R/C Tech Forums

Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Tekno RC EB410 Thread >

Tekno RC EB410 Thread

Register
FAQ
Members List
Social Groups
Wiki Posts
Calendar
Search
Today's Posts
Mark Forums Read
Vendor Directory
Like Tree2421Likes

Tekno RC EB410 Thread

    Hide Wikipost
Old 05-13-2019, 06:33 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:
  • Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
  • Gear differentials (all 3)
  • Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
  • Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
  • Reverse bellcrank steering system
  • Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • 8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
  • 13mm big bore shocks
  • 3.5mm shock shafts
  • Droop screws

Videos
Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
  • Preference for Associated factory team pinions
  • Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
  • Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
  • Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
  • For comparison:
  • B64 is 2.47:1
  • 22-4 is 2.4:1
  • YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels
  • B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
  • 22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
  • B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
  • 22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!


Build Tips:
  • When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head

  • Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock

  • Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification

  • Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment

  • Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
  • To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
  • pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
    More shock build tips here
  • Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
  • Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.

  • When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
  • When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
  • If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.

  • Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings


  • Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494


  • Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

    This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

    Joey A.

    So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

    -Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

    -Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

    -Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

    -Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

    -Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

    -Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

    Sorry for the shity grammar,
    TJR

    Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

Print Wikipost

   
Old 12-07-2017, 11:26 AM
  #2716  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (18)
 
Allen Drebi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 337
Trader Rating: 18 (100%+)
Default
Originally Posted by frdtrkguy
I hear ya. But I only really need some wings right now. Ill prob just wait until I need some more stuff from them before I order.
try this. it is very strong and heavy. too heavy for 2WD


https://www.amainhobbies.com/proline...250-17/p296101
Allen Drebi is offline  
Reply
Old 12-07-2017, 11:33 AM
  #2717  
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
 
Cain's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: West Fargo, North Dakota
Posts: 34,378
Trader Rating: 294 (100%+)
Default
holy crap the kits are in stock at tower!
ezlight likes this.
Cain is offline  
Reply
Old 12-07-2017, 12:39 PM
  #2718  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
 
tommytom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Lockport, IL
Posts: 283
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default
All, has anyone come from the 22-4? I was running a 22-4 1.0 until I had to stop racing at the end of 2015. I loved the way the car drove, but hated working on it. Belt replacements were a PITA. For those of you that own the EB410 is it pretty easy to work on? Would you buy the car again? what are the weak points on the car, which parts fail the most? Are they any must have option parts? Thanks in advance!
tommytom is offline  
Reply
Old 12-07-2017, 12:46 PM
  #2719  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (39)
 
EbbTide's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Bay Area, Ca
Posts: 4,264
Trader Rating: 39 (100%+)
Default
Originally Posted by Cain
holy crap the kits are in stock at tower!
Hurry someone play the lotto, Fate is taking a break lol.
EbbTide is offline  
Reply
Old 12-07-2017, 01:12 PM
  #2720  
Tech Elite
 
vito's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: roseburg or
Posts: 3,936
Default
are the shock caps drilled out with a 1/16 bit from the box i have not opend the bag to fine out?
vito is offline  
Reply
Old 12-07-2017, 01:17 PM
  #2721  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (39)
 
EbbTide's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Bay Area, Ca
Posts: 4,264
Trader Rating: 39 (100%+)
Default
Originally Posted by vito
are the shock caps drilled out with a 1/16 bit from the box i have not opend the bag to fine out?
They are drilled but there is some flashing left over that is why they recommend using the but in order to clear any flashing left over.
EbbTide is offline  
Reply
Old 12-07-2017, 01:18 PM
  #2722  
Tech Elite
 
vito's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: roseburg or
Posts: 3,936
Default
ok ty
vito is offline  
Reply
Old 12-07-2017, 01:22 PM
  #2723  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (44)
 
FastPete's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Orland Park IL
Posts: 5,311
Trader Rating: 44 (100%+)
Default
Originally Posted by EbbTide
The lunsford shock mounts are up for sale on their website. And FierceRC is doing a pre order as well
In stock now
FastPete is offline  
Reply
Old 12-07-2017, 01:31 PM
  #2724  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Ohio
Posts: 269
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default
Originally Posted by FastPete
In stock now
Weighed 'em yet?
blueflagger is offline  
Reply
Old 12-07-2017, 03:55 PM
  #2725  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (40)
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Oregon
Posts: 505
Trader Rating: 40 (100%+)
Default
Originally Posted by tommytom
All, has anyone come from the 22-4? I was running a 22-4 1.0 until I had to stop racing at the end of 2015. I loved the way the car drove, but hated working on it. Belt replacements were a PITA. For those of you that own the EB410 is it pretty easy to work on? Would you buy the car again? what are the weak points on the car, which parts fail the most? Are they any must have option parts? Thanks in advance!
Not even close. Spur gear change 6 screws to remove the center diff. 4 screws + remove sway bars and front or rear diff is out. Entire front or rear clip is 4 screws + chassis brace in rear or steering plate in front. It's a pleasure to work on.

