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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

05-13-2019, 06:33 AM - Wikipost

R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread

Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.

Last edit by: tobamiester

Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:

Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
Gear differentials (all 3)
Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
Reverse bellcrank steering system
Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
13mm big bore shocks
3.5mm shock shafts
Droop screws

Videos

Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:

Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.

Preference for Associated factory team pinions
Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
For comparison:
B64 is 2.47:1
22-4 is 2.4:1
YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels

B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Ryan Lutz Setups
Instruction Manual
EB410 Resources
Ryan Lutz IOCC blog
PT Oil CST conversion Chart
List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:

GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.
Harbor Freight 0.5mm - 3.0mm bit set * 2.1mm not included

Aftermarket Upgrades:

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Build Tips:

When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head
Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock
Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification
Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment
Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
More shock build tips here
Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.
When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.
Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings
Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494
Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

Joey A.

So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

-Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

-Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

-Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

-Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

-Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

-Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

Sorry for the shity grammar,
TJR

Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

Exotek Sway Bar Mount http://www.exotekracing.com/eb410-re...ar-mount-6061/

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05-31-2019, 06:19 PM

#5026

Tbuggy

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Quote:

Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK

swapping over to the M2C chassis and so far, not impressed. the skid plate didn't sit flush against the chassis (it didn't fully go into the machined relief for it). i had to dremel the skid plate some to get it to fit in the relief. also one of the tiny counter sunk screws that go in the skid plate was messed up and didn't go fully into the countersunk hole (not necessarily M2C's fault). luckily the kit came with an extra set of these screws so i was ok there. it seems that machining of the reliefs/pockets is either off, or just not well thought out. the back of the battery compartment that uses two screws, doesn't sit flush against the chassis or fit into a pocket at all. there is a pocket there that is machined, but this piece doesn't fit into it.

i went the M2C route for cost. the M2C option was $84, came with the B block and uses the stock A block. the tekno route would have cost $115 for the chassis and revised A and B blocks. get what you pay for i guess...

I didn't have a screw issue like you mentioned but yes the skid plate does stick out a touch. I just threw a skin over it and being I drive on a clay track I have noticed an issue at all. The battery hold down part didn't fit in the pocket like you mentioned, but with a little shave and a haircut (for the plastic part) it works as intended. It wasn't perfect but I think it is a nice was a good purchase...the ware on the chassis is supposed to be much better than the stock chassis, from what I heard. I haven't ran mine long enough to say yay or nay about that though.

05-31-2019, 06:27 PM

#5027

RC*PHREAK

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I’m not talking about the skid plate sticking out a bit further than the chassis. It still does that. That doesn’t concern me. Before I dremeled it, it wouldn’t go into the machined relief.

05-31-2019, 07:53 PM

#5028

Tbuggy

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Oh interesting...it sounds like something wasn't milled correctly or I wonder if the skid plate changed slightly? Mine popped in no problem, maybe reach out to them and see what they say?

05-31-2019, 07:55 PM

#5029

RC*PHREAK

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no issues with the rest of the installation. honestly for as much as we spend on these things, i'm kicking myself for saving $20. between the issues noted above and the lack of anodizing on the M2C, i wish i had just gone the tekno route...

05-31-2019, 07:56 PM

#5030

RC*PHREAK

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Tbuggy

Oh interesting...it sounds like something wasn't milled correctly or I wonder if the skid plate changed slightly? Mine popped in no problem, maybe reach out to them and see what they say?

nah, no need. a quick rip with the dremel (sanding stone) around all sides of the skid plate and it went in.

06-05-2019, 04:06 PM

#5031

chucko

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Hi guys......... What motor,? tekin of course. would you run on a large dirt loose lomy sometimes wet off road track out doors.. a 5.5 8.5 13.5 ? ......TIA

06-05-2019, 05:56 PM

#5032

Di_spencer

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Quote:

Originally Posted by chucko

Hi guys......... What motor,? tekin of course. would you run on a large dirt loose lomy sometimes wet off road track out doors.. a 5.5 8.5 13.5 ? ......TIA

Either a 5.5 or the Pro4 4600kv

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06-05-2019, 07:17 PM

#5033

Tbuggy

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I like the pro4 4600kv on my outdoor track I run at. It is designed more towards 1/8th scale though.

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06-05-2019, 08:17 PM

#5034

Di_spencer

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Tbuggy

I like the pro4 4600kv on my outdoor track I run at. It is designed more towards 1/8th scale though.

Oh shoot lol, I misread the title I've been flipping between the et410 and eb410 threads. For the eb I'd run between a 8.5 and a 5.5 or if you're running a spec class the 13.5. The 4600kv is great for the et but a little much for the eb

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06-05-2019, 09:34 PM

#5035

Tbuggy

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Originally Posted by Di_spencer

That made two of us...monkey see monkey do!! LOL

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06-06-2019, 07:23 AM

#5036

chucko

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OK Men I have a pro 4 new sitting with an rx8 thinking way to big.. a 1850 LOL way to big .... so I am going with the 5.5 tekin and an rx pro. thanks for your help

06-06-2019, 08:00 AM

#5037

Tbuggy

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Quote:

Originally Posted by chucko

OK Men I have a pro 4 new sitting with an rx8 thinking way to big.. a 1850 LOL way to big .... so I am going with the 5.5 tekin and an rx pro. thanks for your help

06-06-2019, 08:52 AM

#5038

RCSteveH

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Tbuggy

Is that a TEKNO HellCat? 😎

06-06-2019, 10:19 AM

#5039

chucko

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Quote:

Originally Posted by RCSteveH

Is that a TEKNO HellCat? 😎

OK where did you get the sper ? LOL what tooth and pinion Please ? is it an easy change over as the kit shows 80 something tooth....... thats Y the 8.5.... I wouldn't mind running the 4 pro motor..... trying to know what I need to order when pulling the trigger. to build it right. Thanks