2421LikesTekno RC EB410 Thread
05-13-2019, 06:33 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page. Basic Stats/Features:
Videos Servo Horns Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing: Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
Wheels
Setup Sheets and other documentation Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills: Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy: Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered! Build Tips:
Exotek Sway Bar Mount http://www.exotekracing.com/eb410-re...ar-mount-6061/
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10-06-2018, 07:21 PM
#4666
If you want a cooler motor, then consider this fan shroud from ARNDTcraft:
https://arndtcraft.com/products/tekn...n-shroud-mount
A bunch of folks have recently been showing up with these shrouds on their cars at the club in my area lately and they're all raving about how much cooler their motors are coming off the track.... something like 40° cooler than just a regular fan are the claims I'm hearing so I just ordered up a pair of shrouds for my EB410 and my ET410.... they charge $5 shipping for 1 and free shipping if you buy 2. It's really ingenious because it's the next best thing having a forced air intake blowing more directly into the cooling vents of the motor to maximize the output of your fan.
https://arndtcraft.com/products/tekn...n-shroud-mount
A bunch of folks have recently been showing up with these shrouds on their cars at the club in my area lately and they're all raving about how much cooler their motors are coming off the track.... something like 40° cooler than just a regular fan are the claims I'm hearing so I just ordered up a pair of shrouds for my EB410 and my ET410.... they charge $5 shipping for 1 and free shipping if you buy 2. It's really ingenious because it's the next best thing having a forced air intake blowing more directly into the cooling vents of the motor to maximize the output of your fan.
10-07-2018, 08:13 AM
#4667
Shock build question...
I used the MIP shock cartridges when I first built my kit... perfect reaction when completed. Very dead / no rebound when pushed in or pulled out.
I just rebuilt (bad crash and bent a shock shaft), so I did both of my rear shocks. I used the new TKR6708 cartridge with new x-rings. I cannot get my shocks to zero rebound. A little rebound when pushed in but the shaft retracks almost half way when pulled out and released.
Is this normal or am I doing something wrong...
-plenty of green slime, 20 pumps, bled correctly..
Note, I took apart one of my front shocks apart the still had the MIP cartridges in them. I noticed I had put the bottom section of the cartridge in backwards(?) with the hump part pressed against the x-ring and not into the cap.... hmmmmm??
I tried doing this with the new Tekno cartridge and it bound-up the shock shaft...
So I grabbed the MIP parts that I originally had in the rear and put them back in the (and put the one part backwards again) and now I have zero rebound, the shock shaft feels a bit to snug... i figure it will loosen a tab as I use it??
Help?!?!?!
Cliff
I used the MIP shock cartridges when I first built my kit... perfect reaction when completed. Very dead / no rebound when pushed in or pulled out.
I just rebuilt (bad crash and bent a shock shaft), so I did both of my rear shocks. I used the new TKR6708 cartridge with new x-rings. I cannot get my shocks to zero rebound. A little rebound when pushed in but the shaft retracks almost half way when pulled out and released.
Is this normal or am I doing something wrong...
-plenty of green slime, 20 pumps, bled correctly..
Note, I took apart one of my front shocks apart the still had the MIP cartridges in them. I noticed I had put the bottom section of the cartridge in backwards(?) with the hump part pressed against the x-ring and not into the cap.... hmmmmm??
I tried doing this with the new Tekno cartridge and it bound-up the shock shaft...
So I grabbed the MIP parts that I originally had in the rear and put them back in the (and put the one part backwards again) and now I have zero rebound, the shock shaft feels a bit to snug... i figure it will loosen a tab as I use it??
Help?!?!?!
Cliff
10-07-2018, 11:12 AM
#4668
When I attended a race clinic from Joe Bornhorst, he recommended to NOT pump the shocks when bleeding... simply fill the fluid with the shaft fully extended, then place the cap on the shock and slowly compress the shaft such that all the air is forced out and minimize fluid coming from the bleeder hole, tighten screw after shaft is fully compressed... done
10-07-2018, 11:52 AM
#4669
its not necessary but I personally like it a lot. It's easy to change out the pucks when they wear down and they dont wear out too quick either. The reason I like them is it takes a little stress off the motor which for me has resulted in a cooler motor but also a torque monster.
10-07-2018, 01:57 PM
#4670
Tech Adept
When I attended a race clinic from Joe Bornhorst, he recommended to NOT pump the shocks when bleeding... simply fill the fluid with the shaft fully extended, then place the cap on the shock and slowly compress the shaft such that all the air is forced out and minimize fluid coming from the bleeder hole, tighten screw after shaft is fully compressed... done
10-07-2018, 03:17 PM
#4671
I don't remember exactly what he said, but I think it had something to do with getting a more consistent mixture of air in each shock so they are perfectly balanced. When you pump and bleed, the amount of force and air is a variable of how much fluid is in the shock before you place the cap making it less likely to get a perfectly balanced mixture.
