2421LikesTekno RC EB410 Thread
05-13-2019, 06:33 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page. Basic Stats/Features:
Videos Servo Horns Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing: Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
Wheels
Setup Sheets and other documentation Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills: Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy: Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered! Build Tips:
Exotek Sway Bar Mount http://www.exotekracing.com/eb410-re...ar-mount-6061/
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01-28-2019, 05:43 AM
#4936
Hi all,
Do all the new kits come with all the new revised and updated components including the new chassis? As I held off buying this kit as there were durability issues.
I run on outdoor carpet tracks, what upgrades should I get? Should I run the shocks in front of the rear arms?
Any recommendations would be appreciated.
Thank you.
Do all the new kits come with all the new revised and updated components including the new chassis? As I held off buying this kit as there were durability issues.
I run on outdoor carpet tracks, what upgrades should I get? Should I run the shocks in front of the rear arms?
Any recommendations would be appreciated.
Thank you.
* Lunsford turnbuckles
* Lunsford shock standoffs
* Trinity aluminum steering rack
* Trinity aluminum rear hub
* Exotek rear outer locking hinge pin
* VRP +3mm rear shock tower --- allows 12-14mm ride height
* Arndtcraft center brace + cooling fan shroud
* Tornado aluminum case cooling fan
* AVID Ceramic Revolution bearings for 13.5T stock
* lightened body/wing
* Rear arms flipped
Flipping the rear arms will shorten the wheelbase and generate tons of steering speed, this was the single most beneficial mod for our high grip surface, my only regret was not doing this mod sooner!
I don't crash very often, but every now and then I'll get tangled with lap traffic and not uncommon to see my car thrown into a violent cartwheel or take a nasty nosedive into a board from a botched landing... very rare to see a break but have broken the front bulkhead, front shock tower, bent inner hing pins, damaged pill inserts and cracked center chassis brace. I don't run rear chassis braces and have thrown a rear center shaft once after a botched landing. I continue to run the stock ball cups as they do relatively well for me, very seldom do they ever pop off, but I have snapped the plastic ends off a cup maybe 2-3 times over the past 13+ months I have raced this chassis. Just be sure the rear camber links are parallel with the rear drive shafts because it's possible to mount the ball stud too close to the wheel and they can rub on the ball cups with too much droop which can cause premature failure. Also be sure to break in the threads of the ball cups with a 3mm screw and a drop of oil to prevent the ball cups from popping off when tuning.
At the club in my area, not uncommon to see more TEKNO's on the podium than any other brand, with the 3 most common brands raced in our area being TEKNO, XRay and Associated.
I plan to get a PR racing SB401-R soon, Adam Drake is making his look very enticing and I can't wait to compare lap times against my EB410
01-28-2019, 10:09 AM
#4937
Hopefully Matt will respond with an update as to if/when they decide to include the ET410 chassis update and revised A-block... they have already included the second update of the chassis in the EB410 with tighter milling around the B-block, so technically that update is there, but only the ET410 has the most recent update as far as I know. There have been many running updates to improve durability but here are the upgrades I am running on a covered medium size turf track with average lap times in the 22 sec range:
* Lunsford turnbuckles
* Lunsford shock standoffs
* Trinity aluminum steering rack
* Trinity aluminum rear hub
* Exotek rear outer locking hinge pin
* VRP +3mm rear shock tower --- allows 12-14mm ride height
* Arndtcraft center brace + cooling fan shroud
* Tornado aluminum case cooling fan
* AVID Ceramic Revolution bearings for 13.5T stock
* lightened body/wing
* Rear arms flipped
Flipping the rear arms will shorten the wheelbase and generate tons of steering speed, this was the single most beneficial mod for our high grip surface, my only regret was not doing this mod sooner!
I don't crash very often, but every now and then I'll get tangled with lap traffic and not uncommon to see my car thrown into a violent cartwheel or take a nasty nosedive into a board from a botched landing... very rare to see a break but have broken the front bulkhead, front shock tower, bent inner hing pins, damaged pill inserts and cracked center chassis brace. I don't run rear chassis braces and have thrown a rear center shaft once after a botched landing. I continue to run the stock ball cups as they do relatively well for me, very seldom do they ever pop off, but I have snapped the plastic ends off a cup maybe 2-3 times over the past 13+ months I have raced this chassis. Just be sure the rear camber links are parallel with the rear drive shafts because it's possible to mount the ball stud too close to the wheel and they can rub on the ball cups with too much droop which can cause premature failure. Also be sure to break in the threads of the ball cups with a 3mm screw and a drop of oil to prevent the ball cups from popping off when tuning.
At the club in my area, not uncommon to see more TEKNO's on the podium than any other brand, with the 3 most common brands raced in our area being TEKNO, XRay and Associated.
I plan to get a PR racing SB401-R soon, Adam Drake is making his look very enticing and I can't wait to compare lap times against my EB410
* Lunsford turnbuckles
* Lunsford shock standoffs
* Trinity aluminum steering rack
* Trinity aluminum rear hub
* Exotek rear outer locking hinge pin
* VRP +3mm rear shock tower --- allows 12-14mm ride height
* Arndtcraft center brace + cooling fan shroud
* Tornado aluminum case cooling fan
* AVID Ceramic Revolution bearings for 13.5T stock
* lightened body/wing
* Rear arms flipped
Flipping the rear arms will shorten the wheelbase and generate tons of steering speed, this was the single most beneficial mod for our high grip surface, my only regret was not doing this mod sooner!
