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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

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R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:
  • Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
  • Gear differentials (all 3)
  • Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
  • Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
  • Reverse bellcrank steering system
  • Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • 8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
  • 13mm big bore shocks
  • 3.5mm shock shafts
  • Droop screws

Videos
Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
  • Preference for Associated factory team pinions
  • Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
  • Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
  • Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
  • For comparison:
  • B64 is 2.47:1
  • 22-4 is 2.4:1
  • YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels
  • B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
  • 22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
  • B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
  • 22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!


Build Tips:
  • When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head

  • Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock

  • Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification

  • Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment

  • Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
  • To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
  • pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
    More shock build tips here
  • Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
  • Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.

  • When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
  • When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
  • If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.

  • Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings


  • Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494


  • Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

    This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

    Joey A.

    So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

    -Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

    -Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

    -Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

    -Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

    -Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

    -Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

    Sorry for the shity grammar,
    TJR

    Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

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Old 09-06-2017, 10:20 AM
  #931  
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Originally Posted by ezlight View Post
Speaking of gearing. Matt, is the FDR of the car something that can be released prior to the final info dump on Friday?

and speaking of the final dump, only 2 days away from the final info dump with more pictures!!!
Internal ratio is 2.5:1. An 81 tooth spur comes with the kit. I've run down to a 18 tooth pinion and up to a 31 tooth with that spur gear depending on the motor I was running. So your FDR can be anywhere from 11.25:1 down to a 6.53:1 with the stock spur. And you might be able to run a slightly smaller or larger pinion than what I just listed, I haven't maxed out the mount yet because I didn't need to.
We plan on offering another spur size designed for 13.5 and 17.5 and there's a good chance we'll have a third gear in between those two for fine tuning your FDR or moving your motor closer to or further away from the cars centerline.
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Old 09-06-2017, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
Internal ratio is 2.5:1. An 81 tooth spur comes with the kit. I've run down to a 18 tooth pinion and up to a 31 tooth with that spur gear depending on the motor I was running. So your FDR can be anywhere from 11.25:1 down to a 6.53:1 with the stock spur. And you might be able to run a slightly smaller or larger pinion than what I just listed, I haven't maxed out the mount yet because I didn't need to.
We plan on offering another spur size designed for 13.5 and 17.5 and there's a good chance we'll have a third gear in between those two for fine tuning your FDR or moving your motor closer to or further away from the cars centerline.
Thanks for the updates Matt! It's nice to know the FDR is so wide with just the stock gear. And I'm sure the Aussies will greatly appreciate Tekno's addition of a 17.5 spur option I'm intrigued myself to see what a 17.5 wheeler can do.
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Old 09-06-2017, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
Internal ratio is 2.5:1. An 81 tooth spur comes with the kit. I've run down to a 18 tooth pinion and up to a 31 tooth with that spur gear depending on the motor I was running. So your FDR can be anywhere from 11.25:1 down to a 6.53:1 with the stock spur. And you might be able to run a slightly smaller or larger pinion than what I just listed, I haven't maxed out the mount yet because I didn't need to.
We plan on offering another spur size designed for 13.5 and 17.5 and there's a good chance we'll have a third gear in between those two for fine tuning your FDR or moving your motor closer to or further away from the cars centerline.
Great news! Okay, elephant in the room question: will the optional spurs be available at launch?
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Old 09-06-2017, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
Internal ratio is 2.5:1. An 81 tooth spur comes with the kit. I've run down to a 18 tooth pinion and up to a 31 tooth with that spur gear depending on the motor I was running. So your FDR can be anywhere from 11.25:1 down to a 6.53:1 with the stock spur. And you might be able to run a slightly smaller or larger pinion than what I just listed, I haven't maxed out the mount yet because I didn't need to.
We plan on offering another spur size designed for 13.5 and 17.5 and there's a good chance we'll have a third gear in between those two for fine tuning your FDR or moving your motor closer to or further away from the cars centerline.
Thank you Matt!! I was looking for the internal ratio, not the FDR. so thanks for reading into my question and still giving me what I wanted, even though I brainfarted the actual term I was looking for.
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Old 09-06-2017, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
I would take that over subzero temps in the winter while still having 100 deg summers with high humidity
We may dodge the freezing but recently we have the humidity as well. Oh and last week it was 114 at my house. And it wasnt a dry heat!
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Old 09-06-2017, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
I won't even visit CA because I'm afraid if I do come out west, I won't go home!
The tracks are great. I prefer to be able to breathe though with far less air pollution out this way.
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Old 09-06-2017, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
I run a Yokomo DTM with the DT style transmission now for 2wd buggy 17.5 blinky, and a Hot Bodies D413 for 1/10 4wd buggy 13.5 blinky (its a mod class but I like this power setup).

