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TLR 22 4.0

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Old 03-22-2017, 06:19 AM   -   Wikipost
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Old 05-27-2017, 08:27 PM
  #616  
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Originally Posted by Medicinal Coma
I have the same problem with my front sway bar piece.
I just put on the front and rear with the same issue.
I used the small set screws from the rear MOUNT for the front ball mount,
then used the screw from the front ball mount to use in the rear mount.
The rear sway bar kit did not have any issues.
I hope this helps you.
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Old 05-27-2017, 08:54 PM
  #617  
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Thank you RacingFam. Will give it a shot.....
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Old 05-28-2017, 05:36 AM
  #618  
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I ended up using 3x12. Works fine. Its as if the arm holes are not long enough to take 14mm

Originally Posted by Jason B
Same here... I had to buy new arms because one got destroyed while mounting the shocks. Literally the first hex I've ever stripped.
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Old 05-28-2017, 09:40 AM
  #619  
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Originally Posted by crowie03@gmail.
Just built mine today. My bags were also mislabeled but my biggest gripe was stripping 4 hex bolt heads even with grease on the bolts. 2 were ones going into the gear box case from under chassis and other 2 going into rear arms. 14mm long ones. The plastic is way too hard and it makes it impossible to get the hex bolts in. Absolute pain in the a$$. Yes the tip on my hudy is new..
I think the alloy hex bolts are not the best quality. I have never had this happen to me before with other brand kits.
Not happy...
Have built 4 of these kits and have had zero issues getting the screws into the arms.
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Old 05-28-2017, 10:36 AM
  #620  
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Well, I've got to say, this has been one of the worst builds I've encountered in a long time. I think it's a combination of poor choice of plastics, and the hardware. I've greased nearly every screw, yet some are so tight, I question whether or not I'll ever be able to remove them without either stripping the screw head, or snapping it off. Others were fine going in, until I realized the plastic stripped. The plastic just gave out, with no feedback indicating the screw was seating. This happened with the rear hubs when screwing down the ball studs (by hand). The ball cups also pop off easily when trying to adjust the turnbuckles. I've built nearly every Losi vehicle released since 1992, can't remember having this much trouble with any others. I bought this car to replace my B5M, as I race on a medium to low grip track. While I expect the TLR to be easier to drive, I'm very concerned about it's reliability. I've raced the B5M for 4 years and haven't had so much as a ball cup pop off. I've had great luck with Losi in the past, I'm hoping the issues get resolved sooner than later.
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Old 05-28-2017, 10:50 AM
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I don't ever thread anything with a screw. I tap everything first on all cars and then fit is wonderful. I spend lots of time on ball cups. I slowly thread a ball cup all the way down the turnbuckle and then undo it all the way off. I'll chase it down and back off over and over again, stopping to let them cool off. Maybe 10 times. They turn smoothly, and are easy to adjust. I don't care who made the kit. It's my standard technique and works flawlessly each time. Assembly time is longer but a good car isn't assembled quickly. 4-5 hours is average.

Originally Posted by Sorcerer001
Well, I've got to say, this has been one of the worst builds I've encountered in a long time. I think it's a combination of poor choice of plastics, and the hardware. I've greased nearly every screw, yet some are so tight, I question whether or not I'll ever be able to remove them without either stripping the screw head, or snapping it off. Others were fine going in, until I realized the plastic stripped. The plastic just gave out, with no feedback indicating the screw was seating. This happened with the rear hubs when screwing down the ball studs (by hand). The ball cups also pop off easily when trying to adjust the turnbuckles. I've built nearly every Losi vehicle released since 1992, can't remember having this much trouble with any others. I bought this car to replace my B5M, as I race on a medium to low grip track. While I expect the TLR to be easier to drive, I'm very concerned about it's reliability. I've raced the B5M for 4 years and haven't had so much as a ball cup pop off. I've had great luck with Losi in the past, I'm hoping the issues get resolved sooner than later.
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Old 05-28-2017, 12:04 PM
  #622  
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Originally Posted by Sorcerer001
Well, I've got to say, this has been one of the worst builds I've encountered in a long time. I think it's a combination of poor choice of plastics, and the hardware. I've greased nearly every screw, yet some are so tight, I question whether or not I'll ever be able to remove them without either stripping the screw head, or snapping it off. Others were fine going in, until I realized the plastic stripped. The plastic just gave out, with no feedback indicating the screw was seating. This happened with the rear hubs when screwing down the ball studs (by hand). The ball cups also pop off easily when trying to adjust the turnbuckles. I've built nearly every Losi vehicle released since 1992, can't remember having this much trouble with any others. I bought this car to replace my B5M, as I race on a medium to low grip track. While I expect the TLR to be easier to drive, I'm very concerned about it's reliability. I've raced the B5M for 4 years and haven't had so much as a ball cup pop off. I've had great luck with Losi in the past, I'm hoping the issues get resolved sooner than later.
Assembly tolerance's are very tight. Hub ballstuds are easy to over tighten, i did it to one of mine. They are snug in there though and don't come off after a few weeks of racing. If you need to, you can put a drip of ca glue in the ballstud hole on the hub.

