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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

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Old 05-13-2019, 06:33 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:
  • Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
  • Gear differentials (all 3)
  • Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
  • Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
  • Reverse bellcrank steering system
  • Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • 8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
  • 13mm big bore shocks
  • 3.5mm shock shafts
  • Droop screws

Videos
Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
  • Preference for Associated factory team pinions
  • Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
  • Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
  • Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
  • For comparison:
  • B64 is 2.47:1
  • 22-4 is 2.4:1
  • YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels
  • B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
  • 22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
  • B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
  • 22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!


Build Tips:
  • When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head

  • Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock

  • Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification

  • Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment

  • Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
  • To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
  • pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
    More shock build tips here
  • Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
  • Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.

  • When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
  • When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
  • If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.

  • Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings


  • Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494


  • Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

    This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

    Joey A.

    So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

    -Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

    -Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

    -Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

    -Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

    -Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

    -Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

    Sorry for the shity grammar,
    TJR

    Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

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Old 01-09-2019, 10:21 AM
  #4921  
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Thanks for the replies guys, Ordered some smaller pinions and will adjust timing when that arrives. The more I think about it, motor was probably getting too hot throughout the runs and fading on me. Hopefully have the parts here before the next open practice!
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Old 01-09-2019, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
45-50deg timing and 22-23T pinion on the spec-r. run a fan
i'm right around 50 deg of timing on mine and same for pinion depending on the track layout i change it.
But it screams!
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Old 01-10-2019, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by budfan08
Running on carpet, Proline positron M4 tires, no sauce
All new electronics. Tekin gen3 Spec r(13.5t), Hobbywing XR10 Pro Stock Spec v4 ESC(factory spec, haven't changed anything as of yet), 25t/81t pinion/spur, 2s 4100 Mah Protek liHV battery.
There was just hesitation it felt like coming out of turns after a few laps, I would hit the throttle and there would be a delay until I was straightened out(could be coincidence). Once I hit a straight, it would pick up speed like normal.
Stock setup, 15/15/7k diff fluids.

Didn't have a fan on the first 2 races, put one on as well as drilled a bunch of holes for air flow, however, same result, almost happened sooner. Motor felt hot after each run, will have to bring a temp gun next time.
by any chance did you hear any odd noises like maybe some gear slippage or winding sound? I too have had a slightly leaky center diff and noticed when I punch throttle, specifically when hitting a jump, I hear the aforementioned noises. It feels like I am loosing power like gears are slipping or possibly diffing out.
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Old 01-13-2019, 05:41 AM
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I’m doing the rear shock mod, searched a bit but want to get one part straight. For the a-arms, do you have to trim, and if yes on which side & how much?
I’ve read that if you run the shims forward when running the shocks on the rear you’ll need to trim 3mm & 1.5 if running shims on back of arms with rear shock mount. It seems like the shock lineup from the tower to a-arm is off a bit without trimming and the 1.5 shims up front. Yes I did swap arms L to R but when lifting the arm after shocks are put on the arm sticks up a bit after I release it.
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Old 01-15-2019, 06:14 AM
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Found all my answers needed on FB. I'm not going to do everything mentioned but if anyone wants info to get started. For some reason it won't display as a link when I try to attach it as a link?

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Old 01-16-2019, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Maxxingout
Found all my answers needed on FB. I'm not going to do everything mentioned but if anyone wants info to get started. For some reason it won't display as a link when I try to attach it as a link?
shock mod
No idea why, but I am curious what you found, should have my kit in a few days and plan to build shocks forward.
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Old 01-17-2019, 01:09 AM
  #4927  
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There is a very detailed post on Tekno RC UK Forum's Facebook group.

Basically you flip the arms, remove 1mm from the rear of the arms and add 2.5mm of spacers in front of them. I also added a 1mm spacer to the shock standoff to keep the shocks aligned.

You can remove more material from the rear of the arms if you want to get closer to the stock wheelbase. You will have to add the shaved amount to the original 1.5mm of shims used in the stock form.
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Old 01-17-2019, 04:02 AM
  #4928  
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That's the FB link I was referring to.
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Old 01-25-2019, 02:53 PM
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I am sure this has been asked before but is there a chart showing what the rear pills mean for toe and antisquat.
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Old 01-25-2019, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by TonyWest
I am sure this has been asked before but is there a chart showing what the rear pills mean for toe and antisquat.
They show it on the setup sheet:


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Old 01-25-2019, 10:21 PM
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Anyone know if the more recent kits are shipping with better stock shock caps (ala ET410 fitment/quality) or are they still a pain in the...?
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Old 01-25-2019, 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by daedalus
Anyone know if the more recent kits are shipping with better stock shock caps (ala ET410 fitment/quality) or are they still a pain in the...?
just built mine a couple months ago. Mine went on as smooth as butter. Just make sure you start by unscrewing until the caps seat correctly then start screwing them on. They were the same on my ET410 too.
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Old 01-26-2019, 11:57 AM
  #4933  
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maybe I am missing something in the set up or pill listing. How do you get 1 degree of antisquat and 3 degrees of toe.
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Old 01-26-2019, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by TonyWest
maybe I am missing something in the set up or pill listing. How do you get 1 degree of antisquat and 3 degrees of toe.


*** This is probably 1 of 6 permutations of how to get that setup, but this is the closest to stock setup.
Last edited by billdelong; 01-28-2019 at 05:51 AM.
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Old 01-28-2019, 03:49 AM
  #4935  
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Hi all,

Do all the new kits come with all the new revised and updated components including the new chassis? As I held off buying this kit as there were durability issues.

I run on outdoor carpet tracks, what upgrades should I get? Should I run the shocks in front of the rear arms?

Any recommendations would be appreciated.

Thank you.
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