Frank Root

iTrader: (25)

The laydown idler is different/larger. The rear shock shaft is new. The shock body is a 22-4 rear shock body, it'll have 45.0mm etched on it. Rest of the shock parts are the same.

Roken

When I total up everything to upgrade I'm only $70+ from a new kit. Problem is I haven't even finished building my 3.0.

Frank Root

iTrader: (25)

Did you get the chassis (2mm long), and the rear shock bodies and shock shafts (shorter)

RazorRC

iTrader: (5)

Yah, I have the 4.0 camber block, 22-4 shock bodies and I'm coming in at $220 to upgrade.

ICBeloitRacer

iTrader: (7)

Man, I JUST got a 3.0 from another member on here, mostly because the one he was selling was nearly new and sold with a bunch of spares for just less than a NIB kit. If I'd known the 4.0 was coming out, I'd probably have waited.

Roken

Yeah got all that figured in. But now due to one of your posts I can subtract the rear shock bodies because I have extras of that size.

i_r_beej

Hey all, I just got a new 22T 3.0 with a 3-gear laydown transmission.
I'm having some difficulty getting the motor to fit properly. It's a Hobbywing 3650 G2 13.5t Justock. The mounting holes on the motor don't seem to line up properly with the slots in the motor plate, no matter how I rotate the motor. Either the top or bottom motor plate slot and motor mounting holes are off my about .5mm.

I can install both screws, but they bind on the motor plate slots and cause the motor to move when tightening the screws down. This makes setting mess a frustrating experience.

Anyone else here experience that?

Jack302

iTrader: (22)

Does the 3.0 body fit on the 4.0?

Roken

You would have to mount the shocks on the rear of the arms for sure. Chassis is 2mm longer so maybe you would have to play with the mounting holes.

RandyJones

iTrader: (26)

We had same issue with our Fantom motors when changing truck over to laydown. I took chassis to work and milled out the area under the motor and fixed the problem. And if you run the brass anti squat block with laydown, the "V" part of the block needs milled out to clear transmission.

Frank Root

iTrader: (25)

FYI - The Exotek anti-squat block will fit with no modifications also, as an option.

WallyRC

Could you try a couple 0.5 or 1 mm aluminum washers under the waterfall brace and motormount brace on chasis to help clear? That might work if you can't Mill chassis.

I had to put a 0.5 mm washer under aluminum motor mount brace on chasis because my spur was rubbing ever so slightly.

I am using the exotek rear front brass weight/hanger w/o issues.

WallyRC

Think I figured something out that may help us all. Most people I hear are having issues with the curved ball cups on the steering arm. With the "low mount" ball stud the cups bind near full compression. I switched out the ball studs with standard height ball studs and they move free at full compression. I'm sure this may help and prevent them from popping off and breaking. I put a 0.5 mm washer underneath instead of the 1 mm.

I hope this helps. Don't know when I will get to the track but hopefully soon. Let me know what you guys think.

caioz1jp

Sounds like a design issue. Had a similar issue with my 22SCT 2.0 when I converted to mid motor. I had to lift the trans ever so slightly to get my motor to fit.

TLR is really disappointing me lately.
Nothing against you Frank. You are amazing and offering us support and suggestions to get the most out of our models.

i_r_beej

Thanks. Nice to know it's not just me! And thanks for the notice about the brass pivot/anti-squat block-- i was thinking about buying that!