Rocka Rolla

I bought a nice used 22 4.0 off eBay to race later this spring at the HobbyPlex here in Omaha. It came completely set up for carpet, which means basically rebuilding the entire buggy from front to back.

It came with the HRC aluminum front pivot, which is a nice piece. The front pivot supposedly "...allows for a smoother front end feel for increase stability and an easier to drive vehicle." Now I'm all about smooth and stable, so I'd like to leave it in and return all the other parts to a standard dirt setup. After looking over half a dozen of the online setup sheets, here's what I ended up with:

VLA: short
Shocks: 32.5/2 x 1.6/LF Red/2-Middle
Spindle: B/2mm spacer
Ack Ball Stud: 1mm / arm:#3
Trail: 3mm
Camber Link: 1-B / no inner spacer

What do you think the relationship between the high roll center front pivot AND removing the inner camber link height spacers will be? Seems like moving the inner hinge pin UP, while moving the inner camber link DOWN should sorta cancel each other out.

I'm sure I'm missing something.

Robert
Omaha, Nebraska

scr8pn4205

When using this spindle TLR=dremel lol. Its been a while since i ran one. So far its a nice kit

Team Pink

iTrader: (20)

Thanks Bill! I miss onroad occasionally but have had no real interest to go back to it. As for the bulkheads I find that rather interesting. I have had the same bulkhead on my car for months that is also dremeled for clearance with the servo back.

I will let my dad know you said hi!

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

Think that I broke a bulkhead one time on my B6 leading up to getting the 22 4.0. Must add that Whip It currently has a rhythm section on its back stretch that we double-double-single. And it's pretty easy to "face plant" the car in this area of the track...LOL

tipperjackson

iTrader: (16)

!

Caveman01

It's been awhile since I've visited and seeing all the posts here I'm just going to ask for help with my ride height. The lowest I can get my rear ride height is about 24mm I want to be at 22. I've moved the lower shocks out all the way and top all in. I just don't know where to go from here. This is for med to high bite clay track. Any other suggestions?

Ekul61

For a newbie Buying my first kit for indoor clay. Which vehicle is easier to Control (steering and jumping) B6 or 22.40 thx thx

BucketheadJedi

The 22 4.0 has more rear traction and is generally easier to drive no mater what your experience level. Both of my sons and I have 22 4.0s and have been very happy with them. Great cars and they come ready to race, no need to buy a bunch of hop ups.

Ekul61

Thx I believe the 4.0 is the ticket

Ekul61

Being somewhat new. Would you you recommend the sr or the 22 4.0 kit. Haven’t ever raced . But might in a couple months

tony montana

iTrader: (76)

That depends if you plan on running stock or mod. If stock definitely the spec racer.

tony montana

iTrader: (76)

This is what’s great about TLR, the cars do not need a bunch of option parts.

Ekul61

The guy building the kit at first said “buy the sr. With a few extra parts.” Then he said “ if your not going to race for awhile. Get the 4.0 and you can change it for stock class racing later”. So I’m a little confused, as I respect the losi sponsored guy I’m paying to build the kit. Any other thoughts? Thx.
On clay

rayzcar

iTrader: (23)

The SR should be a strong consideration if running stock 17.5 on dirt/clay.

If running mod or on turf/carpet, the regular 4.0 is the only choice.

If running 17.5 on turf/carpet, check with the locals to see if the lightened SR components are durable enough.

MrLean

iTrader: (17)

If you're a first time racer, I'd get the regular 4.0 strictly from a driveline durability standpoint. It has beefier outdrives and a slippper to help with throttle control.