Weak points/upgrades have been mentioned often: turnbuckles and shock stanfoffs are weak points and alum servo horn, alum shock caps and I think carbon diff brace are must have upgrades. If you plan on running on carpet then will need front sway bars, red front springs and red or orange rear Springs.
E-Mann is offline  
Reply
Old 12-07-2017, 04:15 PM
  #2726  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (96)
 
thumper_pa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: freedom,pa
Posts: 2,019
Trader Rating: 96 (96%+)
Default
Originally Posted by tommytom
All, has anyone come from the 22-4? I was running a 22-4 1.0 until I had to stop racing at the end of 2015. I loved the way the car drove, but hated working on it. Belt replacements were a PITA. For those of you that own the EB410 is it pretty easy to work on? Would you buy the car again? what are the weak points on the car, which parts fail the most? Are they any must have option parts? Thanks in advance!
Well I can give you a opinion on one end as I’ve not gotten any track time on the EB410 but from what I’ve read and talked to guys about it the car is incredible drive wise best way one guy said it was it didn’t feel fast but I’ve turned the fastest lap times I ever have with a 4wd buggy and best race results the car is consistent and easy to drive like I said those are second handed opinions now build wise and ease of working on the 22-4 sucked at best they were ok durability wise a pain to work on but was a decent car now the EB410 is crazy built well and an absolute enjoyable experience building and in building surveying the maintenance end of things I think it will be one of the easiest cars I’ve owned to maintain I’m a diehard fan of mugen because of there durability and reliability and this car is right on par with those aspects to the point that once I get the wheel time in if it drives like I’ve read and researched I may end up going all tekno 1/8 scale and I never thought I’d even consider giving up my mugens but this car is a cool arse lil buggy imo and I’ve not gotten any track time yet but based on the build and the level of support they seem to have you’d have to be completely crazy or given the 22-4 to take it over the EB410 and I’d just sell the 22-4 and buy the EB410 at that point so hopefully someone that’s gotten track time will chime in but I literally went straight from my totally decked out 22-4 to this EB410 and IMO I’d never in a million years go back to a 22-4
Last edited by thumper_pa; 12-08-2017 at 04:57 AM.
thumper_pa is offline  
Reply
Old 12-07-2017, 04:55 PM
  #2727  
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
 
RazorRC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 1,896
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default
Originally Posted by thumper_pa
so hopefully someone that’s gotten track time will chime in
Here's my thoughts on EB410 vs. 22-4 2.0 vs. B64D. I own them all.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dnq5P2hjLAA
lbckevin and Antimullet like this.
RazorRC is offline  
Reply
Old 12-07-2017, 05:25 PM
  #2728  
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 1,046
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default
Originally Posted by tommytom
All, has anyone come from the 22-4? I was running a 22-4 1.0 until I had to stop racing at the end of 2015. I loved the way the car drove, but hated working on it. Belt replacements were a PITA. For those of you that own the EB410 is it pretty easy to work on? Would you buy the car again? what are the weak points on the car, which parts fail the most? Are they any must have option parts? Thanks in advance!
I've ran a 22-4 the past two seasons outdoors on hard packed dirt. The buggy handled amazingly well as everyone has described and was plenty durable for me. I ran a 5.5 and a 6.5 motor in it and that I learned meant you had to stay on top of replacing the pulleys every 4-6 months, running twice a week. Ya, I had a belt break once and a spur go bad and it took me a while to remove it, at home, basically it was like open heart surgery, lol. Anyhow yes, the Tekno is of course easier to work on, all shaft drive buggies are easy to work on in comparison. The Tekno drives closely to the 22-4, in my opinion, in that it makes you look good, maybe better than you are! I was able to put the power down with the Tekno where I had to be easier on the throttle with the 22-4, for some reason I was always trying to increase rear grip, not so with the Tekno, just line it up and pull the trigger and she goes. The best upgrades have already been mentioned above - cf top plate, aluminum shock caps and the usual tuning items, springs and sway bars. I'm looking forward to running my Tekno next summer but I have my sons 22-4 as a back up
HeavyD99 is offline  
Reply
Old 12-08-2017, 12:10 PM
  #2729  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
 
tommytom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Lockport, IL
Posts: 283
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default
Well I pulled the trigger on the EB410. Im in the process of moving from Chicago to AZ. It doesn't seem like the local track has much parts support for Tekno, so I will be ordering from AMAIN mostly. Here is my order
rvrslt1 likes this.
tommytom is offline  
Reply
Old 12-08-2017, 12:16 PM
  #2730  
Tech Master
iTrader: (43)
 
WonTonsChicken's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Martinsburg, WV
Posts: 1,532
Trader Rating: 43 (100%+)
Default
Originally Posted by tommytom
Well I pulled the trigger on the EB410. Im in the process of moving from Chicago to AZ. It doesn't seem like the local track has much parts support for Tekno, so I will be ordering from AMAIN mostly. Here is my order
Might consider some rod ends, and o-rings for regular maintenance.
tommytom likes this.
WonTonsChicken is offline  
Reply

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Advanced Search

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.