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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

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Old 01-17-2019, 05:13 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:
  • Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
  • Gear differentials (all 3)
  • Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
  • Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
  • Reverse bellcrank steering system
  • Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • 8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
  • 13mm big bore shocks
  • 3.5mm shock shafts
  • Droop screws

Videos
Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
  • Preference for Associated factory team pinions
  • Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
  • Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
  • Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
  • For comparison:
  • B64 is 2.47:1
  • 22-4 is 2.4:1
  • YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels
  • B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
  • 22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
  • B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
  • 22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!


Build Tips:
  • When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head

  • Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock

  • Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification

  • Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment

  • Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
  • To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
  • pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
    More shock build tips here
  • Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
  • Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.

  • When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
  • When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
  • If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.

  • Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings


  • Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494


  • Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

    This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

    Joey A.

    So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

    -Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

    -Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

    -Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

    -Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

    -Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

    -Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

    Sorry for the shity grammar,
    TJR

    Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

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Old 03-04-2019, 09:56 AM
  #4966  
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Originally Posted by rustyus View Post
Any chance on getting a measurement on the width?
If you're worried about them fitting in some wheels, I haven't found a wheel that they didn't work with. I've tried DE racing, TLR and Proline
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Old 03-04-2019, 08:54 PM
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Old 03-05-2019, 07:49 AM
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I lost my stock wheel nuts pretty early on as well. I ended up just picking up what they had at the time and they were the TLR 4mm serrated nuts. They have worked out ever since. Those Yokomo ones look to be a touch bigger but that's just what it appears to be in the picture, I have no measurements to verify.
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Old 03-05-2019, 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Jay13 View Post
Considering this buggy but wondering if the issues listed in this thread have been fixed? Do I need to order the 3x20mm screws for the bulkhead? Was there a running change to the hinge pins, or shock caps? Do the frames have issues with breaking? Do most of the current set ups require the rear shocks to be moved to the front of the towers? Any issues i'm missing?
  • Bulkhead was revised, but still not perfect, main reason I am going to switch to the PR Racing 401-R is because they include aluminum bulkheads, in a perfect world, TEKNO would make an aluminum bulkhead too
  • Yes, I would install the longer 3x20mm screws in the bulkhead regardless
  • Yes, Hinge pins were updated, but still bend
  • I believe the shock caps were corrected, I haven't had any issues with the plastic caps on my ET410 at least
  • Frames - Chassis? Most chassis that I see break are those running on dirt/clay with excessive wear from chassis bottoming out, I would consider making a custom skid plate if I raced in those conditions, but my chassis has no signs of wear on a turf track, I have seen a couple guys snap their chassis at the turf track but that was after hitting a wall at WOT.
  • Shock forward mod was well worth it for me!
I would also consider the following upgrades:
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Old 03-05-2019, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by rustyus View Post
Any chance on getting a measurement on the width?
While these have a great hold on the plastic wheels I will warn against them after I had one strip out at a big race(was in 2nd place ). It's a shame because I really liked the way they work in comparison to the plain steel nuts. Never had a wheel loosen up in a race after switching to these. You might not have a wheel fall off but don't be suprised if they strip out, the threaded portion is pretty thin.
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Old 03-05-2019, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by billdelong View Post
  • Bulkhead was revised, but still not perfect, main reason I am going to switch to the PR Racing 401-R is because they include aluminum bulkheads, in a perfect world, TEKNO would make an aluminum bulkhead too
  • Yes, I would install the longer 3x20mm screws in the bulkhead regardless
  • Yes, Hinge pins were updated, but still bend
  • I believe the shock caps were corrected, I haven't had any issues with the plastic caps on my ET410 at least
  • Frames - Chassis? Most chassis that I see break are those running on dirt/clay with excessive wear from chassis bottoming out, I would consider making a custom skid plate if I raced in those conditions, but my chassis has no signs of wear on a turf track, I have seen a couple guys snap their chassis at the turf track but that was after hitting a wall at WOT.
  • Shock forward mod was well worth it for me!
I would also consider the following upgrades:
The rear arms have been updated for awhile now with more material to prevent flexing and allowing the hubs to pop out, captured rear outer pins should no longer be needed.
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Old 03-05-2019, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by billdelong View Post
  • Bulkhead was revised, but still not perfect, main reason I am going to switch to the PR Racing 401-R is because they include aluminum bulkheads, in a perfect world, TEKNO would make an aluminum bulkhead too
  • Yes, I would install the longer 3x20mm screws in the bulkhead regardless
  • Yes, Hinge pins were updated, but still bend
  • I believe the shock caps were corrected, I haven't had any issues with the plastic caps on my ET410 at least
  • Frames - Chassis? Most chassis that I see break are those running on dirt/clay with excessive wear from chassis bottoming out, I would consider making a custom skid plate if I raced in those conditions, but my chassis has no signs of wear on a turf track, I have seen a couple guys snap their chassis at the turf track but that was after hitting a wall at WOT.
  • Shock forward mod was well worth it for me!
I would also consider the following upgrades:
On the cheap the Sworks hingepins are very durable. Most of the guys who have put them in after doing the common hockey stick bend on the stock units seem to not have had the issue again after using them. They are also about half the cost too.
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Old 03-05-2019, 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
On the cheap the Sworks hingepins are very durable. Most of the guys who have put them in after doing the common hockey stick bend on the stock units seem to not have had the issue again after using them. They are also about half the cost too.
Got a part #?
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Old 03-05-2019, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by billdelong View Post
  • Bulkhead was revised, but still not perfect, main reason I am going to switch to the PR Racing 401-R is because they include aluminum bulkheads, in a perfect world, TEKNO would make an aluminum bulkhead too
  • Yes, I would install the longer 3x20mm screws in the bulkhead regardless
  • Yes, Hinge pins were updated, but still bend
  • I believe the shock caps were corrected, I haven't had any issues with the plastic caps on my ET410 at least
  • Frames - Chassis? Most chassis that I see break are those running on dirt/clay with excessive wear from chassis bottoming out, I would consider making a custom skid plate if I raced in those conditions, but my chassis has no signs of wear on a turf track, I have seen a couple guys snap their chassis at the turf track but that was after hitting a wall at WOT.
  • Shock forward mod was well worth it for me!
I would also consider the following upgrades:
Thanks for taking the time to put together this list of links. I plan on running on med and high bite clay tracks. I did order the buggy, shock cartridges, and servo arm. I will have to put in another couple orders and get some items off this list,
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Old 03-10-2019, 05:37 PM
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Default Compatible wheels

