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Old 05-13-2019, 06:33 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:
  • Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
  • Gear differentials (all 3)
  • Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
  • Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
  • Reverse bellcrank steering system
  • Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • 8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
  • 13mm big bore shocks
  • 3.5mm shock shafts
  • Droop screws

Videos
Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
  • Preference for Associated factory team pinions
  • Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
  • Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
  • Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
  • For comparison:
  • B64 is 2.47:1
  • 22-4 is 2.4:1
  • YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels
  • B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
  • 22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
  • B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
  • 22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!


Build Tips:
  • When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head

  • Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock

  • Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification

  • Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment

  • Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
  • To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
  • pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
    More shock build tips here
  • Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
  • Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.

  • When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
  • When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
  • If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.

  • Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings


  • Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494


  • Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

    This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

    Joey A.

    So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

    -Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

    -Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

    -Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

    -Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

    -Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

    -Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

    Sorry for the shity grammar,
    TJR

    Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

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Old 01-21-2018, 07:44 AM
  #3286  
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Originally Posted by Cain
Sounds like going with a slightly spur, maybe 78T or so will do the trick.
If you're running one of the slippers yes, for us center diff guys running mod there isn't another option I'm aware of.
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Old 01-21-2018, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by SnotRkt
Are you using the B64 Schelle slipper? If so what else do I need to get it to fit the EB?
110mm front center drive shaft for the B64
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Old 01-21-2018, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
110mm front center drive shaft for the B64
So the slipper setup drops in with no other shims or anything?
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Old 01-21-2018, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by SnotRkt
So the slipper setup drops in with no other shims or anything?
That’s what I’m told. Mine is on the way so I can’t say for sure. I was told you need a piece of fuel tube in each end front out drives.
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Old 01-21-2018, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by SnotRkt
So the slipper setup drops in with no other shims or anything?
The Schelle slipper measures exactly the same length as my Tekno center diff, just requires the rear center drive shaft from the B64D with the center diff. Can pick them up cheap from the kit dismantlers online(probably the stock 64 AE slipper for that matter as well if you want to go that route).

I run O-rings in the front cups to ensure the bone doesn't go too far one way or the other.
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Old 01-21-2018, 07:40 PM
  #3291  
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Anyone know why the shocks are built only emulsion style in the manual?Is there some reason for not using bladders as an option as well?
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Old 01-21-2018, 09:32 PM
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I had the chance to drive a few of these lately, just wanted to post about how impressed I was. I drive a B64D with pucks and titanium, and my car is fast... but the Tekno is quite a different animal.

There are probably 6-8 guys at the track with EB410s now and I have driven 3 of them. In a 3-Main night, one of these guys was an A main driver, one was a B main driver, and one was a C main guy. We race on indoor hard packed dirt with Clay tires, and I got to try the car across a variety of Track conditions.

C main guy got his car first, and had added a bunch of weight to the back but was otherwise close to box setup. The car didn’t have enough steering off power, but jumped and landed very well. I was at least a half second off the pace, so I advised him to stiffen it up and try to dial in some off power steering (wheelbase, diffs, etc). I was amazed at how free the drivetrain was, and even more shocked when he told me that was with 0 shimming needed (don’t ask me how much time I have spent shimming my B64 perfectly).

B main guy got his car second, and went HAM on the upgrades, car was very light and not weighed down in the back. I was only a couple tenths off of the pace, but the car still didn’t have enough off-power steering to carry speed through 180s. You would either understeer if you came in too hot, or be nearly stopped in the middle of the corner even when you hit the line perfectly. My big takeaway from this was that the rear weight being absent actually made the car a lot better. Given how soft the car felt (making tons of grip) I was actually surprised at how well the car jumped and landed without bottoming out. I felt like my B64 would not jump and land that well with a spring package that soft.

A main guy and I are pretty evenly matched on the Track, and he had done quite a bit of work on the car and setup by the time I got to drive it. I drove it right after a club race finished, and put down a lap a couple tenths faster than I went in my 64 all night within the first 2 minutes. This guy had done the testing with different diff fluid, wheelbase, and Ackermann to get the thing to steer in harder off power, and the car is unbelievably dialed. It is more forgiving on landing than my 64 (which itself was much more forgiving than the 22-4 it replaced) and it is especially good at letting you get on the power without getting unsettled after a landing.

I haven’t plunked down an order for one yet, but I think this car is a serious threat to the XB4/B64/YZ4-SF layout and design in the same way that laydown 2wd cars have made standup cars look like turds.
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Old 01-22-2018, 07:11 AM
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Originally Posted by suzukipro

If you're running one of the slippers yes, for us center diff guys running mod there isn't another option I'm aware of.
Originally Posted by Tijuana_Taxi
The Schelle slipper measures exactly the same length as my Tekno center diff, just requires the rear center drive shaft from the B64D with the center diff. Can pick them up cheap from the kit dismantlers online(probably the stock 64 AE slipper for that matter as well if you want to go that route).

