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Old 05-13-2019, 06:33 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread
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Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:
  • Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
  • Gear differentials (all 3)
  • Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
  • Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
  • Reverse bellcrank steering system
  • Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • 8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
  • 13mm big bore shocks
  • 3.5mm shock shafts
  • Droop screws

Videos
Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
  • Preference for Associated factory team pinions
  • Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
  • Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
  • Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
  • For comparison:
  • B64 is 2.47:1
  • 22-4 is 2.4:1
  • YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels
  • B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
  • 22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
  • B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
  • 22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!


Build Tips:
  • When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head

  • Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock

  • Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification

  • Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment

  • Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
  • To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
  • pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
    More shock build tips here
  • Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
  • Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.

  • When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
  • When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
  • If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.

  • Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings


  • Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494


  • Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

    This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

    Joey A.

    So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

    -Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

    -Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

    -Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

    -Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

    -Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

    -Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

    Sorry for the shity grammar,
    TJR

    Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

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Old 02-02-2018, 07:38 AM
  #3496  
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28-29 with 81t
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Old 02-02-2018, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by rcjunky10
Gearing feedback request:

EB410 community I have my 410 just about ready to hit the track, clay surface small to medium in size w/ good flow. Running a 13.5 Monster HP Trinity and Orion 10.1 ESC.

I see guys running both 81t and 70t spur gears, seems the AE pinions mesh well but wanted to try some of the polypro hybrid pinions as well.

Question: What’s a good range of pinions to stock if you’re playing with those spur gear options? Don’t like running near the ragged edge of Equipment ability, so I prefer a milder setup.

Thanks guys for feedback!
I'm currently running 28/81 with a 13.5T MonsterMax set to 5.6A on a motor analyzer for medium size track (22 sec lap times) on turf.

Maybe start there and go up or down a tooth on the pinion if necessary?
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Old 02-02-2018, 08:09 AM
  #3498  
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Originally Posted by rcjunky10
Gearing feedback request:

EB410 community I have my 410 just about ready to hit the track, clay surface small to medium in size w/ good flow. Running a 13.5 Monster HP Trinity and Orion 10.1 ESC.

I see guys running both 81t and 70t spur gears, seems the AE pinions mesh well but wanted to try some of the polypro hybrid pinions as well.

Question: What’s a good range of pinions to stock if you’re playing with those spur gear options? Don’t like running near the ragged edge of Equipment ability, so I prefer a milder setup.

Thanks guys for feedback!
Originally Posted by WonTonsChicken
28-29 with 81t
Originally Posted by billdelong
I'm currently running 28/81 with a 13.5T MonsterMax set to 5.6A on a motor analyzer for medium size track (22 sec lap times) on turf.

Maybe start there and go up or down a tooth on the pinion if necessary?
Looks like these guys have experience with your motor.

Just a note on spur. Since these guys are in the 28-29t pinion range, and you want to try the polypro (also 175rc, exotec, and other super-lightweight options) You'll probably want to stick with the 81t spur. Those lightweight pinions stop at 26t pinion, and the ones I've contacted have no interest in making any smaller than 26t.

BUT, if you want to drop to the 70t spur to get the motor closer to the centerline and better weight distribution, you then have the option to with the AE TE pinions. They weight in at 1g, which isn't too shabby, considering my RR pinions weighed in a 3-4g's.

I would love to know what the polypro and other options actually come in weight wise.
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Old 02-02-2018, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by WonTonsChicken
28-29 with 81t
I have same motor and run 27-28/81 and it works!
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Old 02-02-2018, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by ezlight
Those lightweight pinions stop at 26t pinion, and the ones I've contacted have no interest in making any smaller than 26t.

