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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

05-13-2019, 06:33 AM - Wikipost

R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread

Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.

Last edit by: tobamiester

Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:

Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
Gear differentials (all 3)
Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
Reverse bellcrank steering system
Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
13mm big bore shocks
3.5mm shock shafts
Droop screws

Videos

Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:

Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.

Preference for Associated factory team pinions
Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
For comparison:
B64 is 2.47:1
22-4 is 2.4:1
YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels

B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Ryan Lutz Setups
Instruction Manual
EB410 Resources
Ryan Lutz IOCC blog
PT Oil CST conversion Chart
List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:

GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.
Harbor Freight 0.5mm - 3.0mm bit set * 2.1mm not included

Aftermarket Upgrades:

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Build Tips:

When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head
Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock
Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification
Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment
Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
More shock build tips here
Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.
When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.
Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings
Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494
Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

Joey A.

So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

-Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

-Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

-Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

-Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

-Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

-Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

Sorry for the shity grammar,
TJR

Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

Exotek Sway Bar Mount http://www.exotekracing.com/eb410-re...ar-mount-6061/

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02-10-2019, 04:52 PM

#4951

kevinpratt823

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Quote:

Originally Posted by billdelong

been running XB4 wheels on mine for a while now, I actually run the SCT410 hexes on the front just to increase the front track width a pinch to help me settle the car on turf

SCT has 12mm hex, so do newer XB4, mine are 14mm hex.

02-10-2019, 05:25 PM

#4952

RCSteveH

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Anyone have the RearShockForward mod done to their EB410 or ET410? If so, is it still possible to use the droop settings?

02-10-2019, 06:07 PM

#4953

Tbuggy

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Quote:

Originally Posted by RCSteveH

Anyone have the RearShockForward mod done to their EB410 or ET410? If so, is it still possible to use the droop settings?

Not unless you drill a new hole for the grub screw.

02-10-2019, 08:37 PM

#4954

billdelong

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Quote:

Originally Posted by kevinpratt823

SCT has 12mm hex, so do newer XB4, mine are 14mm hex.

my bad, I missed the requirement for 14mm hex, I'm about to get a PR Racing kit in the mail tomorrow and will try to see if these 14mm hexes fit my EB410, apparently the PR kits come with both 12mm and 14mm hexes:
https://shop.thercproshop.com/pr-rac...crew-4pcs-html

kevinpratt823 likes this.

02-10-2019, 09:32 PM

#4955

daedalus

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Anyone think there will be a 410.2 dropping in the next 3-6 months with Tebo coming on board?

02-10-2019, 09:38 PM

#4956

thirtydaZe

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Quote:

Originally Posted by daedalus

Anyone think there will be a 410.2 dropping in the next 3-6 months with Tebo coming on board?

i would think there would be a front shock mod via Tekno or a .2 at some point but no clue the time frame.

02-11-2019, 12:16 PM

#4957

kevinpratt823

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Quote:

Originally Posted by billdelong

Depends on the axle, Tekno is 6mm, most others are 5mm.

02-11-2019, 06:41 PM

#4958

billdelong

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Quote:

Originally Posted by billdelong

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevinpratt823

Depends on the axle, Tekno is 6mm, most others are 5mm.

I just opened my PR Racing kit and can confirm that they use 5mm axles, I believe the 14mm hexes that I linked can work if you're willing to clamp them into a vise and bore out the hole to 6mm which is the same as a 15/64" drill bit, not sure if there are any brands making 14mm hexes with 6mm slots for the axles?

02-11-2019, 11:15 PM

#4959

Brutus279

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Quote:

Originally Posted by RCSteveH

Anyone have the RearShockForward mod done to their EB410 or ET410? If so, is it still possible to use the droop settings?

I've used RPRCdistribution rear +4mm rear shock tower. It did bring it right where I want. However I will likely just move to internal spacers and go back to the standard shock tower to keep the gravity center lower. The TLR 3.5mm shocks spacers are fit for the job.

02-22-2019, 05:45 PM

#4960

HeavyD99

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I always found this buggy to have limited droop, especially in the rear. We have a bunch of 180's at our track and I just couldn't seem to get the weight transfer to the front end so it could dig in and turn. I max'd out what the chassis would allow and just drove it. Checking out Tebo's recent OCRC set up he was running 23.9mm in front and 30mm of droop in the rear, 30! I just couldn't figure out how he ran so much droop with the chassis down stops limiting droop to somewhere around 27-28mm in the rear. Then I checked out the photos, ahh, ya, he cut the down stops off. Boom, cut mine off. At full drop, the rear bones will fall out but I'm going to try to get it to 30mm and see. More droop, more traction to come and better low speed steering for those 180's. Is it spring yet?

02-22-2019, 10:17 PM

#4961

Di_spencer

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Quote:

Originally Posted by HeavyD99

Part of it is also because he's running the arms flipped with the shocks on the front which ads droop and makes the car rotate and land better.

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02-24-2019, 05:13 PM

#4962

RazorRC

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The Arrma 4x4 BLX (Senton, Granite, Big Rock Crew Cab) series use 6mm bore, 14mm hexes. They are 6.5mm thick hexes. They use 2.5x11.75mm pins though, So you would have to drill out your axles that use the wimpy 2mm? drive pins.

03-02-2019, 11:36 AM

#4963

SLO county race

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More of an appreciation post.

Im really really happy with this buggy. I just finished up a 6 week series race and It was a 3 way tie for first before the mains. Ended up winning and getting first overall. I really like how durable this car is... it’s a tank. Nothing went wrong the entire 6 weeks except for a bent front inner hinge pin. It’s also extremely easy to drive. I was experimenting with my own set up for awhile and had a pretty good grip on things. Then the last two weeks I put Tebo’s set up on but just lengthened the f/r camber links and it got even easier I watched multiple 4wd cars brake throughout the 6 weeks but not a single tekno broke. Happy I decided to pick this buggy up.

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03-03-2019, 04:08 PM

#4964

Jay13

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Considering this buggy but wondering if the issues listed in this thread have been fixed? Do I need to order the 3x20mm screws for the bulkhead? Was there a running change to the hinge pins, or shock caps? Do the frames have issues with breaking? Do most of the current set ups require the rear shocks to be moved to the front of the towers? Any issues i'm missing?

03-04-2019, 06:21 AM

#4965

rustyus

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Yokomo 4mm Thin Serrated Flanged Wheel Nuts

Quote:

Originally Posted by Harrison477

I have been using the Yokomo, thin serrated wheel nuts and haven’t lost one yet.
They have a larger “contact” area against the wheel than the stock wheel nuts do.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494

Quote:

Originally Posted by EbbTide

I use the same ones and they've been solid.

Any chance on getting a measurement on the width?

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