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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

05-13-2019, 06:33 AM - Wikipost

R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread

Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.

Last edit by: tobamiester

Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:

Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
Gear differentials (all 3)
Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
Reverse bellcrank steering system
Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
13mm big bore shocks
3.5mm shock shafts
Droop screws

Videos

Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:

Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.

Preference for Associated factory team pinions
Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
For comparison:
B64 is 2.47:1
22-4 is 2.4:1
YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels

B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Ryan Lutz Setups
Instruction Manual
EB410 Resources
Ryan Lutz IOCC blog
PT Oil CST conversion Chart
List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:

GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.
Harbor Freight 0.5mm - 3.0mm bit set * 2.1mm not included

Aftermarket Upgrades:

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Build Tips:

When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head
Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock
Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification
Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment
Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
More shock build tips here
Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.
When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.
Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings
Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494
Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

Joey A.

So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

-Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

-Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

-Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

-Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

-Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

-Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

Sorry for the shity grammar,
TJR

Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

Exotek Sway Bar Mount http://www.exotekracing.com/eb410-re...ar-mount-6061/

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10-22-2017, 06:32 PM

#1801

tntpower

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http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr1654x...d-ae-sc10-4x4/

For B64 wheels

JoeC likes this.

10-22-2017, 06:37 PM

#1802

AJrollin

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Quote:

Originally Posted by billdelong

The owner of the car with the broken parts is Richard Kahuna, not sure if he posted pics of these broken parts on FacebI know generally as a society we are going backwards however Tekno makes a badass car but they're not able to help with reading you'll have to do that on your ownok, he let another driver borrow his car and that guy was the one who went full wood into the wall. Main reason I posted the pic here is with many folks asking to see pics of broken parts... I just checked FB and also saw the front shock shafts are snapping at the threads of the pistons and more than one occurrence of the out drives snapping, these will be more parts that I plan to stock up on. Since I plan to run 13.5T, I doubt I'll be snapping any out drives. Mod classes are virtually non existent for the buggy classes in my area.

Hmm...appears its just a screw that backed out of the shock shaft because of no Loctite.seems like almost all issues are lack of following the instructions...not sure how Tekno would be able to help with that

offroad dude likes this.

10-22-2017, 07:12 PM

#1803

Jimdog

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i got to run mine today on black carpet. ran pretty well stock. i am using a maclan 8.5t mod motor and settled on a 27t pinion. seems pretty high but temps are great! the 21t pinion was really slow. this was on gone bananas racing foams. https://youtu.be/hJl09G4PuN0

10-23-2017, 06:18 AM

#1804

rgrg2

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Kit

I just saw a NIB kit for sale on theBay

10-23-2017, 07:02 AM

#1805

WonTonsChicken

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Got some paint on her! Feelin great about this body!

Attached Thumbnails

lbckevin, keyesgood, mustangkillaz and 5 others like this.

10-23-2017, 07:21 AM

#1806

Cain

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awesome paint job!

Managed to locate one of these for what should be a good price. Looking forward to seeing what is what.

10-23-2017, 07:35 AM

#1807

WonTonsChicken

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Thanks Cain! This lil guy will fit in nicely with the fleet!

10-23-2017, 07:40 AM

#1808

EbbTide

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Cain

awesome paint job!

Managed to locate one of these for what should be a good price. Looking forward to seeing what is what.

Did you actually manage to get a used one already? Lol

10-23-2017, 08:28 AM

#1809

Krio

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For the record:
Properly produced, appropriately alloyed steel is stronger than properly produced, appropriately alloyed titanium when made to the exact same dimensions.

Coutnerpoint:
Most steel turnbuckles in the RC world aren't ideal alloys or manufactured to the tightest tolerances while Lunsford titanium turnbuckles are.

10-23-2017, 08:40 AM

#1810

Wildcat1971

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What diff oils are you running on indoor low to medium low grip?

rcnut87 likes this.

10-23-2017, 09:07 AM

#1811

Cain

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Quote:

Originally Posted by EbbTide

Did you actually manage to get a used one already? Lol

deal came up that was pretty darn good I thought

So I figured oh well, its only money.

EbbTide, jmcelroy42 and rvrslt1 like this.

10-23-2017, 09:10 AM

#1812

EbbTide

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Cain

deal came up that was pretty darn good I thought

So I figured oh well, its only money.

*checks tower hobbies order* oh, well then you'll probably have yours before me

Are you going to be running it on carpet for the fall/winter?

10-23-2017, 09:15 AM

#1813

Cain

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lol yeah that sucks man on tower thing. If the vehicle looks good I may see about picking up one for my daughter too.

It will be ran on carpet this fall, then dirt in the spring / summer.

I'll most likely run it with 13.5 power. Depending on what I see at the local track as they are changing it around, I may see how competitive it is in the mod class and if its off, grab a mod motor.

10-23-2017, 10:39 AM

#1814

mustangkillaz

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Quote:

Originally Posted by WonTonsChicken

Got some paint on her! Feelin great about this body!

Nice scheme.

10-23-2017, 10:51 AM

#1815

greener74

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Quote:

Originally Posted by AJrollin

The center diff just took a couple times to get used to putting back, but now its a breeze..definitely an easy car to work on...that's if you need to.

What is your method for putting the center diff back in? I had troubles this weekend and took about a half an hour trying to come up with an easy method. What I ended up doing was taking the top front screws out of the motor mount, and the bottom two screws out of the plastic rear diff mount. Then you can pull the top plate with the rear mount still attached. That gave me more room to get the bones back in.

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