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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

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Old 05-13-2019, 06:33 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:
  • Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
  • Gear differentials (all 3)
  • Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
  • Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
  • Reverse bellcrank steering system
  • Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • 8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
  • 13mm big bore shocks
  • 3.5mm shock shafts
  • Droop screws

Videos
Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
  • Preference for Associated factory team pinions
  • Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
  • Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
  • Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
  • For comparison:
  • B64 is 2.47:1
  • 22-4 is 2.4:1
  • YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels
  • B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
  • 22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
  • B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
  • 22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!


Build Tips:
  • When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head

  • Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock

  • Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification

  • Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment

  • Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
  • To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
  • pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
    More shock build tips here
  • Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
  • Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.

  • When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
  • When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
  • If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.

  • Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings


  • Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494


  • Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

    This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

    Joey A.

    So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

    -Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

    -Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

    -Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

    -Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

    -Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

    -Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

    Sorry for the shity grammar,
    TJR

    Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

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Old 01-28-2019, 05:43 AM
  #4936  
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Originally Posted by GS76 View Post
Hi all,

Do all the new kits come with all the new revised and updated components including the new chassis? As I held off buying this kit as there were durability issues.

I run on outdoor carpet tracks, what upgrades should I get? Should I run the shocks in front of the rear arms?

Any recommendations would be appreciated.

Thank you.
Hopefully Matt will respond with an update as to if/when they decide to include the ET410 chassis update and revised A-block... they have already included the second update of the chassis in the EB410 with tighter milling around the B-block, so technically that update is there, but only the ET410 has the most recent update as far as I know. There have been many running updates to improve durability but here are the upgrades I am running on a covered medium size turf track with average lap times in the 22 sec range:

* Lunsford turnbuckles
* Lunsford shock standoffs
* Trinity aluminum steering rack
* Trinity aluminum rear hub
* Exotek rear outer locking hinge pin
* VRP +3mm rear shock tower --- allows 12-14mm ride height
* Arndtcraft center brace + cooling fan shroud
* Tornado aluminum case cooling fan
* AVID Ceramic Revolution bearings for 13.5T stock
* lightened body/wing
* Rear arms flipped

Flipping the rear arms will shorten the wheelbase and generate tons of steering speed, this was the single most beneficial mod for our high grip surface, my only regret was not doing this mod sooner!

I don't crash very often, but every now and then I'll get tangled with lap traffic and not uncommon to see my car thrown into a violent cartwheel or take a nasty nosedive into a board from a botched landing... very rare to see a break but have broken the front bulkhead, front shock tower, bent inner hing pins, damaged pill inserts and cracked center chassis brace. I don't run rear chassis braces and have thrown a rear center shaft once after a botched landing. I continue to run the stock ball cups as they do relatively well for me, very seldom do they ever pop off, but I have snapped the plastic ends off a cup maybe 2-3 times over the past 13+ months I have raced this chassis. Just be sure the rear camber links are parallel with the rear drive shafts because it's possible to mount the ball stud too close to the wheel and they can rub on the ball cups with too much droop which can cause premature failure. Also be sure to break in the threads of the ball cups with a 3mm screw and a drop of oil to prevent the ball cups from popping off when tuning.

At the club in my area, not uncommon to see more TEKNO's on the podium than any other brand, with the 3 most common brands raced in our area being TEKNO, XRay and Associated.

I plan to get a PR racing SB401-R soon, Adam Drake is making his look very enticing and I can't wait to compare lap times against my EB410
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Old 01-28-2019, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by billdelong View Post
Hopefully Matt will respond with an update as to if/when they decide to include the ET410 chassis update and revised A-block... they have already included the second update of the chassis in the EB410 with tighter milling around the B-block, so technically that update is there, but only the ET410 has the most recent update as far as I know. There have been many running updates to improve durability but here are the upgrades I am running on a covered medium size turf track with average lap times in the 22 sec range:

* Lunsford turnbuckles
* Lunsford shock standoffs
* Trinity aluminum steering rack
* Trinity aluminum rear hub
* Exotek rear outer locking hinge pin
* VRP +3mm rear shock tower --- allows 12-14mm ride height
* Arndtcraft center brace + cooling fan shroud
* Tornado aluminum case cooling fan
* AVID Ceramic Revolution bearings for 13.5T stock
* lightened body/wing
* Rear arms flipped

Flipping the rear arms will shorten the wheelbase and generate tons of steering speed, this was the single most beneficial mod for our high grip surface, my only regret was not doing this mod sooner!

I don't crash very often, but every now and then I'll get tangled with lap traffic and not uncommon to see my car thrown into a violent cartwheel or take a nasty nosedive into a board from a botched landing... very rare to see a break but have broken the front bulkhead, front shock tower, bent inner hing pins, damaged pill inserts and cracked center chassis brace. I don't run rear chassis braces and have thrown a rear center shaft once after a botched landing. I continue to run the stock ball cups as they do relatively well for me, very seldom do they ever pop off, but I have snapped the plastic ends off a cup maybe 2-3 times over the past 13+ months I have raced this chassis. Just be sure the rear camber links are parallel with the rear drive shafts because it's possible to mount the ball stud too close to the wheel and they can rub on the ball cups with too much droop which can cause premature failure. Also be sure to break in the threads of the ball cups with a 3mm screw and a drop of oil to prevent the ball cups from popping off when tuning.

