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TLR 22 4.0

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Old 10-09-2017, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by HeavyD99 View Post
It will be interesting to watch the 4.0 at the IOCC this week in Las Vegas. I'm not sure if it's the buggies themselves designed more for dirt and clay or a lack of market share or access to the actual products, but TLR buggies don't seem to be popular in the EOS series and I'm keen to see how they fair at this race in the hands of North American Pro's. Xray, Yokomo and Schumacher have more experience on carpet, and AE have a nice copy of the Yok and great drivers, it'll be an important event for TLR to showcase their buggies.
The EOS has a spec tire and rim. TLR runs a different offset front wheel and does not work.
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Old 10-09-2017, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by jpp2422 View Post
So here is a new one for me. Just finishing up my 22 4.0 build. Spur and pinion move / spin when power is applied but rear axles / drivetrain/ wheels don't budge. They spin freely when moved by hand etc so they are not bound up. So far I have...

1.Rebuilt the diff twice. Each time all gears move / spur moves the rear diff, but when the gear box is installed back on the buggy it goes back to not moving when the spur gear is spun.

2. Gone from very tight to very loose slipper. no change

3. Gone from very tight to very loose diff screw. no change

Any ideas? Thanks!

JP
diff or idler inserts not matched correctly? Diff in clay position, idler in +3 position.
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Old 10-09-2017, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by jpp2422 View Post
So here is a new one for me. Just finishing up my 22 4.0 build. Spur and pinion move / spin when power is applied but rear axles / drivetrain/ wheels don't budge. They spin freely when moved by hand etc so they are not bound up. So far I have...

1.Rebuilt the diff twice. Each time all gears move / spur moves the rear diff, but when the gear box is installed back on the buggy it goes back to not moving when the spur gear is spun.

2. Gone from very tight to very loose slipper. no change

3. Gone from very tight to very loose diff screw. no change

Any ideas? Thanks!

JP
Make sure you put the screws in the right spot had a buddy put screws in wrong locations and it dimpled the case had to shave them out.
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Old 10-10-2017, 08:47 AM
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Working on finishing up my 4.0-Spec Racer build. I race 17.5 stock on astro turf at my local track. Noticed that the Spec Racer manual stock setup sheet is somewhat different than the 4.0 Carpet/Astro setup sheet. For example, 4.0 manual has a ride height of 16mm while the 4.0SR has 23mm. So which manual setup sheet should I follow for stock astro racing, 4.0 or 4.0SR?
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Old 10-10-2017, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Frank Root View Post
Frank, is there a set up posted from that Denver race?
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Old 10-10-2017, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Phugazi View Post
Working on finishing up my 4.0-Spec Racer build. I race 17.5 stock on astro turf at my local track. Noticed that the Spec Racer manual stock setup sheet is somewhat different than the 4.0 Carpet/Astro setup sheet. For example, 4.0 manual has a ride height of 16mm while the 4.0SR has 23mm. So which manual setup sheet should I follow for stock astro racing, 4.0 or 4.0SR?
The 4.0 astro setup is $$$$
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Old 10-10-2017, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by MrLean View Post
The 4.0 astro setup is $$$$
Okay, good to know...thank you!
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Old 10-10-2017, 11:01 AM
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What's everyone running for trail inserts. Tried 2 trail with 2 Ackerman plates and has a ton of steering. A little too twitchy. However on my clay car I recall the 3 trail setting to be barely enough and had to use the 1 Ackerman plate. But that's clay. What's everyone using for trail on carpet?


Originally Posted by MrLean View Post
The 4.0 astro setup is $$$$
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Old 10-10-2017, 10:02 PM
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Looking for more forward bite on a dry and slick/glazed clay track. Would it be good to lower antisquat or to try running standard parts instead of stiffezell? Any other ideas?
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Old 10-10-2017, 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by dbracn View Post
Looking for more forward bite on a dry and slick/glazed clay track. Would it be good to lower antisquat or to try running standard parts instead of stiffezell? Any other ideas?
I haven't tried it but read on here that people have good results by moving the rear hubs forwards.
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Old 10-11-2017, 04:24 AM
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Originally Posted by dbracn View Post
Looking for more forward bite on a dry and slick/glazed clay track. Would it be good to lower antisquat or to try running standard parts instead of stiffezell? Any other ideas?
Run the non-stiffezell rear arms and 1* antisquat.
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Old 10-11-2017, 02:32 PM
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Dakotah's Setup from the outdoor TLR Cup at MHOR:

http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Fil...2017_09_30.pdf
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Old 10-11-2017, 04:58 PM
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Frank has any of the team guys posted any setups for the nats?
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Old 10-11-2017, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by dbracn View Post
Looking for more forward bite on a dry and slick/glazed clay track. Would it be good to lower antisquat or to try running standard parts instead of stiffezell? Any other ideas?
When I need more forward bite I went to 1.5 anti-squat and 3.5 toe inserts from normal setup of 2 anti-squat and 3 toe inserts.

Ed

Last edited by Tanis103; 10-12-2017 at 07:45 PM.
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Old 10-11-2017, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Tanis103 View Post
When I need more forward bite I went to 1.5 anti-squat and 2.5 toe inserts from normal setup of 2 anti-squat and 3 toe inserts.

Ed
????
less rear toe gives you less forward bite
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