I am planning to get the kit eb410. Coming from d413 wheel, will it fit ?

Last edited by stinger84; 03-10-2019 at 05:50 PM.
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Old 03-11-2019, 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
On the cheap the Sworks hingepins are very durable. Most of the guys who have put them in after doing the common hockey stick bend on the stock units seem to not have had the issue again after using them. They are also about half the cost too.
Originally Posted by Di_spencer View Post
Got a part #?
SWorkz S104 Lower Arm Inner Hinge Pin SWX-330292
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Old 03-12-2019, 09:00 PM
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new steel front and rear skid plate are out, no more worry
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Old 03-12-2019, 09:50 PM
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Anyone else have shock shaft issues? My fronts are different lengths and the short one doesn't have the slight taper at the bottom which just ripped the most of the plastic out of the bottom eye. Tekno customer service dealing with me about it right now. Wondering if anyone else has seen this or if i'm just the lucky one.
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Old 03-12-2019, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Jay13 View Post
Anyone else have shock shaft issues? My fronts are different lengths and the short one doesn't have the slight taper at the bottom which just ripped the most of the plastic out of the bottom eye. Tekno customer service dealing with me about it right now. Wondering if anyone else has seen this or if i'm just the lucky one.


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Old 03-12-2019, 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Jay13 View Post

Looks like 1 front and 1 rear
overall length is 41F 46R

it might be time to go buy a lottery ticket
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