Darkstorm05

iTrader: (9)

I'm running a 4.0 on small high grip carpet tracks. I'm finding that on lower speed hairpins, I don't have enough steering to get around the way I want. I tried dialing up the dual rate on my TX but that causes me to have problems with control on higher speed corners. I'm mostly running the default setups from the manual with the exception of lowering the rear ride height a bit. Is there anything quick and easy I can try to address this? I should mention that I intend to move to the 5.0 AC if it ever gets to the stores here, which I am hoping does better with the steering than the 4.0. Any tips on settings without buying hardware to get me through the month before the 5.0 is available?

Pistol123

On high grip astro I found that reducing the rear toe down to 2' helped a lot. I used I -2 rear toe block but you might be able to use the inserest around the other way - there is a chart on tlr blog.

bgymr

iTrader: (2)

Is anyone running the monster max certified 17.5t motor on carpet? And if so what pinion/spur combo are you using?

Ondaedg

iTrader: (6)

Hey all. New to 2wd with a quick question. Will be running spec class and was wondering if the Losi 22 4.0 SR comes with the stand up tranny as well as the lay down. Any help is appreciated.

76nova1

iTrader: (66)

The SR only comes with the laydown trans.

Alexv2024

iTrader: (2)

You really need the hrc rear block that reduces toe in and raises the roll center. The kit setup sucks as its a general purpose easy to drive setup for dirt. You need to look up frank roots carpet setup from fall 2018 for the 4.0 and run that. It runs sway bars and hrc piviot parts so if you want to to be cheap you could ignore the shocks and sway bars and just change all the links, hrc rear piviot stuff and hubs. That would drive a ton better and be inexpensive. I ran my 4.0 with that setup 4 separate times on astro turf and it was great. The rear toe in was a big change by its self so start there at least.

Teeyo

iTrader: (1)

Frank Root

iTrader: (25)

It completely depends on the motor, motor timing, esc settings, track size and grip.

m3rcfh

iTrader: (4)

I've seen astro setup sheets with batteries fully reward, 3/4 forward, 3/4 reward, fully forward... is there a consensus on what is the best compromise for stock astro racing? Are people really running the battery forward on stock astro?

I noticed I get little steering with new tires (even with sway bar disconnected), and it starts to get better as the rear tires wear. So I thought in moving the battery forward in steps to see what it does. I just don't like that that the electronics are crammed with the longer battery tie down. Should I just keep the battery on the rear, and start adding weight to the front instead?

Pistol123

Squashing the electronics up front is a good move (helps with a low profile servo) as you then have the option of running the battery forward. Ithe really helps the steering with the battery forward, 25g electronic weight and the servo weight.
I know what you mean about new tyres, I used the -2' rear D block and the 4' toe in pills to get 2' toe in at the rear - that really help the change of direction when running cactus tyres.

m3rcfh

iTrader: (4)

That's great advice, I've been wondering how to get the Cactus to have less foward bite... I will try that and see if it works for the blocks also! Looking for a good consistent option for practice tire, as buying prisms every week is going to get me kicked out of the house.

So I was going to play with weights next, that's a good starting point, really appreciate the help!
Is it even worth of trying brass kick shim or brass pivot block for stock astro setup? I have the impression that it would be too much for stock if I move the battery foward, electronics + servo weights. Also worth mentioning that I run 3200mah Team Orion batteries, so they are very light...

Frank Root

iTrader: (25)

I haven't run a ton on astro, but on carpet, I run the battery as far forward as it can go, and a 50g brass front pivot.

m3rcfh

iTrader: (4)

I'm still having issues setting up the slipper clutch... I switched to the TLR gear diff over the weekend, and started from slipper nut flush with the bolt and worked all my way to fully tightened.. the slipper still slips. The pads are new, geared 27/72, Reedy S-plus 17.5 motor.

Is it possible that my slipper spring is toast? I haven't been able to troubleshoot it myself. I can't imagine anything else on the drivetrain slipping... I can see the spur turning when I hit the throttle, it does a low pitch noise. Maybe it's time to go with the direct drive upgrade

jmitchell

iTrader: (3)

Are the slipper plates rotating? If no then the slipper is slipping, if yes its something else.

m3rcfh

iTrader: (4)

I will check on that when I get home today, thanks for the tip! What else could be slipping though? With the gear diff there, I can't picture what else would be slipping... and if the plates are not moving, what do I need new to fix it? New slipper spring?
Sorry if these questions are obvious, just got into the race kits recently and the 4.0 is my first buggy.

Edit: Found the culprit, one of the out driver set screw wasn't fully tightened. Slipper working like a charm now