Our track is very small and torque is king, so gearing is dependent on that. However, in general I start with some general FDR recommendations I found online for motors:

http://durangofansite.com/main.php?v...0&page=gearing

This has been a good starting point to work from, combined with the "longest straight versus temp" gearing method since I run these without an electronic boost/turbo.
Spur pinion???
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Old 09-06-2017, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by STLNLST View Post
Spur pinion???
for 2wd buggy right now its 76T spur, 31 Tooth pinion. (the YZ2 DT tranny motor plate is weird in how far you can slide the motors)

For 4wd buggy HB D413 I think its 72T spur and a 29T pinion.

again short tracks here.
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Old 09-06-2017, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
for 2wd buggy right now its 76T spur, 31 Tooth pinion. (the YZ2 DT tranny motor plate is weird in how far you can slide the motors)

For 4wd buggy HB D413 I think its 72T spur and a 29T pinion.

again short tracks here.
Thanks
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Old 09-06-2017, 10:40 PM
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We'll be releasing the last article and pictures this Friday. Just a quick note about the weight of the buggy since it hasn't been listed anywhere. My test car with a low profile servo, 4900mah battery, Reedy motor, RSX ESC is around 1750g.

Matt's test car with optional parts (titanium, aluminum hardware, CF parts) and basically the same electronics is around 1650g. So it's pretty light .
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Old 09-06-2017, 11:02 PM
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how do you know it's not adaptable?
I never said it was not, I implied it would cost money and why not leave the
stuff out I don't need and give me the things I do for high grip.

Look at kyosho,their 2wd buggy is ready for any track
No it's not, but we can debate the all in one box thing all you want. But the last
thing I am gonna do if I am Tekno is base my marketing strategy around the 2
slowest selling cars in the industry right now. The AE twins are a run away sales
success and they carried that theory over to the 4wd market.

A 2wd maybe needs some changes for carpet but I don't see that for 4wd. A option on the center diff maybe?
A 4wd needs more help than a 2wd. Different caster blocks, stiffer springs, bigger bar, different hexes, and a slipper would be a good start.

I've never ran on carpet
Not calling you out on this but it's something a lot of people who have never
run on high grip like carpet and astro need to consider before making blanket
statements.

I was a very early adopter of Tekno. I have always supported them because I think that there
very intuitive as to what the market is seeking but there willing to make changes quickly if
necessary. I have nothing but love for this company and want them to succeed in this market.
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Last edited by JsK; 09-06-2017 at 11:26 PM.
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Old 09-07-2017, 05:55 AM
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Originally Posted by teknorc View Post
We'll be releasing the last article and pictures this Friday. Just a quick note about the weight of the buggy since it hasn't been listed anywhere. My test car with a low profile servo, 4900mah battery, Reedy motor, RSX ESC is around 1750g.

Matt's test car with optional parts (titanium, aluminum hardware, CF parts) and basically the same electronics is around 1650g. So it's pretty light .
Thanks for the mentions of weight.
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Old 09-07-2017, 06:37 AM
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If we could get a reveal on what the spares will be and the prices for the parts that would be great too. I wouldn't mind having a list ready to go of items I want to have spares of, in particular, springs and whatever gear is going to be recommended for 13.5 motor usage.
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Old 09-07-2017, 06:38 AM
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Originally Posted by teknorc View Post
Matt's test car with optional parts (titanium, aluminum hardware, CF parts) and basically the same electronics is around 1650g. So it's pretty light .
hmmm...curious minds want to know....
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Old 09-07-2017, 06:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
If we could get a reveal on what the spares will be and the prices for the parts that would be great too. I wouldn't mind having a list ready to go of items I want to have spares of, in particular, springs and whatever gear is going to be recommended for 13.5 motor usage.
I would assume the spares we would want to have on hand would be much like any other tekno vehicle. (hinge pins, shock shafts, spur....)

BUT, a list of the option parts on Matt's car would be nice! haha

I hate to say it, but I have a feeling tomorrow's info dump will give us all we want to know.....and as usual, we have to wait and see......well, besides pricing!
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