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Old 05-13-2019, 06:33 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:
  • Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
  • Gear differentials (all 3)
  • Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
  • Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
  • Reverse bellcrank steering system
  • Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • 8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
  • 13mm big bore shocks
  • 3.5mm shock shafts
  • Droop screws

Videos
Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
  • Preference for Associated factory team pinions
  • Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
  • Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
  • Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
  • For comparison:
  • B64 is 2.47:1
  • 22-4 is 2.4:1
  • YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels
  • B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
  • 22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
  • B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
  • 22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!


Build Tips:
  • When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head

  • Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock

  • Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification

  • Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment

  • Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
  • To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
  • pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
    More shock build tips here
  • Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
  • Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.

  • When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
  • When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
  • If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.

  • Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings


  • Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494


  • Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

    This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

    Joey A.

    So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

    -Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

    -Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

    -Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

    -Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

    -Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

    -Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

    Sorry for the shity grammar,
    TJR

    Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

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Old 09-15-2017, 01:33 PM
  #1126  
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Originally Posted by Ruffdog1
I plan on running Tekin electronics with a 13.5 in my EB410. Should i spend the extra money and get the new Tekin RS Pro or save my money and get the RS Gen 2 ESC? The RS Gen 2 is cheaper and lighter. I don't mind spending more money though for performance benefit. I also plan on getting the new Tekin spec R 13.5 motor. Any thoughts?
If your going to spend for the spec R, get the pro BE
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Old 09-15-2017, 01:40 PM
  #1127  
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Originally Posted by ezlight
Time to learn some setup skills.

Tekno cant cover every setup situation, as what we call high bite in the northeast, the west coast guys would consider loose. It's the same thing with north to south. Add to that, that EVERY driver is different, and wants something different. People keep chasing Joe and ryans setup, and that the wrong approach. I can pretty much bet that Joe and ryan has more steering that we can handle.

Base setups should get you close. Maybe a change of springs, change diffs. (I would assume you would want lighter oil/springs and lighter diffs to make the kit setup close to what you need.)

The box setup is geared to the intermidiate driver on high bite. I wouldn't change much besides what I said above. Since kit setup is 15-15-7...I'd try 7-7-5....753....553....That would be where I would put your range to play with for loose and bumpy.

You know what you needed to do to Joe's setup to make the 8th's work for you, it's more than likely going to be the same direction with this.







Everyone want's to be spoon fed setup sheets on a car no one has yet. It's not going to work that way. The onus is now on us because we are trying a new car. We now have to go back to old school, and figure stuff out again. Trial and error boys, let's go get it.

No chasing setup sheets this time around. game on, let's see who can make this car dance.
I'll have my laps on it soon.
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Old 09-15-2017, 01:55 PM
  #1128  
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Originally Posted by ezlight
...
Everyone want's to be spoon fed setup sheets on a car no one has yet. It's not going to work that way. The onus is now on us because we are trying a new car. We now have to go back to old school, and figure stuff out again. Trial and error boys, let's go get it.

No chasing setup sheets this time around. game on, let's see who can make this car dance.
Considering the car is actually pretty radical in its design over what is commonly being pushed out there, having those who actually designed the car providing recommendations on where to go with setups can save a lot of frustration and time.

I saw plenty of guys, myself included, drop the SCT410 due to the fact that our common knowledge on how to fight the nose down issue versus traction issue was not working for the car. The latest setups in my case where I run from large 1/8 to tight 1/10 loose rough conditions fixed the issue and were completely opposite of where the common techniques were going, no battery mod, weight on the rear, etc.

Did I modify some of settings from one of the setup sheets? Sure. But I was already close with something to go off of. And that is what I believe people are looking for, especially with the way the vehicle is designed.
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Old 09-15-2017, 02:07 PM
  #1129  
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Originally Posted by Ruffdog1
I plan on running Tekin electronics with a 13.5 in my EB410. Should i spend the extra money and get the new Tekin RS Pro or save my money and get the RS Gen 2 ESC? The RS Gen 2 is cheaper and lighter. I don't mind spending more money though for performance benefit. I also plan on getting the new Tekin spec R 13.5 motor. Any thoughts?
I'd go with the RS Pro. The lower resistance coupled with the ability to handle mod, should you choose to run that down the line, gives it the edge.

With the Spec R motor, I've found you need to gear down about 4 teeth on the pinion versus what we recommend in the manual for the best performance. The motor is a screamer.
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Old 09-15-2017, 03:26 PM
  #1130  
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni
I'd go with the RS Pro. The lower resistance coupled with the ability to handle mod, should you choose to run that down the line, gives it the edge.

With the Spec R motor, I've found you need to gear down about 4 teeth on the pinion versus what we recommend in the manual for the best performance. The motor is a screamer.
Thank You!!
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Old 09-15-2017, 05:42 PM
  #1131  
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Exotek Racing bling is in the works..


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Old 09-15-2017, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by DriveItLikeYSIT
Exotek Racing bling is in the works..


Bye money
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Old 09-15-2017, 06:22 PM
  #1133  
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Carbon fiber upgrades from Tekno RC..Compliments of RC Networks unboxing video !!

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Old 09-15-2017, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Cain
Considering the car is actually pretty radical in its design over what is commonly being pushed out there, having those who actually designed the car providing recommendations on where to go with setups can save a lot of frustration and time.

I saw plenty of guys, myself included, drop the SCT410 due to the fact that our common knowledge on how to fight the nose down issue versus traction issue was not working for the car. The latest setups in my case where I run from large 1/8 to tight 1/10 loose rough conditions fixed the issue and were completely opposite of where the common techniques were going, no battery mod, weight on the rear, etc.

Did I modify some of settings from one of the setup sheets? Sure. But I was already close with something to go off of. And that is what I believe people are looking for, especially with the way the vehicle is designed.
I think you'll see a suggestion show up for a staring point, though with the stock being intermediate level driver for medium bite, it might actually be quite nice for a better driver on low bite. That being said, I'm sure many will need to work on the setup further to match their driving style and track, but I don't think it'll be as bad a start as many seem to think.
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Old 09-15-2017, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by DriveItLikeYSIT
Exotek Racing bling is in the works..


Sweet. Any chance the bling would be realeased around the same time the car releases.
I'm a bling whore 😂😂
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Old 09-15-2017, 07:22 PM
  #1136  
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Default Tires

Any one know what a good tires would be to start with on this buggy for a medium bite track. Already running a Tekno ebuggy with blockades and intercepts
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Old 09-15-2017, 08:40 PM
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Default unboxing vids!

+ YouTube Video
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+ YouTube Video
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Last edited by RCBuddha; 09-16-2017 at 02:36 PM. Reason: fixed links
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Old 09-16-2017, 06:57 AM
  #1138  
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10mm thick front towers
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Old 09-16-2017, 08:11 AM
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Default Live Build....

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Last edited by RCBuddha; 09-16-2017 at 02:36 PM.
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Old 09-16-2017, 08:44 AM
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I don't remember a car having this much anticipation since the JConcepts BJ4... another wheeler, coincidentally. It arguably breathed new life into the class when it was almost without a pulse. AE had publicly turned its back on 4WD, and the most mainstream kit available at the time - the XXX G+ - was made of glass. Seriously, you could downside a jump perfectly with that thing and still break both front spindle carriers. I had a serious love/hate relationship with that car. Wonderful to drive, but frustrating as hell to own.

Anyway, it was the BJ4's design that became the new standard, and has been iterated/refined to death for the past decade+.
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