10-07-2018, 03:19 PM
#4672
When I attended a race clinic from Joe Bornhorst, he recommended to NOT pump the shocks when bleeding... simply fill the fluid with the shaft fully extended, then place the cap on the shock and slowly compress the shaft such that all the air is forced out and minimize fluid coming from the bleeder hole, tighten screw after shaft is fully compressed... done
I had seen your post before on this. I will give it a try.
What about the movement of the shaft (rebound)... is it ok the way I noted with it pulling back in half-way?
10-07-2018, 03:29 PM
#4673
Here's a video of exactly how Joe was recommending, just without the pumping step, and you need to do the bleed about 3x slower than how fast Ryan is bleeding here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ho12c4wvO0M
10-07-2018, 06:36 PM
#4674
IMO, the only way you can build a shock with no suction/rebound is if the seals leak. Either you build the shocks with vacuum and they suction in, or you build them with extra air and they rebound out. The shock shafts displace air, so something has to give if you compress them or pull them out.
So I don't think it's a good goal.
So I don't think it's a good goal.
10-07-2018, 10:07 PM
#4675
Tech Addict
iTrader: (16)
So I ran my new eb410 for first time today. What an awesome car . . .
I was really impressed how it just begged me to drive it harder. For initial run I did try a Low CG battery that was pretty light. My car only weighed 1630g . . . while it accelerated hard it was not as planted as I had hoped. I switched to a regular side battery (which added 50g), and car was much better balanced, still very responsive but very planted.
So I had one odd thing happen at the end of my run. I thought I broke a rear hub because the hub was detached from the rear arm. Makes no sense, but arm was intact, hub was intact, and the outer pin was not even bent?! I checked to make sure it was round, put it back in the arm and tested it . . . nothing broken . . .
I am pretty perplexed . . . I think maybe the rear arms must have a lot of flex in them . . .
any thoughts?
I was really impressed how it just begged me to drive it harder. For initial run I did try a Low CG battery that was pretty light. My car only weighed 1630g . . . while it accelerated hard it was not as planted as I had hoped. I switched to a regular side battery (which added 50g), and car was much better balanced, still very responsive but very planted.
So I had one odd thing happen at the end of my run. I thought I broke a rear hub because the hub was detached from the rear arm. Makes no sense, but arm was intact, hub was intact, and the outer pin was not even bent?! I checked to make sure it was round, put it back in the arm and tested it . . . nothing broken . . .
I am pretty perplexed . . . I think maybe the rear arms must have a lot of flex in them . . .
any thoughts?
10-08-2018, 05:41 AM
#4676
Tech Apprentice
depending on the distence betewwn the hole it may bolt right in or I could possible modify a little. velcro would defiantly be quicker and easier but lets be honest it snot as cool lol
10-08-2018, 07:11 AM
#4677
So I ran my new eb410 for first time today. What an awesome car . . .
I was really impressed how it just begged me to drive it harder. For initial run I did try a Low CG battery that was pretty light. My car only weighed 1630g . . . while it accelerated hard it was not as planted as I had hoped. I switched to a regular side battery (which added 50g), and car was much better balanced, still very responsive but very planted.
So I had one odd thing happen at the end of my run. I thought I broke a rear hub because the hub was detached from the rear arm. Makes no sense, but arm was intact, hub was intact, and the outer pin was not even bent?! I checked to make sure it was round, put it back in the arm and tested it . . . nothing broken . . .
I am pretty perplexed . . . I think maybe the rear arms must have a lot of flex in them . . .
any thoughts?
I was really impressed how it just begged me to drive it harder. For initial run I did try a Low CG battery that was pretty light. My car only weighed 1630g . . . while it accelerated hard it was not as planted as I had hoped. I switched to a regular side battery (which added 50g), and car was much better balanced, still very responsive but very planted.
So I had one odd thing happen at the end of my run. I thought I broke a rear hub because the hub was detached from the rear arm. Makes no sense, but arm was intact, hub was intact, and the outer pin was not even bent?! I checked to make sure it was round, put it back in the arm and tested it . . . nothing broken . . .
I am pretty perplexed . . . I think maybe the rear arms must have a lot of flex in them . . .
any thoughts?
You will need to drill out the hole on the arm for the pin to go all the way through, I have also used the same rear pins from the HoBao Hyper10TT which are a direct fit as shown in the wiki (top of this thread):
Tekno RC EB410 Thread
10-08-2018, 11:45 AM
#4678
Question, why didn't tekno include a front sway bar on this wheeler but made it a optional part? all my other wheelers had them in the kit and were def used.
10-08-2018, 12:10 PM
#4680
I've been running the MIP Chassis with full pucks, for quite a few months. Race on Clay, almost every weekend. I recommend sticking with the 3, gear diffs. I feel that if you do a slipper, it adds more tension and not as forgiving when things get a little sideways. I feel the Pucks are lighter, less weight in the drivetrain = quicker acceleration. Also quieter and smoother. I put a dab of grease on the pucks, when I do maint. Not wore out any yet. I'm running Composite gears in the front and back. Mine ate the composite gears in the middle, for some reason. But I have also been beaten by a almost stock eb410.