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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

05-13-2019, 06:33 AM - Wikipost

R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread

Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.

Last edit by: tobamiester

Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:

Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
Gear differentials (all 3)
Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
Reverse bellcrank steering system
Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
13mm big bore shocks
3.5mm shock shafts
Droop screws

Videos

Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:

Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.

Preference for Associated factory team pinions
Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
For comparison:
B64 is 2.47:1
22-4 is 2.4:1
YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels

B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Ryan Lutz Setups
Instruction Manual
EB410 Resources
Ryan Lutz IOCC blog
PT Oil CST conversion Chart
List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:

GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.
Harbor Freight 0.5mm - 3.0mm bit set * 2.1mm not included

Aftermarket Upgrades:

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Build Tips:

When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head
Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock
Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification
Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment
Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
More shock build tips here
Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.
When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.
Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings
Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494
Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

Joey A.

So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

-Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

-Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

-Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

-Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

-Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

-Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

Sorry for the shity grammar,
TJR

Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

Exotek Sway Bar Mount http://www.exotekracing.com/eb410-re...ar-mount-6061/

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10-27-2018, 12:53 PM

#4801

EbbTide

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Quote:

Originally Posted by jonski

13.5 guys...how many if you are running the MIP puck system? Any benefits actually noticed? How has the wear been?

Thanks

I've been running them in my eb410 and my converted eb210. The wear has been pretty good in my opinion since I've only had to change the pucks once after a year of use with a 13.5 motor. I do have a chip in one of my outdrives after someone t-boned me but I still run it without a problem

you just have to be okay with spending the money initially.

10-27-2018, 09:32 PM

#4802

Bruce_R

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So I am up to the rear shocks on my new build of my first eb410. As mentioned before, I had a ball stud with defective threads. Now I found another issue with my kit. The spur gear has teeth that are not fully formed in certain areas around the circumference. 85% of the teeth look fine, but about every 20 teeth or so there are a few which are about half the normal height. It looks similar to a flat spot created by a pinion that spun on it, but the teeth are not flattened, they are just shorter than the rest. I haven't even finished building the car yet, and it looks like I will be making a second run to my local hobby shop for parts to replace the new/defective ones in my kit. Has anybody else received Spur Gears/Center diff covers which were defective? I will post a couple pictures tomorrow. This is frustrating. And yes, this is a brand new kit bought from it legitimate dealer, Factory sealed.

10-28-2018, 07:45 AM

#4803

Bruce_R

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You can see well-formed teeth to the right, short ones front and center.

10-28-2018, 07:47 AM

#4804

Bruce_R

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How I took the photo, FYI.

10-28-2018, 09:41 AM

#4805

EbbTide

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Bruce_R

You can see well-formed teeth to the right, short ones front and center.

Tbh yours is the first I've seen that defective. I have several spare spurs some NIP some used and all of them look good. It is normal for there to be high spots but yours is clearly a little more than just a high spot. I'm sure tekno will help you out especially now that you documented it with images.

10-29-2018, 04:37 AM

#4806

Maxxingout

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I had a issue with a new part on my tekno. I went to there website and contacted them with a description and pictures of the item plus my invoice. In about 3 days I had my new item at my door, great customer service.

Bruce_R likes this.

10-29-2018, 06:06 AM

#4807

lowspark

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Bruce_R

You can see well-formed teeth to the right, short ones front and center.

New weight saving hop-up

10-29-2018, 04:23 PM

#4808

Bruce_R

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Quote:

Originally Posted by lowspark

New weight saving hop-up

I'd be happy to part with this hop up for say, $25 to your door. 😃

10-30-2018, 11:02 AM

#4809

jonski

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Any clearance issues with the fan on top of the center carbon brace with the JConcepts F2 body?

10-30-2018, 12:15 PM

#4810

EbbTide

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Quote:

Originally Posted by jonski

Any clearance issues with the fan on top of the center carbon brace with the JConcepts F2 body?

you need the jconcepts carbon fiber fan mount otherwise the fan will rub the body

jonski likes this.

10-30-2018, 12:22 PM

#4811

jonski

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Quote:

Originally Posted by EbbTide

you need the jconcepts carbon fiber fan mount otherwise the fan will rub the body

That's what I thought...thanks

Last edited by jonski; 10-30-2018 at 12:38 PM.

10-30-2018, 12:33 PM

#4812

Bruce_R

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https://arndtcraft.com/collections/k...n-shroud-mount

Arndtcraft's mount is one of the best out there, if not the best, and is designed to clear the JConcepts body as well.

jonski and cavwrench like this.

11-02-2018, 11:47 AM

#4813

SCRAFAN

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Can anyone tell me if you guys are running the 2 rear braces/stiffiners? running medium to high bite clay.

11-04-2018, 07:12 PM

#4814

lowspark

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Tried composite diff gears for the last few weeks...

The rear diff let go yesterday (stripped the <sun gear?> on one side).... Had a heads up from a couple of fellow racers that they had problems with theirs and had gone back to metal gears... did I listen??

Needless to say I removed the composites in all 3 diffs and put the steel gears back in....