motorcitymatt

iTrader: (3)

Good to hear you are getting good results!

Did you get the ball diff in there yet?

wyd

iTrader: (51)

Yes I did get the ball diff in. Made the car more predictable from middle out of the corners. It wasn't so erratic and power out of the corner was a little smoother for me as well but a little of that is my AE slipper pads are breaking in and working great for me.

I'm very close to the Orloski's Reedy setup from 2017 and especially with the shock oils, springs and pistons. I'm at 500wt from and 350 rear with red rear springs and green front springs. Huge difference in my car as well as I took that weight out of the front of my buggy that was under the servo. I'm going to get the 4 degree toe block setup to mess with as well as I'm running the stock 3 degree rear strap. My other setups are pretty close but I'm a little different on the my shims on the rear hubs and on that camber like by 1 mm more on each part of that. His setup along with the Tony Newland's help have been great. Tony's knowledge of the overall and what some adjustments do that I was fuzzy on really has been a huge help in the massive turn around in my car a my home track. Not use to running a lay down type tranny car and how aggressive they can be and especially this week are track had more traction that it had in years. Also not really use to ever needed to run that high of oil in the front of my buggies before.

Scott R

iTrader: (49)

Looking for gearing recommendations for a KC, 17.5 Tekin Spec-R Blinky and smallish Gray Ozite Carpet track with low14 sec. Lap Times Straight is approx. 75ft long

motorcitymatt

iTrader: (3)

It's getting harder to answer questions about gearing in spec classes as motor manufacturers are starting to take different approaches to power band (torque / rpm). The Spec-R is a perfect example. It comes out of the box with a sticker on it saying "use less teeth on your pinion" then usual.

With a typical 17.5 these days on a smaller track with my KC I like to be in the 5.6-6.0:1 range for FDR. With that motor I am guessing you will want to be at least 6.5:1. Ask the Tekin folks what they recommend just to make sure.

AMessy

iTrader: (39)

I run 81/24 with that same motor in my KC. Track is a tight, medium traction clay. When I had a motiv MC2 in the same car I ran 76/26.

If there is a long straight to sweeper I look at going up a tooth on the pinion, otherwise I keep the Tekin at 81/24

McKrakken

I'm getting back into racing after too many years to admit. I'm going to run 2wd stock 17.5 on a mixed carpet track. I am not sure what the exact carpet it, but it's black and felt feeling, along with green astro turf on the features and jumps. The track layout changes monthly. The next switch they are looking at putting in a very technical track that takes the laptimes from 16s to 22 or so.

The predominant car here is the B6 running schumacher pins.

I'm torn.. I see the value in running the B6 like everyone else, but - it's just like everyone else! One guy has a brand new KC that looked awesome and he said it was awesome. didn't get to talk much beyond that, but it got me thinking.

I'm hearing that the B6 run very well box stock, how about the KC? Is the box stock setup pretty good for the KC on carpet?

I realize I'll have to stock some of my own parts, but that's not a huge deal. I like the idea of being a bit different. And, if I can convince my brother to get one, then it'll be easier to share parts.

So.. how easy is it to get the KC to hang with the B6?

oldernoob

iTrader: (1)

KC was built, designed for and excels on carpet or Astro. If you can get past everyone else running a B6 and keep a stash of the usual spares, you should be good.

I run sway bars occasionally front, rear or both, but that's the only additional stuff I've bought (and the core alloy servo arm) for performance. I run a carbon chassis which cuts weight but mainly I have one because I like carbon chassis! You don't *need* it and some guys say to use the alloy kit one.

Basically, you won't need a ton of hop ups out of the box. The kit gives you a choice of 4 motor positions with belts included for all of them.
Gear diff, carbon shock towers, innovative design are all included.

McKrakken

Thanks for the response!

I'm definitely contemplating going with the KC. It may come down to which is in stock first! :P

Tuning-wise, is the box stock setup pretty good? My only real concern here is that if It's not great out of the box, I don't have resources at the track to help get it screaming - they are all B6 guys. I don't mind doing my research (that's why I'm here) and learning, but that will of course be a long process.

I actually like the idea of being different - as long as I'm not embarrassing myself! lol I want to be competitive and get people thinking about adopting another car - then maybe our shop will stock parts for it.

Is there a list of recommended spares to keep on hand? Also, are there any immediate alloy upgrades that should be made?

Thanks!

wyd

iTrader: (51)

Not sure your location by my friends local shop has a new KC in stock at Pit STop Hobbies in Mt Joy Pa and the pricing is lower than any place I see on the internet. Might be worth checking into it. They are open 12-8 except Thurs 3-8. Ask for Joey and tell him Brian sent yeah.

wyd

iTrader: (51)

After finally getting my KC working pretty good at my home I can't wait tonight to go and practice with the car and work on dialing my setup in even more since I'm on the right track. I'm really motivated now to work on it since I see huge improvements from the week before plus knowing that it will also make the car even better at the other two indoor tracks I been going to every few weeks. 2nd half of the indoor season is going to be fun.

McKrakken

Thanks! I appreciate that.. I'll give them a call.

I just need to decide if I want the stability of the B6 with the parts support at my track and that it's the most common, or going my own direction with the Schumacher.

oldernoob

iTrader: (1)

Sometimes the most sensible option isn't the most exciting! It is a risk to run a car on your own at a track. I'm the only one at my local and if I break I can't borrow anything. All I'll say is that this car can be as easy and stable to drive or as edgy as you like.
Good luck with whatever you choose, it's toy cars, fun whatever you run :-)

wyd

iTrader: (51)

At the shop I work and race at I'm the only one unless the owner from another shop I know comes and races with us and then he has a KD that he brings. I have always ran stuff that is not the norm and 95% of the time I'm happy I have done that. Sure I might of broke and not had something but overall its been worth it.

McKrakken

How are you finding the durability of the KC to be? I throw questions around in other threads and I hear I will go crazy with issues.. things breaking and lack of local support.

Obviously i will need to stock some basic parts.. which ones?

wyd

iTrader: (51)

I broke 1 rear A arm but that was totally my fault as I hit a steel beam at the shop so that wasn't the fault of the car and then I traction rolled last Sunday and broke a caster block as I flipped like 8 times and hit the wall of are building. Only other broke part was after a race I was walking around to get my car and the next group went on the stand and some dumb ass blasted my car from behind and broke a bottom shock end and that's it. I would say only the caster block was a standard racing issue with the broken part. This car don't break anymore than any other brand I have had. I'm very easy on my cars only breaking 1 or 2 parts in indoor season. I watch guys will all brands break weekly so if your one of those guys then this car will be like any other but I can't say it breaks more than the AE or Losi.