amospetrie

iTrader: (14)

Hey all. I'm finally getting around to building my losi 22 2.0.. need some advice... I been a sct basher but want to build a buggy for the track.. I'm going with a trackstar 17.5 motor.. any suggestions on how amp esc I should run.. I want to leave room if I decide later down the road to go with a bigger motor.. also what's a good starting point for pinion gear. Last thing batteries.... how many mah and dispurst should I go... 2s.. thanks

Davidka

iTrader: (86)

Get a Hobbywing Justock, unless you are sure you want to get a modified motor soon. You can always sell it for a fair price later. Get a 70T spur gear and pinion gears from 29-34T.

Battery = shorty Lipo, most of them are pretty good. Turnigy NanoTech are a great price. Don't over think it.

Advice on speed controls: Don't make a purchase on how many "amps" an ESC is rated for. They will have different rated motor limits, which is more important to your actual use case.

greener74

iTrader: (12)

Hobbywing justock or xr10 are good. And they will both run a 13.5 down the road which is plenty fast. 4200-4600 batteries I run 2s shorty Turnigy A spec or Nanotech ultimate's. And for gearing. 70/30 is a good place to start. I run 70/35 in my 3.0

amospetrie

iTrader: (14)

Thanks for the info.. what about discharge on the lipos.. I see a lot of guys running 100 seems high for 2wd buggy.. so the 60 amp hobbywing is the way to go?? I was thinking 80 amps... so is this the right esc.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/hobbywing-xerun-xr10-justock-1-10-sensored-brushless-esc-hwa30112000/p464566?gclid=COylgbaYhtICFQwQaQod6FICkQ

greener74

iTrader: (12)

I wouldn't buy some crummy 20c or 35c pack. But you don't need 100c either. And that hobbywing controller is the one you want. Make sure to get a program box for it too. If you look at the specs on it, it will list the motor limit. I would pay more attention to that then the amp rating. I think bashers are more interested in amp ratings, they tend to drive harder. Big tires, big motors, big batteries and high amp controllers. I run a $28 trackstsr sportsman 60a on my 13.5 buggy with no fan, and it runs fine. Just gets a little warm.

amospetrie

iTrader: (14)

How do you like the trackstar esc I been thinking about getting a few of there 80 waterproof escs for bashing sct

greener74

iTrader: (12)

The one I have is no longer available in the US and the European warehouse will not ship here. I don't know about the 80A waterproof. I only run sendored controllers, but the gen II's are good. I would avoid the 80a trackstar turbo. The 80a waterproof is probably perfect for bashing.

amospetrie

iTrader: (14)

Just picked up the hobbywing juststock xr10 at lhs. Wow it's tiny.. lol. Ty everyone

rayzcar

iTrader: (23)

Didn't see it mentioned in your thread but are you running the shorty lipo from front to back?

In process of trading my 22 2.0. Originally, I had triangular weights on each side but it drove better for me after I did the sideways shorty mod and moved the esc from on top of the battery to behind the receiver and servo. However, the way I did it meant I could only fit low profile shorties with low profile (90 degree) connectors.

Just thought I would throw it out there as something to think about before you spend any money on new lipos.

amospetrie

iTrader: (14)

Thanks I never though about that.. right now it's set up lipo front to back. I'm new to the racing scene.. this is my first race build. I'm running mid motor and gonna use an esc shelf above the battery. Like I said this is my first race build so any pointers are greatly appreciated.

ZEe_NYC

iTrader: (78)

I run an Orion 'stock' esc with a beat 2 year old schuur motor and I do fairly well.

Build the kit to stock specs, get the correct tires/inserts/traction compound for your track and you'll be totally fine.

Make sure you build your shocks correctly. The 2.0 is still a highly capable car in the right hands.

amospetrie

iTrader: (14)

I bought a hobbywing juststock esc and trackstar 17.5 motor.. starting with a 28 pinion and going from there seemed like a good starting point with the pinion.. what turn motor do you run in it?
Again ty for the advice

altitudelow

iTrader: (3)

I've had good luck with the following cheapo equipment in my buggies:

Trackstar 80A ESC (ROAR Approved)
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-...-approved.html

Trackstar 17.5T motor (ROAR)
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-...-approved.html

You can get both of them on ebay used from time to time (shipping from USA too) or get them new and wait a week, not bad. That's a power system for 70 bucks, and you can add a decent servo from them for another 20 or so. Turnigy 4200 shorties are like $29 too, so $120 for all the electronics besides your receiver including a lipo.

ZEe_NYC

iTrader: (78)

I run a 17.5 motor and it's geared 31-70...

But stock between 29 teeth and 34 teeth. Every motor has a different sweet spot. My motor is VERY torquey, so I geared up (31/32 tooth pinion) to make up for the lack of top end.

rayzcar

iTrader: (23)

If new, might want to keep motor at default timing and adjust gearing at first. However, as you get cleaner laps and are looking for more speed, might want to figure out the best timing setting for your motor. Some vids show how using a voltmeter or motor analyzer or else can have somebody figure out for you. Once timing is set, then make final adjustments to gearing. Otherwise, if you have to gear down (smaller pinion, bigger spur) to improve acceleration or hit a bigger jump, you can get a little top speed back by turning up the timing a small amount. Personally, I just set it to a few degrees below max and seems to work out alright for me (motor analyzer usually shows timing setting on can is a few degrees off anyways). Once you have the timing and gearing right for your track/layout/conditions/etc, then will want to temp your motor. If getting too hot, especially since motor is making max power, then will need to slap a fan on it--although you should be temping after you make any gearing changes, the track layout changes, running practice sessions that are longer than typical heats/mains, or temperature is warmer than when you last checked, etc.--to ensure not overheating and killing the motor/esc.