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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

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Old 05-13-2019, 06:33 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:
  • Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
  • Gear differentials (all 3)
  • Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
  • Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
  • Reverse bellcrank steering system
  • Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • 8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
  • 13mm big bore shocks
  • 3.5mm shock shafts
  • Droop screws

Videos
Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
  • Preference for Associated factory team pinions
  • Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
  • Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
  • Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
  • For comparison:
  • B64 is 2.47:1
  • 22-4 is 2.4:1
  • YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels
  • B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
  • 22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
  • B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
  • 22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!


Build Tips:
  • When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head

  • Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock

  • Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification

  • Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment

  • Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
  • To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
  • pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
    More shock build tips here
  • Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
  • Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.

  • When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
  • When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
  • If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.

  • Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings


  • Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494


  • Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

    This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

    Joey A.

    So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

    -Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

    -Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

    -Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

    -Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

    -Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

    -Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

    Sorry for the shity grammar,
    TJR

    Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

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Old 11-04-2018, 09:51 PM
  #4816  
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Originally Posted by SCRAFAN View Post
Can anyone tell me if you guys are running the 2 rear braces/stiffiners? running medium to high bite clay.
Most of the guys at my track run either the short or the long, but not both, and we're a medium grip clay track with lots of jumps.
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Old 11-05-2018, 05:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Bruce_R View Post
That's with your 13.5 Tekin? I've heard mod is best with metal gears, but hadn't heard 13.5 had any issues with composite.
Yes, we run 13.5 blinky mode....
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Old 11-05-2018, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by lowspark View Post
Tried composite diff gears for the last few weeks...

The rear diff let go yesterday (stripped the <sun gear?> on one side).... Had a heads up from a couple of fellow racers that they had problems with theirs and had gone back to metal gears... did I listen??

Needless to say I removed the composites in all 3 diffs and put the steel gears back in....
+1

Most folks have junked those composite gears at the club in my area too, we run on turf which generates way too much grip for the plastic to hold up, plus the current generation of 13.5T motors are tuning lap times nearly as close as mod which suggests that may be another contributing factor to the plastic not holding up too.
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Old 11-14-2018, 11:33 AM
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Is anyone having issues with their rear wheels hitting the wing at take-off and landing? I'm using pink rear springs, which are pretty soft. I think that's probably a contributing factor.
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Old 11-14-2018, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Bruce_R View Post

How I took the photo, FYI.
What in the world is this?
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Old 11-14-2018, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Bruce_R View Post
Is anyone having issues with their rear wheels hitting the wing at take-off and landing? I'm using pink rear springs, which are pretty soft. I think that's probably a contributing factor.
Yup, I've just grown used to it, I think this is fairly common for most brands on carpet/turf who are running really low ride height settings. I have seen some locals put spacers on the wing mount to raise the wing a little higher, doesn't bother me to hear a little wing rub.
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Old 11-14-2018, 01:16 PM
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If you look at the box right above the buggy, it tells you. It's a digital microscope. You can transmit the image to almost anything with a screen. He just taking a close up shot with it.
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Old 11-15-2018, 06:24 AM
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Originally Posted by billdelong View Post
Yup, I've just grown used to it, I think this is fairly common for most brands on carpet/turf who are running really low ride height settings. I have seen some locals put spacers on the wing mount to raise the wing a little higher, doesn't bother me to hear a little wing rub.
Which rear springs do you run, Bill?
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Old 11-15-2018, 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Bruce_R View Post
Which rear springs do you run, Bill?
I recently flipped the rear arms and changed a few other things in my setup, basic rule is to go with a softer spring if you flip the rear arms, I'm currently running green on the rear and I get 16mm ride height (with Prisms) with the shock collars backed all the way out on the VRP +3mm shock tower

The sheet says Pyramids which have a smaller OD, but I like the feel of Prisms better, I also tried Cactus (similar OD to Pyramid) but they had too much push and I'm getting a pinch faster lap time with the Prisms right now. Another good tire combo is Wedge on the front with Pin Point on the rear, but they don't tend to wear as evenly as the Prisms making the Prism a pinch more cost effective which is another factor in what tires I like to run.

Anyway, the smaller OD tires are less likely to rub on the wing


Last edited by billdelong; 11-15-2018 at 07:21 AM.
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Old 11-15-2018, 06:57 PM
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I noticed the set-up sheets don't have the rear tower with the shocks forward camber link position (moved from the deleted horizontal bracket to the tower). Is there a set-up sheet that shows a baseline setting for this? I just don't want to be too far off with my initial settings......
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Old 11-16-2018, 06:16 AM
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The idea with the VRP rear tower is to get a higher roll center which I stated in the notes to place on the lowest hole, because this is an aftermarket part, I wouldn't expect to see it listed on the TEKNO setup sheet... hopefully TEKNO sees the need for more turf setups and considers these requirements to support more track surfaces in future releases of the car
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Old 11-16-2018, 07:53 AM
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That's the funny thing....it's a Teko part (RC6583C). They should have a separate set-up sheet for this. I'll use your advice and place the camber link in the lower hole.....Thanks!
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Old 11-16-2018, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by cyclebrkr View Post
That's the funny thing....it's a Teko part (RC6583C). They should have a separate set-up sheet for this. I'll use your advice and place the camber link in the lower hole.....Thanks!
Well, Tekno is active on here... if you have a sheet with it and it works... submit it to them and the idea of a section on their site and i bet they post it... they are realllly in tune with the "racers" and feed back... just saying.
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Old 11-16-2018, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by cyclebrkr View Post
That's the funny thing....it's a Teko part (RC6583C). They should have a separate set-up sheet for this. I'll use your advice and place the camber link in the lower hole.....Thanks!
Thats not a tekno part number. This is the tekno part number I think you meant TKR6583C.
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Old 11-16-2018, 07:04 PM
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i been reading and skipping around this thread .so is the shocks mounted on front of rear arms more rear side bite? and does it handle better ? i run on indoor clay track smooth and bumpy med bite in winter.
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