I don't crash very often, but every now and then I'll get tangled with lap traffic and not uncommon to see my car thrown into a violent cartwheel or take a nasty nosedive into a board from a botched landing... very rare to see a break but have broken the front bulkhead, front shock tower, bent inner hing pins, damaged pill inserts and cracked center chassis brace. I don't run rear chassis braces and have thrown a rear center shaft once after a botched landing. I continue to run the stock ball cups as they do relatively well for me, very seldom do they ever pop off, but I have snapped the plastic ends off a cup maybe 2-3 times over the past 13+ months I have raced this chassis. Just be sure the rear camber links are parallel with the rear drive shafts because it's possible to mount the ball stud too close to the wheel and they can rub on the ball cups with too much droop which can cause premature failure. Also be sure to break in the threads of the ball cups with a 3mm screw and a drop of oil to prevent the ball cups from popping off when tuning.
At the club in my area, not uncommon to see more TEKNO's on the podium than any other brand, with the 3 most common brands raced in our area being TEKNO, XRay and Associated.
I plan to get a PR racing SB401-R soon, Adam Drake is making his look very enticing and I can't wait to compare lap times against my EB410
01-28-2019, 10:29 AM
#4938
PR Racing recently picked up Drake and they have a new release with a bunch of "Drake Edition" upgrades.
Some key features that PR is doing (included in the kit) that I would like to see TEKNO offer are vented center slipper, lightened drive line for stock racing and more aluminum/carbon bits without getting nickle and dimed on upgrades:
There is speculation that PR might pick up Ryan Lutz too, that would be really interesting to see how that plays out if it truly happens, ha!
Some key features that PR is doing (included in the kit) that I would like to see TEKNO offer are vented center slipper, lightened drive line for stock racing and more aluminum/carbon bits without getting nickle and dimed on upgrades:
There is speculation that PR might pick up Ryan Lutz too, that would be really interesting to see how that plays out if it truly happens, ha!
01-28-2019, 11:03 AM
#4940
Originally Posted by Adam Drake
I've run the 2wd and 4wd a fair amount...I've raced the car locally, but not sure about larger races. I'm not sure when the first major race will be, but I want to do something soon. This year has been crazier then I expected and sorry that I haven't done more racing. With Mugen we have released a new nitro buggy, electric buggy, and will soon release a new nitro truck and electric truck that have kept me super busy.... it would be nice to attend the WC next year in France for PR Racing.
Now bringing the topic back to discussion on the EB410, huge congrats to Jared Tebo for the big win at the RROC this past weekend... wow!
01-28-2019, 12:34 PM
#4941
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
Well done Jared Tebo for sure. That was some crazy racing - part skill, part survival!
Would anyone know, the camber locations on the Raceform V2 rear tower vs the Tekno 6583C, I'd like to mount my shocks on the front side of the rear arm and there are a lot of choices (Bezerk RC being the other one). Anyhow, does the Raceform maintain the stock hole locations? When comparing it in photos with the Tekno factory tower, the hole spacing looks a lot further apart/different. I like the fact the holes in the Raceform don't "overlap" as I've seen a few photos of some crashes and they have ripped through their hole locations. The Raceform looks super cool but I don't want to get too far away from the stock set ups. Thanks in advance.
Would anyone know, the camber locations on the Raceform V2 rear tower vs the Tekno 6583C, I'd like to mount my shocks on the front side of the rear arm and there are a lot of choices (Bezerk RC being the other one). Anyhow, does the Raceform maintain the stock hole locations? When comparing it in photos with the Tekno factory tower, the hole spacing looks a lot further apart/different. I like the fact the holes in the Raceform don't "overlap" as I've seen a few photos of some crashes and they have ripped through their hole locations. The Raceform looks super cool but I don't want to get too far away from the stock set ups. Thanks in advance.
01-28-2019, 02:26 PM
#4942
What do you guys feel right now is a good base setup for indoor carpet? Looking to help a buddy out setting up his vehicle but I run a different brand now.
We run on grey ozite with a tire rule limitation (no carpet pins) so slicks with sxt 3.0 compound are common.
We run on grey ozite with a tire rule limitation (no carpet pins) so slicks with sxt 3.0 compound are common.
01-28-2019, 04:12 PM
#4943
I have ran my turf setup at an indoor carpet track in Albuquerque without having to change a single thing, though I ran the same pin style tires Prisms... probably not exactly what you want but might help get you in the right direction:
Bill DeLong EB410 High Traction Turf Setup Jan-2019
Bill DeLong EB410 High Traction Turf Setup Jan-2019
01-29-2019, 10:10 AM
#4945
no sauce is allowed on the turf track in our area, however I have found that tire warmers make a big difference in the winter time, my lap times are right on par with a hot summer day, ha!
01-29-2019, 10:18 AM
#4946
no sauce is allowed on the turf track in our area, however I have found that tire warmers make a big difference in the winter time, my lap times are right on par with a hot summer day, ha!
02-05-2019, 02:52 PM
#4947
Wondering if anyone is using the hobbywing xr10 pro stock esc in their eb410, 13.5. I use it in my 2wd 17.5 buggy and love it, the performance, size , light weight allows me to put weight where I need it. That being said is it enough for 13.5 in a 4wd buggy. I'd like one for the fact of it's size and light weight just not sure how it performs.
02-09-2019, 07:59 PM
#4950
Just finished building my EB410. Upgraded from a 22-4 1.0. So far enjoyed the build as it went very smoothly.
Setup: Tekin 5.5, SMC 170 ESC, Sanwa Receiver, Savox 1258TG, SMC Shorty
Setup: Tekin 5.5, SMC 170 ESC, Sanwa Receiver, Savox 1258TG, SMC Shorty