After racing the car a few weeks i have had the tranny in and out twice, moved ballstuds around, tried several shock oils. After a few times removing things they fit real good.
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Old 05-28-2017, 12:07 PM
  #623  
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With the ballcups I found that if you stick a bunch of black grease in the thread hole of the turnbuckle they will be smooth as butter.

Although now that the car been driven a lot I have a ton of slop in front spindle inserts. Basically the insert is moving back and forth no matter how tight the axle bearing screw is. I was told that the only way to combat this is to super glue the inserts together in the spindle but then if you want to tune it you have to buy a whole new spindle set.

Crazy how this car is super durable but has wear and tear in the most random places.

Although in the grand scheme of things I'd rather have ballcups popping off all day long vs breaking arms and shock towers. I see this often with B6 owners.
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Old 05-28-2017, 12:30 PM
  #624  
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Threading my ball cups was cake - a little grease and was able to thread them with my fingers. But the cups themselves pop off the ball stud too easily. I agree that I'd rather pop a ball cup than break an arm, but they should be able to take a moderate hit. I'm sure the car will work out in the end, just disappointed that these issues are acceptable in a premium race kit these days.
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Old 05-28-2017, 12:49 PM
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For what it's worth, as FredSwain has mentioned. I pre thread all of my screws with a 2.5mm Cap Head screw so the head of the screw has some meat to it, and use grease on each one, I have built 3 of these kits as of late and not had one problem, except for my front sway bar issue.

Now I do realize that is of no consolation to those of you who have had troubles, I'm just throwing it out there for future reference.

Last edited by Medicinal Coma; 05-28-2017 at 01:01 PM.
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Old 05-28-2017, 01:29 PM
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So my steering column now has a ton of slop as to be expected. If I change out the whole steering assembly for the aluminum one will the slop never come back or is that just the nature of the beast and just stick with the plastic one and replace it all every couple of months?
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Old 05-28-2017, 03:23 PM
  #627  
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No issues here with screws. Use black grease and use a nice hex driver by hand and no issues will be had. You are either overnighting the screw using a bad driver or trying to use an electric screwdriver. 20 plus years building jets for every class and from every brand and never had an issue like described here. Sorry for you folks having bad luck I really am but maybe it's not the kit or the screws that are to blame
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Old 05-28-2017, 06:02 PM
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I am going to be another one to agree with people here having issues with getting some of the screws into the arms, specifically the screws that mount the shocks to the arms. I just about completed the build last night except for a few screws that refuse go in any further (without a electric screwdriver). I haven't stripped anything out yet but this should not be this difficult to assemble, I have good tools, and I used grease as instructed.

I am coming back into this after being out for about 5 years, I have had Losi cars going all the way back to the JRX2 (first buggy) and NOTHING has given me more issues during the assembly then this thing. I am beginning to question if I picked the right buggy platform. If something major goes down on race day right now I feel like I might have a hard time replacing something and putting it all back together in time for the next heat on a typical club night. I'm going to head to the track tomorrow and try and complete and test it out but first impressions are not exactly what I had hoped for.
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Old 05-28-2017, 08:02 PM
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Yeah I had to go with the 12mm screws for the rear arms when the shocks were mounted on the front.
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Old 05-28-2017, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by hollywood3705
No issues here with screws. Use black grease and use a nice hex driver by hand and no issues will be had. You are either overnighting the screw using a bad driver or trying to use an electric screwdriver. 20 plus years building jets for every class and from every brand and never had an issue like described here. Sorry for you folks having bad luck I really am but maybe it's not the kit or the screws that are to blame
30+ years building kits from every major rc brand, this isn't user error. Not quite sure what jets have to do with rc cars, but, cool, I guess. No electric screwdrivers used, all Hudy and other high quality drivers.
Really no need to be insulting - just trying to get to the bottom of these issues. If you've been in the hobby for 20 years and haven't encountered a single manufacturing flaw, you're incredibly lucky.
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