I run O-rings in the front cups to ensure the bone doesn't go too far one way or the other.
Tijuana is right on there. Definitely you want orings for the cups or the front bone can slide out. Only thing else I noticed is that the getting the diff in an out for me personally was bit more of a chore. But I don't exactly plan to be pulling it a bunch either. I may even try this outdoors.


I'll see about putting the Vision Racing pads this week and when Feb 3rd rolls around give it a try.


As for b1narych0ice comment, its true, love the way these just steer. I wish I had a bit more time locally to practice here and really dial in setup, but it was good enough to lead the amain the whole way till an ending bobble.

Just need to solve a slight bit of jump bounce, so any tips on that let me know, i'll post my setup but I did go with the 2.0 pistons rear.
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Old 01-22-2018, 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Cain
Tijuana is right on there. Definitely you want orings for the cups or the front bone can slide out. Only thing else I noticed is that the getting the diff in an out for me personally was bit more of a chore. But I don't exactly plan to be pulling it a bunch either. I may even try this outdoors.


I'll see about putting the Vision Racing pads this week and when Feb 3rd rolls around give it a try.


As for b1narych0ice comment, its true, love the way these just steer. I wish I had a bit more time locally to practice here and really dial in setup, but it was good enough to lead the amain the whole way till an ending bobble.

Just need to solve a slight bit of jump bounce, so any tips on that let me know, i'll post my setup but I did go with the 2.0 pistons rear.
I have liked how 2.1x2 and 725 in the rear with orange springs helped the bouncing. It'll still rebound a bit if you have a lot of big jumps hitting flat landings but if you can even halfway hit the downside of jumps this settles very well into the next turn.
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Old 01-22-2018, 08:05 AM
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try pink rears and thank me later
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Old 01-22-2018, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
try pink rears and thank me later
Is the team still running weight in front of the C block? If so how much may I ask
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Old 01-22-2018, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by EbbTide
I have liked how 2.1x2 and 725 in the rear with orange springs helped the bouncing. It'll still rebound a bit if you have a lot of big jumps hitting flat landings but if you can even halfway hit the downside of jumps this settles very well into the next turn.
Thanks, yeah just a slight bit of pack bounce but there really isn't anything to downside on that jump consistenly.

Originally Posted by Bob Barry
try pink rears and thank me later
Cool, I'll give these a look. Need to place an order anyway. Should I adjust my pistons too (I run 2.0s right now) and oil to something or just go with what I have initially? (oil is quick so no worries there, just don't have 725cst on hand, up to 700)
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Old 01-22-2018, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Tijuana_Taxi
Is the team still running weight in front of the C block? If so how much may I ask
25g or 50g depending on grip / layout, etc. I THINK they used 50 in mod and we used 25 in 13.5, but I honestly forget.

Try both and see which one you like better, but I would start with 25 first.
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Old 01-22-2018, 08:56 AM
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Hello everyone,I’m the new guy here.Just wanted to say that it’s not everyday you get a chance to read so many interesting opinions and reviews and truly benefit from them all without seeing someone bashing another or arguing like children over lego’s. So after reading through this entire thread I decided to see what all the hype was about. Being new to San Diego I looked up my local track and headed to SDRC,Watched some drivers and asked a few questions.I then talked to the guys working there,Man did I get a ton of helpful information from Adam and after two trips out to watch drivers I knew I needed to quit watching and start driving so I bought it. I spent this past Saturday building it,and Sunday finishing it with last minute adds. Titanium turnbuckles and a front sway bar kit,nothing to serious but today i will be hitting the track and I’m so looking forward to my first donkey flip,lol. So this is a thank you to everyone posting,I find it very helpful. The guys at SDRC,thank you for all your help seriously. And Tekno for building something inspiring enough to bring an old guy back into a hobby he enjoyed. Looking forward to fine tuning with you all.
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Old 01-22-2018, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Cain
Thanks, yeah just a slight bit of pack bounce but there really isn't anything to downside on that jump consistenly.



Cool, I'll give these a look. Need to place an order anyway. Should I adjust my pistons too (I run 2.0s right now) and oil to something or just go with what I have initially? (oil is quick so no worries there, just don't have 725cst on hand, up to 700)
For you, you need to look at your facebook message and run Brian's setup (Cain's on carpet not clay)

For everyone else run Red front with 600 and 1.7 piston, pink rear with 2.0 and 550.
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