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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

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Old 01-17-2019, 05:13 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:
  • Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
  • Gear differentials (all 3)
  • Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
  • Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
  • Reverse bellcrank steering system
  • Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • 8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
  • 13mm big bore shocks
  • 3.5mm shock shafts
  • Droop screws

Videos
Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
  • Preference for Associated factory team pinions
  • Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
  • Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
  • Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
  • For comparison:
  • B64 is 2.47:1
  • 22-4 is 2.4:1
  • YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels
  • B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
  • 22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
  • B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
  • 22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!


Build Tips:
  • When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head

  • Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock

  • Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification

  • Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment

  • Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
  • To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
  • pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
    More shock build tips here
  • Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
  • Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.

  • When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
  • When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
  • If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.

  • Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings


  • Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494


  • Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

    This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

    Joey A.

    So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

    -Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

    -Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

    -Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

    -Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

    -Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

    -Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

    Sorry for the shity grammar,
    TJR

    Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

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Old 09-01-2017, 06:24 AM
  #796  
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Originally Posted by Jason B View Post
Beautiful car so far! .......
Totally agree
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Old 09-01-2017, 07:13 AM
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For that custom low profile screw that holds the pistons on, hopefully the spare pack of those isn't something $$$.

great move going with full alloy hingepin braces. Hopefully the SCT410.4 if it ever comes out can finally join the pack with that out of the box.

Looks good, excited to see more.
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Old 09-01-2017, 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by JoeW View Post
Wow just wow. This thing just looks amazing. I can't get over how easy it is to change diffs. Revolutionary design elements that I think many will copy in the years to come.
I am excited that it will be easy to change out the diffs in this. This was one feature I really like on my old Durango Dex410v4. I am currently using a HBD413 and I hate taking out the diffs on it.
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Old 09-01-2017, 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
For that custom low profile screw that holds the pistons on, hopefully the spare pack of those isn't something $$$.

great move going with full alloy hingepin braces....
I hope your point regards the spare part price is not right ..
from what i'm looking I assure you this is a tank 1/10 .. mugen like armored .
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Old 09-01-2017, 07:28 AM
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Simply beauitifull so far! Awesome to see this unique design and big props to Tekno for obviously creating something out of the norm. So far it appears that one won't spend a foertune in hop ups with all the aluminum parts seen so far. I am a sucker for bling but it looks like there won't be a ton of added bling needed. Maybe alum bellcranks and Ackerman bar if available down the road ( I will buy because as mentioned I love aluminum bling). But again it so far seems to have lots included as standard. Can't wait to see part three which I am sure won't disappoint. All whom are wanting one I would place a pre order as after today's 2nd low down I imagine many places pre orders will be filled. Currently Fierce RC, TQ Hoobies and aMAin are a few places I have seen pre order options available in which I bet there remaining allotment gets snatched up.
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Old 09-01-2017, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Batman4ever View Post
from what i'm looking I assure you this is a tank 1/10 .. mugen like armored .
I don't know where you keep getting that mugens are tougher than tekno. I see more mugens break arms and crap around me than tekno's. And tekno's FAR outnumber the mugens.

But, coming from tekno, this is exactly what I expected. I can't wait to break Xray's & Yok's.....
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Old 09-01-2017, 07:30 AM
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Kit price is a real deal at under $400, thus I think spare parts will be very reasonable.
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Old 09-01-2017, 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by ezlight View Post
I don't know where you keep getting that mugens are tougher than tekno. I see more mugens break arms and crap around me than tekno's. And tekno's FAR outnumber the mugens.

But, coming from tekno, this is exactly what I expected. I can't wait to break Xray's & Yok's.....
+1 - Pretty sure most Mugen owners are swapping in XB8 arms for durability
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Old 09-01-2017, 08:46 AM
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As a team driver, I'm clearly biased, but damn, Tekno is killing it right now!
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Old 09-01-2017, 08:53 AM
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This is going to be a longggg September!
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Old 09-01-2017, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by ezlight View Post
I don't know where you keep getting that mugens are tougher than tekno. I see more mugens break arms and crap around me than tekno's. And tekno's FAR outnumber the mugens.

But, coming from tekno, this is exactly what I expected. I can't wait to break Xray's & Yok's.....
The terrain here is either sand dunes that is nothing break on it OR true badlands that even real cars cant stand 20 miles without damaging something .. believe me the badlands here has rocky sharp edges like nothing in you'll see .. the mugen stand stood " longer " than other before breaks something .

Anyway, tekno did a tremendous work here so far .. i believe we are all here and eslehere are delighted.
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Old 09-01-2017, 09:56 AM
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So far it looks amazing. I can't believe they got the balance to work with everything in front of the center diff. I guess that makes more sense why there is no option for mounting the shocks on the front of the rear tower. They need those out back...

The only bad thing I see so far is the spur gear can't be replaced without opening the diff (like HB). I guess that nets fewer screws, but I would rather it be the ring style like the Xb4 or B64.
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Old 09-01-2017, 10:42 AM
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Really nice mini 1/8th so far!
The center diff/motor mount is killing me, why is it so high?
Would it be possible to run the shocks upside down with optional caps?
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Old 09-01-2017, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by E-Mann View Post
...The only bad thing I see so far is the spur gear can't be replaced without opening the diff (like HB). I guess that nets fewer screws, but I would rather it be the ring style like the Xb4 or B64.
yeah that is probably the one thing now you mention it that if it could have been done, would have been a nice touch. I know I like that on my HB D413 and its exotek conversion.

Originally Posted by dtr View Post
Really nice mini 1/8th so far!
The center diff/motor mount is killing me, why is it so high?
Would it be possible to run the shocks upside down with optional caps?
Maybe clearance for the spur relative to the gearing trying to be acheived? Durango was the same way.
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Old 09-01-2017, 11:09 AM
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You can see the servo in this shot:
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