At the club in my area, not uncommon to see more TEKNO's on the podium than any other brand, with the 3 most common brands raced in our area being TEKNO, XRay and Associated.

I plan to get a PR racing SB401-R soon, Adam Drake is making his look very enticing and I can't wait to compare lap times against my EB410
When does Drake run electric?
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Old 01-28-2019, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
When does Drake run electric?
PR Racing recently picked up Drake and they have a new release with a bunch of "Drake Edition" upgrades.

Some key features that PR is doing (included in the kit) that I would like to see TEKNO offer are vented center slipper, lightened drive line for stock racing and more aluminum/carbon bits without getting nickle and dimed on upgrades:




There is speculation that PR might pick up Ryan Lutz too, that would be really interesting to see how that plays out if it truly happens, ha!
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Old 01-28-2019, 10:35 AM
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ok, I saw that. But he has yet to attend a big race and run it. right?
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Old 01-28-2019, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
ok, I saw that. But he has yet to attend a big race and run it. right?
from an interview the middle of last year:

Originally Posted by Adam Drake
I've run the 2wd and 4wd a fair amount...I've raced the car locally, but not sure about larger races. I'm not sure when the first major race will be, but I want to do something soon. This year has been crazier then I expected and sorry that I haven't done more racing. With Mugen we have released a new nitro buggy, electric buggy, and will soon release a new nitro truck and electric truck that have kept me super busy.... it would be nice to attend the WC next year in France for PR Racing.

Now bringing the topic back to discussion on the EB410, huge congrats to Jared Tebo for the big win at the RROC this past weekend... wow!


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Old 01-28-2019, 12:34 PM
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Well done Jared Tebo for sure. That was some crazy racing - part skill, part survival!

Would anyone know, the camber locations on the Raceform V2 rear tower vs the Tekno 6583C, I'd like to mount my shocks on the front side of the rear arm and there are a lot of choices (Bezerk RC being the other one). Anyhow, does the Raceform maintain the stock hole locations? When comparing it in photos with the Tekno factory tower, the hole spacing looks a lot further apart/different. I like the fact the holes in the Raceform don't "overlap" as I've seen a few photos of some crashes and they have ripped through their hole locations. The Raceform looks super cool but I don't want to get too far away from the stock set ups. Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-28-2019, 02:26 PM
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What do you guys feel right now is a good base setup for indoor carpet? Looking to help a buddy out setting up his vehicle but I run a different brand now.

We run on grey ozite with a tire rule limitation (no carpet pins) so slicks with sxt 3.0 compound are common.
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Old 01-28-2019, 04:12 PM
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I have ran my turf setup at an indoor carpet track in Albuquerque without having to change a single thing, though I ran the same pin style tires Prisms... probably not exactly what you want but might help get you in the right direction:

Bill DeLong EB410 High Traction Turf Setup Jan-2019
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Old 01-29-2019, 09:35 AM
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sounds good. Yeah the traction can be pretty good when the tires are sauced well.
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Old 01-29-2019, 10:10 AM
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no sauce is allowed on the turf track in our area, however I have found that tire warmers make a big difference in the winter time, my lap times are right on par with a hot summer day, ha!


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Old 01-29-2019, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by billdelong View Post
no sauce is allowed on the turf track in our area, however I have found that tire warmers make a big difference in the winter time, my lap times are right on par with a hot summer day, ha!

I wish I lived in Austin sometimes. When I lived their before, all the tracks were closing. Now you have a nice facility in Huto
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Old 02-05-2019, 02:52 PM
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Wondering if anyone is using the hobbywing xr10 pro stock esc in their eb410, 13.5. I use it in my 2wd 17.5 buggy and love it, the performance, size , light weight allows me to put weight where I need it. That being said is it enough for 13.5 in a 4wd buggy. I'd like one for the fact of it's size and light weight just not sure how it performs.
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Old 02-09-2019, 03:08 PM
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Anybody know if there is a 14mm hex that will allow me to use my '15 Xray XB4 wheels/tires on the EB410?
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Old 02-09-2019, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by kevinpratt823 View Post
Anybody know if there is a 14mm hex that will allow me to use my '15 Xray XB4 wheels/tires on the EB410?
been running XB4 wheels on mine for a while now, I actually run the SCT410 hexes on the front just to increase the front track width a pinch to help me settle the car on turf
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Old 02-09-2019, 07:59 PM
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Just finished building my EB410. Upgraded from a 22-4 1.0. So far enjoyed the build as it went very smoothly.

Setup: Tekin 5.5, SMC 170 ESC, Sanwa Receiver, Savox 1258TG, SMC Shorty




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