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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

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Old 05-13-2019, 06:33 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:
  • Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
  • Gear differentials (all 3)
  • Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
  • Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
  • Reverse bellcrank steering system
  • Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • 8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
  • 13mm big bore shocks
  • 3.5mm shock shafts
  • Droop screws

Videos
Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
  • Preference for Associated factory team pinions
  • Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
  • Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
  • Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
  • For comparison:
  • B64 is 2.47:1
  • 22-4 is 2.4:1
  • YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels
  • B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
  • 22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
  • B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
  • 22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!


Build Tips:
  • When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head

  • Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock

  • Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification

  • Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment

  • Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
  • To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
  • pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
    More shock build tips here
  • Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
  • Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.

  • When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
  • When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
  • If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.

  • Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings


  • Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494


  • Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

    This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

    Joey A.

    So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

    -Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

    -Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

    -Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

    -Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

    -Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

    -Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

    Sorry for the shity grammar,
    TJR

    Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

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Old 11-17-2018, 11:29 AM
  #4831  
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Happy to say I own another tekno buggy. Had a 48.3 about 2 years ago and sold it. just bought a used eb410 now and can’t wait to run it!
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Old 11-17-2018, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Fast410 View Post
i been reading and skipping around this thread .so is the shocks mounted on front of rear arms more rear side bite? and does it handle better ? i run on indoor clay track smooth and bumpy med bite in winter.
it is for quicker rotation in corners.
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Old 11-18-2018, 04:57 PM
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Question for you guys.....When you run the rear shocks forward on the correct forward shock tower, are the bones still straight in line with the hubs coming out of the diff outdrives? I have a MIP pucks kit I'm trying to install and when i have them in (the rear bones) they are biased forward and the pucks are at the outermost portion of the diff outdrives. I know i've screwed something up here......
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Old 11-18-2018, 07:48 PM
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The bones do not come straight out from the outdrives to the hubs on mine, the hubs are more forward than the outdrives. I did shave one mm off the back of the rear arms when I flipped them.
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Old 11-19-2018, 06:24 AM
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For those who don't want to read the whole thread, I wish an admin could fix the Wiki

Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
I'll have to find my old post but I've mentioned this before, I believe the change that most people are feeling when they do the shock forward mod is the shorter wheelbase along with the increased dogbone angle that comes with it. We've shaved the front of the arms and the front of our hubs to shorten the wheelbase up to 5mm and saw all the same benefits people speak of when they do the shock mod.
Simply put, if you want a more aggressive car, then do the shock mod, if you prefer stability, then keep the shocks on the rear... on turf I shaved about 0.5 sec/lap with the shock mod

The current 13.5T National Champ ran the shock mod on clay to win the title:
https://blog.teknorc.com/2018/08/24/...oar-nationals/

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Old 11-19-2018, 06:56 AM
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Does anyone know if the JConcepts F2 body is low enough to not hit the ground if the car is flipped over?
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Old 11-19-2018, 12:31 PM
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Oh, that’s why my stock body has a hole in the top.
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Old 11-19-2018, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by billdelong View Post
For those who don't want to read the whole thread, I wish an admin could fix the Wiki



Simply put, if you want a more aggressive car, then do the shock mod, if you prefer stability, then keep the shocks on the rear... on turf I shaved about 0.5 sec/lap with the shock mod

The current 13.5T National Champ ran the shock mod on clay to win the title:
https://blog.teknorc.com/2018/08/24/...oar-nationals/

Nice, they posted his setup sheets. Nice to compare them, for ideas.

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Old 11-19-2018, 06:33 PM
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I found that i had to grind off the droop screw insert area of the arm as it was hitting the outdrives and the pucks of the MIP puck system. Has anyone else had this problem? I'm sure it was mentioned on this thread before, but it doesn't show up in searches.......
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Old 11-19-2018, 06:36 PM
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To be a little more clear.....the outdrives were hitting the plastic of the droop screw area when the suspension was in all the way compressed. It starts at about 1/2 travel and gets worse from there. It would have caused some damage if i hadn't caught it, or at least been really noisy.....
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Old 11-19-2018, 06:36 PM
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I did remove the droop screws.....
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Old 11-19-2018, 06:45 PM
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It's most likely ok with the stock outdrives, but the MIP pucks are wider, thus hits the plastic. I bought a used EB410 and found a good deal on the full puck system, so i haven't run it yet with either the stock or MIP outdrives...
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Old 11-19-2018, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by sea1swk View Post
Nice, they posted his setup sheets. Nice to compare them, for ideas.
Tyler gave a very detailed build of his car here, he also posted his email toward the end of the article to ask any specific questions:
https://blog.teknorc.com/2018/07/19/...0-stock-build/
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Old 11-20-2018, 06:52 AM
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Originally Posted by cyclebrkr View Post
I found that i had to grind off the droop screw insert area of the arm as it was hitting the outdrives and the pucks of the MIP puck system. Has anyone else had this problem? I'm sure it was mentioned on this thread before, but it doesn't show up in searches.......
MIP states this is necessary on the instructions when installing them.


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Old 11-20-2018, 07:30 AM
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Yeah....I bought the system here in the classifieds, so no instructions. Tried to find them online, but couldn't (didn't spend too much time on it though...).
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