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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

05-13-2019, 06:33 AM - Wikipost

R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread

Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.

Last edit by: tobamiester

Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:

Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
Gear differentials (all 3)
Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
Reverse bellcrank steering system
Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
13mm big bore shocks
3.5mm shock shafts
Droop screws

Videos

Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:

Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.

Preference for Associated factory team pinions
Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
For comparison:
B64 is 2.47:1
22-4 is 2.4:1
YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels

B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Ryan Lutz Setups
Instruction Manual
EB410 Resources
Ryan Lutz IOCC blog
PT Oil CST conversion Chart
List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:

GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.
Harbor Freight 0.5mm - 3.0mm bit set * 2.1mm not included

Aftermarket Upgrades:

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Build Tips:

When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head
Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock
Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification
Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment
Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
More shock build tips here
Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.
When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.
Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings
Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494
Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

Joey A.

So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

-Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

-Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

-Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

-Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

-Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

-Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

Sorry for the shity grammar,
TJR

Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

Exotek Sway Bar Mount http://www.exotekracing.com/eb410-re...ar-mount-6061/

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10-08-2018, 12:38 PM

#4681

jonski

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Any issues with the stock plastic servo horn? I was going to order an aluminum one but can't seem to find a 23 tooth one.

10-08-2018, 12:52 PM

#4682

billdelong

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Maxxingout

Question, why didn't tekno include a front sway bar on this wheeler but made it a optional part? all my other wheelers had them in the kit and were def used.

probably the same reason why they didn't include wheels and tires, folks probably buy a tuning kit and try different bars until they find one that works best for their track conditions.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jonski

Any issues with the stock plastic servo horn? I was going to order an aluminum one but can't seem to find a 23 tooth one.

I'm running a ProTek 25T horn in mine, I would assume the 23T variant of the horn will fit just as nicely too. On the turf track in our area, the stock plastic horns don't last very long

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10-08-2018, 01:01 PM

#4683

Cain

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Quote:

Originally Posted by jonski

Any issues with the stock plastic servo horn? I was going to order an aluminum one but can't seem to find a 23 tooth one.

It can strip. Tekno didn't make a 23T horn from what I recall, just a 25T one.

There are some other horns i believe that will work and you can get a 23T one of.

jonski likes this.

10-08-2018, 01:03 PM

#4684

Cain

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Maxxingout

Question, why didn't tekno include a front sway bar on this wheeler but made it a optional part? all my other wheelers had them in the kit and were def used.

I am assuming its because of the price point they were trying to reach with the vehicle. Personally, I rather have a more complete option with applicable cost increase but for them they feel this is a better option.

10-08-2018, 01:03 PM

#4685

jonski

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Cain

It can strip. Tekno didn't make a 23T horn from what I recall, just a 25T one.

There are some other horns i believe that will work and you can get a 23T one of.

I searched all over the place for a 23T Tekno horn...thought I was going crazy. Thanks guys!

10-08-2018, 01:52 PM

#4686

BaggedRanger

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Quote:

Originally Posted by jonski

Any issues with the stock plastic servo horn? I was going to order an aluminum one but can't seem to find a 23 tooth one.

2 packs and mine stripped..

10-08-2018, 01:56 PM

#4687

BaggedRanger

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Quote:

Originally Posted by billdelong

If you want a cooler motor, then consider this fan shroud from ARNDTcraft:
https://arndtcraft.com/products/tekn...n-shroud-mount

A bunch of folks have recently been showing up with these shrouds on their cars at the club in my area lately and they're all raving about how much cooler their motors are coming off the track.... something like 40° cooler than just a regular fan are the claims I'm hearing so I just ordered up a pair of shrouds for my EB410 and my ET410.... they charge $5 shipping for 1 and free shipping if you buy 2. It's really ingenious because it's the next best thing having a forced air intake blowing more directly into the cooling vents of the motor to maximize the output of your fan.

With a trumpet fan I've never had a motor some off the track that I couldn't even hold.. For those trying to eliminate weight not sure adding weight higher up in the chassis would be ideal..

10-08-2018, 01:58 PM

#4688

BaggedRanger

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Quote:

Originally Posted by shadaloo

for low profile servos the manual says to mount it this way, but thanks for the reply, flipping it might of fixed the problem too.

Also depends on which side piece you use.. If you use the shorter which is designed for the LP servos then yes you would need to flip the servo horn. If you are using the taller one which is meant for full size servos then that might explain why you had to change the servo arm orientation.

10-08-2018, 02:40 PM

#4689

Maxxingout

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I bought the front tuning kit assuming the mounting hardware was already in the kit. Guess I’ll need to order the sway bar mounting assembly.

10-08-2018, 03:04 PM

#4690

jonski

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Can anyone give me the servo horn dimension from the centercof the servo shaft to the center of the ballstud? I don't have my EB410 yet, so I can't measure it. Want to see if any of my horns will be close enough. Thanks

10-08-2018, 06:29 PM

#4691

BaggedRanger

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Maxxingout

I bought the front tuning kit assuming the mounting hardware was already in the kit. Guess I’ll need to order the sway bar mounting assembly.

Everything you need should be in the kit for the front sway bar.

10-08-2018, 06:38 PM

#4692

shadaloo

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Quote:

Originally Posted by sea1swk

I've been running the MIP Chassis with full pucks, for quite a few months. Race on Clay, almost every weekend. I recommend sticking with the 3, gear diffs. I feel that if you do a slipper, it adds more tension and not as forgiving when things get a little sideways. I feel the Pucks are lighter, less weight in the drivetrain = quicker acceleration. Also quieter and smoother. I put a dab of grease on the pucks, when I do maint. Not wore out any yet. I'm running Composite gears in the front and back. Mine ate the composite gears in the middle, for some reason. But I have also been beaten by a almost stock eb410.

awesome, thanks for the info. so on the mip site it says,

"PRO TIPS:

500K Center Diff for Dirt / 1 million Center Diff For Carpet / Turf
Use grease or bearing oil on the pucks to extend life
Use 2 x .050 (#9000) to install and disassemble pucks with ease
Main screw that holds yoke on is a 1/16 (#9001) not a 1.5 mm
Use Locktite on all screws in kit "

Is the center diff oil what I should start with? I wasn't sure how much it would affect setup changes, going to the 13.5 pucks system.
I also have the composite gears, carbon options, etc... so excited to try these out!

10-08-2018, 07:56 PM

#4693

STLNLST

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Quote:

Originally Posted by shadaloo

awesome, thanks for the info. so on the mip site it says,

"PRO TIPS:

500K Center Diff for Dirt / 1 million Center Diff For Carpet / Turf
Use grease or bearing oil on the pucks to extend life
Use 2 x .050 (#9000) to install and disassemble pucks with ease
Main screw that holds yoke on is a 1/16 (#9001) not a 1.5 mm
Use Locktite on all screws in kit "

A-main shows the 13.5 performance Bundle at $177.99...….what makes it worth that price? The same package for the B64 is $145. I still wouldn't spend that much on this system. Just my $0.02

10-08-2018, 08:06 PM

#4694

EbbTide

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Quote:

Originally Posted by STLNLST

A-main shows the 13.5 performance Bundle at $177.99...….what makes it worth that price? The same package for the B64 is $145. I still wouldn't spend that much on this system. Just my $0.02

it used to be $150 but MIP technically discontinued it and is selling all remaining stock through their team driver's website. So Amain I guess felt free to sell it at whatever price they see fit. You can get it for $145 here at their team drivers website but I think that's the only place to get it at retail.

https://modspeedshop.com/collections...no-eb410-f-c-r