regardless of what side shorts out (negative or positive)?
So by soldering caps from the tabs to the can. does that automatically create a short or does that short only matter if the caps go bad?
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Old 02-01-2006, 01:06 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Searles
There's no reason to play wiseguy. This problem is real, and Tekin isn't the first to notice this, or have an issue with it, that's a fact. If there is a short anywhere, the speed control is what will suffer the consequences, whether it be Tekin, Novak, LRP, etc. You should also notice a decrease in performance.

u dont have to be a sad case
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Old 02-01-2006, 06:41 AM   #12
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Most of the ESC's now automatically shuts off if there is a short, right?
and Inspite of this, the esc can still blow up because of the solid endbell??

This is scary and will be pretty hard on the wallet, not to mentionthe Rx that might also be damaged!!!

Just asking.........
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Old 02-01-2006, 07:05 AM   #13
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ESC's may thermaly shut down, not to sure if you can install short circuit protection to....
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Old 02-01-2006, 08:19 AM   #14
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I don't know of any speedos that shut down specifically because of shorts. Thermal Overload Protection is the only esc shutdown feature that I know of, and could possibly be activated inderectly due to a shorted endbell I would think, but it is still too risky to just leave it to thermal overload and forget about it. Chances are you speedo (any brand) will die before overload protection ever reacts. Like one of you said it is a scary problem, and hard on the wallet, so it really needs to be brought out in the open and dealt with, like we are doing now.
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Old 02-01-2006, 08:33 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeamTekin
We are looking for shorts from the brush hoods to the endbell, can or armature shaft. These should be open. Use a basic voltage meter and check for continuity. Find 2 places on the endbell where you can measure continuity (non anodized spots), then measure from one of these to the brush hoods.

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are short circuit protection in the works?
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TURBO GFX>>>> http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?p=4329165#post4329165
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Thanks for looking
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