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Yokomo MR-4 TC Thread

Yokomo MR-4 TC Thread

Old 12-03-2001, 08:41 PM
  #901  
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thanks for the info, guys! ill just put extra grease on the screw. its good to know that tc3 pistons will fit, i dont have to buy new ones.
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Old 12-05-2001, 05:25 AM
  #902  
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Hi guys,

Been away from this thread a while.

We had a bit of a long break - 3 weeks - between RC races and have been doing other things meanwhile.

Ran the real race car last weekend, after putting a bit of RC tech into practice on the real thing. We worked mainly on suspension tuning. I actually made up a set of set up wheels - full size, and bolted these on - and got quite a few surprises. No wonder it handled like a pig.

Anyway I got 5 runs on Sunday's sprint meeting and ended up 7th overall, and 2nd best touring car, which is a vast improvement on my previous result last month - 22nd overall. And I am now running the next best times after the single seater racing cars - which I have always felt is where I should be.

And all this by transferring my RC technology to the real thing - softer springing and damping, plenty of droop, less rubber on the road - the car was vastly over tyred, and accurate geometry.

The engine is still too top-endy with a very small power band, but that's next on the list of things to improve. Nothing a pair of softer cams won't cure.

This Sunday it's back to RC. We are on the long circuit but I still find a 12 turn motor gives best results. I've tried 10s and 11s. They are initially quicker but don't give 5 minutes unless you gear them so low they end up slower than 12s.

So I see that our man Masami has cleaned up again in off road. What cars was he driving?

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 12-05-2001, 06:51 AM
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Hey Joe,
That's awesome that you learning to tune your full size car by applying r/c tuning skills to it!! I would say from 22nd to 7th is quite an improvement. Good show mate!

BTW, depending on how well matched your cam is to your current head/intake/exhaust combination, you might be able to broaden the torque curve by increasing the lobe seperation. I believe you have dual cams on that motor, so you would have to have the cam gear adjuster. Also remember that advancing the cam timing will bring the torque down in rpm's a little.
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Old 12-05-2001, 08:51 AM
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Hi there! Just want to ask u guys if u had any problems w/ the rear belt (44T) stripping or breaking? My friend has a Yok MR4 SP and has broken 3 belts in about 2 weeks. He is using a front 1-way and the aluminum layshaft, the gears of which were also stripped at the same time as the belt. He didn't experience this w/ his V-spec so his wondering if Yok changed the belt for the Special. Any tips to avoid this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks


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Old 12-05-2001, 10:15 AM
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Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.

Big dog. Thanks for the tips. We have been playing with cam timing in an effort to make the car more tractable but the truth of the matter is that the cams it has are far too wild. There is nothing at all below 7000rpm, then all 180 bhp comes in and before you know it you are on the rev limiter at 8400rpm. The motor will rev a fair bit more but I prefer to limit it to 8400 for reliability's sake.

I have spoken to the manufacturers of the head, KAD of Kent, England, and I am sending them the present cams. They do an exchange and will be sending some cams with softer profiles which they reckon will still give me the same bhp at the top but maximum torque at 5000. That's a bit more like it. I'll let you know how we get on.

Incidentally I say we because the car actually belongs to my brother. He also has a March 2 litre single seater which he races himself, and I race the 16 valve Mini. He finished 4th overall on Sunday, which whilst not being as good a result as he may wish, is far better than his recent results, for he has had an aweful season with unreliability, and I am sure he was glad just to complete all his runs and take the car back home in one piece.

Blue. I haven't had much bother with MR4 belts, and have raced mine for 2 whole seasons already and am now in my third. What I have done recently though is dremel an oval hole about 2cm x 1cm in the chassis, below the rear diff gear. I have also opened out the back of the diff casing, behind the rear shock mount. This allows any stones or foreign matter to exit as fast as it gets in, and before it has time to cause any damage.

I was exhibiting Model car stuff at a fair last week and a guy took plenty of pictures of my Yoke with a digital camera. He promised to E mail them to me. As soon as he does I will bounce them onto this thread.

I was planning to go down to the track this evening, with son Josh to do a bit of practice but I am feeling so full of cold that I think I'll just go home early, take a TC3 or MR4 kit with me, and spend the evening in front of the heater, building it. Hopefully I'll be well enough to spend some time at the track tomorrow.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 12-05-2001, 05:42 PM
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Blue,
The best compromise setup for Modified is to use the front SP belt and the rear low friction one from the PRO and WORLDS car.
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Old 12-05-2001, 07:55 PM
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hey guys,
does anyone know where i could buy the front bulkhead cap for my worlds??? i have loked all over and cant find them. i havnt been able to drive my car for like two weeks.. i guess it must of been the wrong piece to break that day..hehe


thanks
kurt
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Old 12-05-2001, 09:54 PM
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Kurt- if you will look back a few days, that has already been covered. I think the person even gave the part number and everything. Speedtech is a good place to get Yok parts.
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Old 12-05-2001, 10:49 PM
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anyone here tried 64p gears in their mr4tc's? i currently run 20/78 for a 10x2 mod. if i use the same gear ratio as 48 pitch, is there an advantage for 64p or should i stick to 48p? thanks for any info!
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Old 12-05-2001, 11:09 PM
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Hey all,

I own a YR4 M2 Type J Yokomo chassis, but I was thinking of just switching the YR4 chassis with the MR4 chassis... I'm just wondering if they'll be able to switch nicely?
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Old 12-06-2001, 07:20 AM
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Originally posted by marvi
anyone here tried 64p gears in their mr4tc's? i currently run 20/78 for a 10x2 mod. if i use the same gear ratio as 48 pitch, is there an advantage for 64p or should i stick to 48p? thanks for any info!
Marvi, that problem I had was finding a spur that doesn't drag or bind in 64p. I finally went back to 48p and haven't had any problrms. The only reason you would want 64p is for the added ratio options in stock anyway. In mod, you don't need to fine tune that much.
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Old 12-06-2001, 08:35 AM
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Hi, I use 64dp spurs from Corally, it is very tough and don't bind.
I prefer 64dp as it helps to fine tune the gear ratio, even in modified racing.
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Old 12-06-2001, 04:00 PM
  #913  
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dugrant- no it won't work. And there would be no hube benifit anyway.

I use 56 pitch gears, I like them because they are a great compromise between durability, and tuning options and noise.

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Old 12-06-2001, 04:15 PM
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ok, thanks! ill just try the different ratios for both 64p and 48p. i think i saw a 64 and 48p chart somewhere for yokomos. i'll use dm racing 64p spurs that i was using in my tc3. they seem to run true enough as they didnt cause any problems then.
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Old 12-06-2001, 10:54 PM
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Hi Guys,

Just want to drop a quick note in here that we are having our Christmas Super Sale going on right now!!! For details, check out our website first page. We are also giving away a car kit for FREE this month.

Thanks

Steve Wang
Speed Tech R/C
www.speedtechrc.com
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