I've got about 4 race days on my Kimbrough Carbon Pinion gear, works great, very efficient and they sell pinions all the way down to 15T:
Pinion Gears: 48P - Kimbrough Racing Products - RC Spur Gears, Pinion Gears, Servo Savers

I've added this link to the Wiki as well
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Old 02-02-2018, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by billdelong
I've got about 4 race days on my Kimbrough Carbon Pinion gear, works great, very efficient and they sell pinions all the way down to 15T:
Pinion Gears: 48P - Kimbrough Racing Products - RC Spur Gears, Pinion Gears, Servo Savers

I've added this link to the Wiki as well
Whats the weight difference to say... an AE aluminum pinion or the polypro pinions?
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Old 02-02-2018, 09:44 AM
  #3502  
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Originally Posted by billdelong
I've got about 4 race days on my Kimbrough Carbon Pinion gear, works great, very efficient and they sell pinions all the way down to 15T:
Pinion Gears: 48P - Kimbrough Racing Products - RC Spur Gears, Pinion Gears, Servo Savers

I've added this link to the Wiki as well
Nice, those weren't even on my radar. What is the weight o fthem with colar and set screw?
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Old 02-02-2018, 09:56 AM
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Ok here’s my few questions for today, first with the Tekin pro spec 13.5 it seems as though everyone is running between 21-23 pinion gears. Would there be any other reason to go up or down there? Refresher, in pinions and spurs if you go up in one do you go down on another? Higher spur over lower spur, what’s the advantage here and same question for pinion gears. I remember there is a science to this, I just don’t remember the science. And last, the MIP drivetrain set up. Is it worth it, have any of you noticed better performance or any other types of details that would validate the cost? Just thinking about this since I will be rebuilding my diffs once my PT oils arrive if it’s worth getting and installing at that time. Thanks everyone in advance
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Old 02-02-2018, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by SanDiegoRacer
Ok here’s my few questions for today, first with the Tekin pro spec 13.5 it seems as though everyone is running between 21-23 pinion gears. Would there be any other reason to go up or down there? Refresher, in pinions and spurs if you go up in one do you go down on another? Higher spur over lower spur, what’s the advantage here and same question for pinion gears. I remember there is a science to this, I just don’t remember the science. And last, the MIP drivetrain set up. Is it worth it, have any of you noticed better performance or any other types of details that would validate the cost? Just thinking about this since I will be rebuilding my diffs once my PT oils arrive if it’s worth getting and installing at that time. Thanks everyone in advance
I'll give you the short version

The Tekin Spec-r motor is tuned to have more overall RPM so most guys running the Spec-r motor are geared a lot lower than others would be on a motor like the Maclan team edition or the standard Tekin redline 13.5. That is why you see such a difference in gearing.

Going up in pinion teeth or down in spur teeth will give you more top speed. Less teeth on the pinion or more teeth on the spur gives you less speed
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Old 02-02-2018, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by SanDiegoRacer
Ok here’s my few questions for today, first with the Tekin pro spec 13.5 it seems as though everyone is running between 21-23 pinion gears. Would there be any other reason to go up or down there?
In reference to the spec-r 13.5t, 21t pinion must be on a very small track, or little to no straightaway. I started at 25t, dropped to 24t at a race, and it woke up a bit, and then dropped again to 23t pinion at a different track. I haven't felt the need or even inclined to go any lower. This is on small-medium tracks clay and turf. (Turf being smaller) And I've stuck with the 23t pinion on all 3 tracks.

Originally Posted by SanDiegoRacer
Refresher, in pinions and spurs if you go up in one do you go down on another? Higher spur over lower spur, what’s the advantage here and same question for pinion gears. I remember there is a science to this, I just don’t remember the science.
I don't remember the science either, but with the spec-r you don't have to worry. 81t spur is pretty much our only option. 70t is way to small to get proper mesh for gearing purposes. I guess it would be possible to drop to the 78t spur if your running the spool. But I'm not sure if you could reach proper gearing with that one either. If you decide to spend the $$, please let us know.

