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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

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Old 05-13-2019, 06:33 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:
  • Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
  • Gear differentials (all 3)
  • Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
  • Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
  • Reverse bellcrank steering system
  • Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • 8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
  • 13mm big bore shocks
  • 3.5mm shock shafts
  • Droop screws

Videos
Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
  • Preference for Associated factory team pinions
  • Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
  • Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
  • Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
  • For comparison:
  • B64 is 2.47:1
  • 22-4 is 2.4:1
  • YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels
  • B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
  • 22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
  • B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
  • 22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!


Build Tips:
  • When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head

  • Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock

  • Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification

  • Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment

  • Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
  • To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
  • pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
    More shock build tips here
  • Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
  • Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.

  • When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
  • When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
  • If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.

  • Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings


  • Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494


  • Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

    This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

    Joey A.

    So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

    -Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

    -Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

    -Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

    -Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

    -Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

    -Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

    Sorry for the shity grammar,
    TJR

    Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

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Old 09-05-2017, 12:38 PM
  #916  
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Hey Matt, will that awesome, handy dandy shock tool work with the eb410? If not, will it be revised, or a new one released?
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Old 09-05-2017, 02:09 PM
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now that is really carpet he is running on, looks brand new, wonder how often they change it out. ozite imo is stuff you put on speaker boxes


Originally Posted by DriveItLikeYSIT
Joe Bornhorst's EB410

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Old 09-05-2017, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
I know there's a lot of speculation on this car and aftermarket, and rightly so. I just want to add that historically Tekno vehicles have not needed much, if anything other than what's in the box. My EB48.4 has the servo horn. That's it.

I have the SCT410.3 and there's a handful of parts that I added, but they are all Tekno parts. (alum A,B,C,D blocks, .4 ackerman, emulsion caps, etc.). None of those are needed. I could have run the plastic blocks and shock caps and been fine. I actually may have been better off because of the weight savings.

So before anyone rushes to judgement on the car, let's wait until we all get into our hands. We all know that if there's money to be made on accessories, JConcepts, Avid, Schelle, Exotec, all will jump on the bandwagon and bang stuff out. We all like bling. We all like to support our favorite brands.

P.S. you better believe that I'll have one of my 2 EB410's totally pimped with everything Jason has to send me from JConcepts
So are you moving to Sacramento before the release....
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Old 09-05-2017, 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Cain
Run motiv motors now here. They are really torque monsters in 17.5 2wd buggy and 13.5 4wd buggy. I also run maclan motors but they are a bit more RPMish at least the standard versions. If I was to do a team edition, I would get the ultra torque rotor as well. Hopefully if they look into doing another motor revision they make one out of the box with it as its a nice setup.

If they are going to offer a specific sized spur gear for say 13.5, I am hopeful we can see that sooner than later to get it with the orders.
What 2wd and 4wd are you running and what gearing for both please
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Old 09-05-2017, 09:42 PM
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If they are going to offer a specific sized spur gear for say 13.5, I am hopeful we can see that sooner than later to get it with the orders.
I am thinking 81t might be there 13.5 spur. Not alot of room left to go any.
Big diff for lighter weight oils mean less flexibility when it comes to gearing.
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Old 09-05-2017, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Pinkz
now that is really carpet he is running on, looks brand new,
wonder how often they change it out. ozite imo is stuff you put on speaker boxes
Looks like loop style Olefin style carpet. Cheap at the big box stores and wears well.
As far as being new it could be a freshly converted track or its a section on a jump
recently replaced. I know if I was gonna do a photo op I would choose a fresh section of rug.

Artifical indoor surfaces are the future, like it or not. There are a lot of reasons why this
has been the dominate form of indoor racing in EU for quite a while.

Personally I think its a mistake on Tekno's part to not release a dedicated high grip kit.
With the specialization of certain wheeler components I expect Xray and Yokomo to follow AEs
lead and package there 4wd in the same way as the 2wd cars.

But then again maybe they are planning to offer 2 separate packages and we just have not seen
it yet.
Last edited by JsK; 09-05-2017 at 11:09 PM.
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Old 09-06-2017, 05:50 AM
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Originally Posted by JsK
Personally I think its a mistake on Tekno's part to not release a dedicated high grip kit. With the specialization of certain wheeler components I expect Xray and Yokomo to follow AEs lead and package there 4wd in the same way as the 2wd cars.
We should all wait and see. They have had this on carpet, and with setup changes geared towards carpet, it handled quite well, and had good results..

IMHO specialized kits are the results of poor engineering and lack of planning. I'd rather have option parts, IF needed. Like tekno always has.

What some fail to realize, is that the indoor tracks on the west coast are high grip. If those guys came to the east coast they would be lost and say our "high" grip tracks and medium at best.
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Old 09-06-2017, 05:59 AM
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Originally Posted by STLNLST
So are you moving to Sacramento before the release....
I won't even visit CA because I'm afraid if I do come out west, I won't go home!
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Old 09-06-2017, 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by STLNLST
What 2wd and 4wd are you running and what gearing for both please
I run a Yokomo DTM with the DT style transmission now for 2wd buggy 17.5 blinky, and a Hot Bodies D413 for 1/10 4wd buggy 13.5 blinky (its a mod class but I like this power setup).

Our track is very small and torque is king, so gearing is dependent on that. However, in general I start with some general FDR recommendations I found online for motors:

http://durangofansite.com/main.php?v...0&page=gearing

This has been a good starting point to work from, combined with the "longest straight versus temp" gearing method since I run these without an electronic boost/turbo.
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Old 09-06-2017, 06:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
I won't even visit CA because I'm afraid if I do come out west, I won't go home!
Why? 1.5 hour commutes something you enjoy? Maybe paying twice as much for gas than everyone else in the country?
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Old 09-06-2017, 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by DG Designs
Why? 1.5 hour commutes something you enjoy? Maybe paying twice as much for gas than everyone else in the country?
I would take that over subzero temps in the winter while still having 100 deg summers with high humidity
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Old 09-06-2017, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
I would take that over subzero temps in the winter while still having 100 deg summers with high humidity
I agree. We're spoiled with our weather in NorCal though it was recently hotter than the devils you-know-what lol
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Last edited by EbbTide; 09-06-2017 at 09:15 AM.
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Old 09-06-2017, 08:34 AM
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Speaking of gearing. Matt, is the FDR of the car something that can be released prior to the final info dump on Friday?

and speaking of the final dump, only 2 days away from the final info dump with more pictures!!!
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Old 09-06-2017, 09:18 AM
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Tekno does not need to make a dedicated high grip car, how do you know it's not adaptable? Look at kyosho,their 2wd buggy is ready for any track. All the buggy needs is a gear diff to run on carpet or Astro. Same with the 4wheeler. It's even ready for rear motor, all in one box. Let's judge it when it's widely available. I've never ran on carpet, so what would need to be changed on this buggy to make it ready for carpet or astro???? A 2wd maybe needs some changes for carpet but I don't see that for 4wd. A option on the center diff maybe? That's an easy fix
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Old 09-06-2017, 09:38 AM
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I'm supper excited for this buggy too! Join the Facebook group fan page for the Tekno RC EB410! --> Search Facebook for "Tekno RC EB410" to join
( www dot Facebook dot com /groups/366869753727204/ )
Last edited by Chad H.; 09-06-2017 at 10:38 AM.
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