johnbull: Thanks! I'm getting old! :D

STLNLST: Good luck at the first carpet race....I can see that you will need it! LOL :rolleyes:

Kentech: Do you have the Yok's latest set-up for the "All Japan Race TC"? I noticed that the Yok's cars were running with the green springs instead of the yellow springs this time.

MIKA: Yeah they did use the green springs. What is it i've been saying the last couple of months about running the Special quite stiff... ;)

The setup is on the Yokomo Japan site. Although I have a Japan version of the acrobat reader I still can't see the setup correctly...just the numbers. I must be doing something wrong...:confused:

Please, somebody help!

http://www.yokomo.co.jp/yokomoweb/se...MR-4/tcspj.pdf

Happy birthday kentech!

mo- Aside from changing pistons, oil and springs, what else can I do to make the car more responsive?

Thanks,
Josh

Speedo: Make sure your shocks are on the outside positions on the tower. Move the camber link down for more low speed steering and up for more on power steering. Also you can shorten your shocks to reduce chassis roll, but too short will just make it unstable and spin out.

Are you anywhere near Richland, WA? I most likely will be coming up there for the Northwest Carpet Champs at West Coast Hobbies at the first of December.

Thanks for the reply. I live 75 minutes away from West Coast, but that is where I race, for on-road. I'll be at the carpet champs too. Hopefully will see you there :)

Speedo

After buying my MVP and mucking around club racing for a few weeks, I've finally had a chance to go up against a TC3(Spitfire) fresh from a second place at the NZ South Island champs.
It's very close down the straight, The MVP just has a bit more top end and through the corners there's even less in it.
I'm pretty happy overall but things are going to get even better(=FASTER)

I need to replace my brushes as they are getting VERY short so I'll have all that bottom end torque back when the new brushes go in. I can't wait for next weekend...

Help,

When I am mounting the rear camber link to the rear bulkhead, I've seen some pictures on Kentech's site. The rear camber links have two different types of ball ends, one with a hex, that connects to the shock tower and the other small that connects to the hub carrier. When I am connecting to the rear bulkhead which ball end is used for the bulkhead and the hc. do I flip the link around. Do i replace the hexed ball end for another short one? what do I do? Also do I connect the link to the front of the hub carrier or the rear.

I understand this plants the rear end, but why? If the why part is too much to explain, other than "it just does", then that's cool.

thx
Steve

I will be converting my Pro to the Special via the conversion kit. I have been running the one-ways. To anyone that has already performed this conversion, what are some of the things I should look out for? I keep hearing about a soft set up. If it doesn't rain this weekend, I'll be racing on prepared asphalt. And in a week, carpet. Thanks in advance.

thatdog: Can't think of anything special really. The car will be more resonsive. Most guys on this thread seem to run a softer setup than on the Pro. Myself I have actually been running the car slightly stiffer and with 2 deg rear toe in. At the Japan nats last weekend they run green springs all round with #300 oil.

StMedina: When I have run the link on the bulkhead I just used the same ball stud (with hex). You obviously need a longer screw and then I a shim between the head of the screw and the ball stud (to make sure the link can move free). If you have the new rear arms and use the long wheelbase setting I think you have to mount the link to front of the hub. Why it gives so much grip? I just don't know! The position is very close to the upper inner hole on the tower so it should not change the car too much... It's one of those things that just work even though I don't understand it. :confused:

Speedo: thanks!

Sounds like you are having fun Simon. How many runs do you think those brushes have had?

I also do not know why mouting the link there would give more rear traction. It is also lowering it just a little, maybe that also has something to do with it, or the angle :confused:

Speedo,
I think they've done anywhere between 14 and 18, 4 minute runs. When the brushes have been narrowed, the "usable" piece of the brush is shortened.

I've run my rear upper link on the rear bulkhead for a few months now. I use Losi ballends and the long ballstud from the YR4 Anti roll bar kit(I knew they'd be worth keeping)
I think the standard Yokomo ballends aren't quite long enough to be run securely.

My SP is currently running Yellow/30wt/#3 Assoc piston in front and Blue/25wt/#3 Assoc piston in Rear. Have just got some extra blue springs so I'll try blue all round at the weekend.

thatdog- I see that you're from the San jose area so the carpet in a week race I'm assuming is in stockton. You would want to get intouch with Mo. He is the Yok guy down here. He's on this thread sometimes.

stlnlst, i am going to be moving up near sacramento to a town called folsom. do you know where that is??? well, any way i am going to race a the track in sacramento. maybe i will see you there.

i just got a mr4tc world replica, and the guy that sent it to me sent some vrge tires, and i know everyone says they suck but they handle really well on the street. i never lose traction. they arent the best though. i also tried my kawada slicks, and they work great.

Wheeeew! 14 runs! Yup, I can see why they would need replacing! Do you get any Trinity motors over there?