Originally Posted by SanDiegoRacer
And last, the MIP drivetrain set up. Is it worth it, have any of you noticed better performance or any other types of details that would validate the cost? Just thinking about this since I will be rebuilding my diffs once my PT oils arrive if it’s worth getting and installing at that time. Thanks everyone in advance
I've been told by someone that installed it, the center drive line of the MIP setup is a noticeable difference. While the corners was also a difference, but not as noticeable.

The real question is, is it worth the cost? That boils down to one thing for me. Can you consistently put in runs with no mistakes or crashes? Then yes, it will get you the few 10ths to stay at the top and always battle for the win.

If your like me, and a mistake free run is an occasional dream, then no, it is not worth it to me.

Same logic with ceramic bearings in my mind.
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Old 02-02-2018, 10:33 AM
  #3506  
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Ahh makes sense now on the gearing, didn’t know this motor was that bad ass but at least now I know. And yeah,far from worrying about 10ths of a second right now so I will save that money for something else. Just so much interesting add on’s and replacement parts out there, aluminum and composite . But I don’t want to be that guy who has all this cool stuff and can’t drive for crap to utilize it or know exactly what it’s purpose really is to appreciate it.
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Old 02-02-2018, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by ljungberg
Did more testing of the car yesterday and now It Begins to feel pretty dialed.

Changed diff fluids to 7k in rear and front, run AE slipper in the middle. Now it behaves much better on high grip carpet than with thicker fluids in the front. A nice feel of Power and much easier to Control.

The rear shocks was drilled to 2mm and 800 oil. A huge difference now when landing. The shocks goes in nice and Easy and then rebound in a nice way on the track.

I have been working a lot with the body roll in the back and need some suggestions what to look at. When exit a long corner at high speed I want the car to "sweep". No the cars rear have a tendency to come out when hitting the throttle. Maybe it could be the slipper that needs to be loosen, did not have time to check that yesterday. But is there a general rule for avoiding the rear to come out when accelerating out of corners?

Had a team driver testing the car yesterday and his verdict was that the car is now totally on the right way just work with this and the car will be among the fastest at the track.

I can also say that I have not had any more bulk failures After mounting the Exotek bulk strenghtener in the front and going back for stock front deck. This car slowly comes back to me now as the perfect 1/10 4wd buggy.
If the rear is coming out on throttle I'd suggest you go back to a center diff. If you're really adamant about running a slipper then I would say try a either a higher rear roll center or a little bit more antisquat. Both of those will affect your off power handling as well so be prepared for that.
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Old 02-02-2018, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by SanDiegoRacer
I have see a few of you refer to a brand or abbreviation for a shock oil called “PT” but I can’t seem to find anything on this. What does the PT stand for? Thanks
PT Racing Oil
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Old 02-02-2018, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by JRSlash
Whats the weight difference to say... an AE aluminum pinion or the polypro pinions?
I don't have any of those brands of pinions, I've just been running some random gears that had in my pit box from many years ago.

Originally Posted by ezlight
Nice, those weren't even on my radar. What is the weight of them with collar and set screw?
I'm measuring 2.0g




Parma slot gear spur gear is 0.9g though not as durable as the carbon gear



6.3g for a standard aluminum gear

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Old 02-02-2018, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by SanDiegoRacer
Ok here’s my few questions for today, first with the Tekin pro spec 13.5 it seems as though everyone is running between 21-23 pinion gears. Would there be any other reason to go up or down there? Refresher, in pinions and spurs if you go up in one do you go down on another? Higher spur over lower spur, what’s the advantage here and same question for pinion gears. I remember there is a science to this, I just don’t remember the science. And last, the MIP drivetrain set up. Is it worth it, have any of you noticed better performance or any other types of details that would validate the cost? Just thinking about this since I will be rebuilding my diffs once my PT oils arrive if it’s worth getting and installing at that time. Thanks everyone in advance
I'm assuming you are running at SDRC and from what I've been told most there are running a 24/25 pinion with the 81 if they have the spec r 13.5. Talk to the guys at the counter, or anyone there, they are pretty helpful. I'll be running the same setup when the motor is back in stock.
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