fredswain

iTrader: (1)

Lots of weird things were tried back then. Paragon sold Jump Jets which were tapered pins that went through the piston holes. As shocks compressed the taper on the pin took up more and more area of the piston hole until it was nearly closed by the top. It varied pack with travel and speed. We ran light oil with them. The idea sounded neat but in practice they didn't work very well. We mostly used the little internal springs to help dissipate the rebound shock to the shock bottom when the shock fully extended again. The shock bottoms were soft by modern standards and were easy to strip out. It sucked having a shock blow apart.

fredygump

iTrader: (1)

I'm really curious about this, the reason for the springs, and the reason they stopped using them? Was it just a one time thing, or were there several models that used the internal springs?

My search found the Losi XX4 Worlds Edition, and the internal springs were just for the front.


I found pictures and videos of the car, but no comments about the front suspension.


(And I agree that running offroad trucks on pavement leaves a lot to be desired.)



*edit*

I just found online comments referring to the internal springs as "limiters". I guess that's simple enough. Same idea as what Fred said.

The comments also suggested that they were best suited for smooth tracks.

The idea of internal limiters is where I started. I was thinking about using internal limiters instead of droop screws. I modified my front A-arms to give me less caster (i.e. front uprights standing up straighter), but it moves the droop screws half way off of their perch. And the perch is already worn significantly, maybe half way through. It's just the steel screw against the aluminum chassis, so naturally the aluminum is going to wear first. (This is on my mbx7r eco.)

So I though about using shock o-rings as an internal bump stop. And then I realized that using a spring would effectively give me the kind of suspension performance I had been thinking about months ago when I started this thread.

ta_man

iTrader: (168)

Regarding SST setup, what I'd like to know is how to get my RC stadium truck on pavement to be lifting the inner front (like the SST) instead of the inner rear.

Anyone have suggestions for that?

fredygump

iTrader: (1)

Remove the sway bars if you have them, and keep the springs and shock oil fairly light. And maximum suspension droop. I think part of it is a result of the rear straight axle w/ 4 link suspension.

(It's technically a bad thing from a speed and racing perspective, but it's the result of taking a pure offroad truck and making it run on pavement.)

I know the Yeti XL does this all the time. It's the thing about the truck that most people complained about, atleast from what I've seen. People were desperate to install sway bars, because the thing lifted a front wheel with full acceleration.



If you're lifting the inner rear...when turning, that means the front springs are soft--too much weight is transferring to the outside front.

To get it the other way around, you want stiff front springs and soft rear springs. And it's only going to on acceleration out of a turn, b/c that is when weight is transferred to the rear.

But the Yeti lifts a wheel on straight acceleration, which is what I was thinking first.

MX304

iTrader: (21)

Bypass shocks can't be scaled down for our use unfortunately. Now if anyone ever figures out how to make inerters for our scale, it's game over.