glennmathias

iTrader: (5)

I have the aluminum front camber block. My car is a little heavy (1600g). I bought the Stiffezel part to try to reduce (some of) the weight.

Glenn

Roken

Something different in this photo. Looks like Exotek lay down trans, but 3.0 shock tower is shaved down. What does your shock tower look like?

urnotevenwrg2

iTrader: (1)

Good eye.

My car is actually a 3.0 with a long list of aftermarket parts. I got it last year in September, and only ever ran it with the Exotek lay down transmission. As you will see in the included pics, I've done a lot of things differently. Around the beginning of the year the AE factory drivers started running the rear shocks on the front of the arms on high grip clay. My car was really good, but I wanted to get more weight from behind the rear axles to in front of the rear axles. So after many hours of starring at my car I had a plan to make some aluminum brackets to adapt a carbon fiber shock tower that moved everything forward.

The tower is actually a B6 tall tower, and I use their wing mounts too. I could have made my own carbon fiber tower, but the AE tower was exactly what I needed. I didn't want to drill holes in my arms to mount the shocks forward, so I had to modify 2.0 arms to fit my 3.0. To get everything to line up(in addition to extensive dremel work), the 2.0 arms had to be mounted with the left arm on the right side, and the right arm on the left side. Now I run 4.0 arms because the geometry is better than the flipped 2.0 arms. Every other 4.0 part that would fit is used in this car now.

I had everything I needed to move everything forward. Everything but the time to sit down and make the brackets. Around that time TLR announced the 4.0. That was all the motivation I needed to make my brackets and move everything. So, my 3.99 was on track for about a month and a half before the 4.0 was out.

If anyone has any questions about why something is the way it is on my car, please feel free to ask about it.

chevmaro

iTrader: (25)

I stripped out the 1D hole in the stock plastic hub. I Have some Gen 1 aluminum hubs laying around. Any issue running these on the new car? Will the holes be in the same spot?

chevmaro

iTrader: (25)

1630 and loving it. Don't worry about it, lol.

Eli

iTrader: (15)

When i first built my 4.0 it was a tank, i liked it but i eventually put a thin battery pack in it and it slowly got lighter and lighter and I liked the benefits from the lighter car mostly from the thin pack. Currently my 4.0 is right above minimum weight and i like it a lot. I do have alot of ti stuff but i believe by just running a thin pack, removing the battery strap and hold down, and running 13 or 14 gauge wire and not having excessively long wires from the esc to the motor and battery you can get around 1530-1540 which is a good weight and still have a brass C block. Just in case you guys were wondering how easy it can be done.

glennmathias

iTrader: (5)

Thanks.

What battery do you use? How much does it weight?

Glenn

fivepointnine

iTrader: (15)

1525 for me with a LCG Protek battery, 3.0 bimetal pucks, Exotek top shaft, slipper eliminator and 69t spur, poly pinion, shaved diff gear and proline LW elite body. So nothing super major or expensive to get me down to that weight. I could save more if I went thinner gauge wiring and titanium turnbuckles. I am also running 25g between the motor and transmission housing.

glennmathias

iTrader: (5)

I guess that is for 17.5.

I'm a mod (6.5) carpet driver. I am debating strength of aluminum/no flex and heavy weight vs. plastic/flex and lighter weight.

With the aluminum, I need to put the battery all the way back, and put 32g of weight in the rear to get the correct weight distribution.

Funny enough, I have already removed the battery holder to get to 1600g.
Glenn

Roken

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Roken

[QUOTE=urnotevenwrg2;15115383]Good eye.

My car is actually a 3.0 with a long list of aftermarket parts. I got it last year in September, and only ever ran it with the Exotek lay down transmission. As you will see in the included pics, I've done a lot of things differently. Around the beginning of the year the AE factory drivers started running the rear shocks on the front of the arms on high grip clay. My car was really good, but I wanted to get more weight from behind the rear axles to in front of the rear axles. So after many hours of starring at my car I had a plan to make some aluminum brackets to adapt a carbon fiber shock tower that moved everything forward.

The tower is actually a B6 tall tower, and I use their wing mounts too. I could have made my own carbon fiber tower, but the AE tower was exactly what I needed. I didn't want to drill holes in my arms to mount the shocks forward, so I had to modify 2.0 arms to fit my 3.0. To get everything to line up(in addition to extensive dremel work), the 2.0 arms had to be mounted with the left arm on the right side, and the right arm on the left side. Now I run 4.0 arms because the geometry is better than the flipped 2.0 arms. Every other 4.0 part that would fit is used in this car now.

I had everything I needed to move everything forward. Everything but the time to sit down and make the brackets. Around that time TLR announced the 4.0. That was all the motivation I needed to make my brackets and move everything. So, my 3.99 was on track for about a month and a half before the 4.0 was out.

If anyone has any questions about why something is the way it is on my car, please feel free to ask about it.

Pretty cool. I like tinkering like that. Thanks for the reply.

Eli

iTrader: (15)

Orion 3800, the spec says 155grams on them.

Eli

iTrader: (15)

If it’s the hub that I believe it is since I don’t think they have changed then yes the holes should line up, I believe it eliminates either the front or rear row depending on what side you put them on and also the most inner hole which no one really uses.
I believe they’re about 7 grams heavier and the added stiffness may take away some grip possibly. Technically the car should feel a little different. I have ran them in the past but can’t say I noticed a difference In handling.

Oldbutlearning

iTrader: (1)

So I was doing a fast check and noticed that suddenly my steering arm is rubbing on the servo horn. First thought the servo arm came loose..no luck. I assume that this is a god indication that the chassis is bent?? Can they be straightened or just easier to get another chassis? If new chassis where/who might have a one?

glennmathias

iTrader: (5)

Ok, I see Dakota uses it for clay.

Most carpet drivers use something like it, but put 50g under the battery. I think it is more for creating a Lower Center of Gravity then reducing weight.

Most carpet drivers run aluminum everything, (while I have not seen the actual weight of their cars) I would assume that their cars are north of 1550g.

Glenn