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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

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Old 05-13-2019, 06:33 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:
  • Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
  • Gear differentials (all 3)
  • Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
  • Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
  • Reverse bellcrank steering system
  • Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • 8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
  • 13mm big bore shocks
  • 3.5mm shock shafts
  • Droop screws

Videos
Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
  • Preference for Associated factory team pinions
  • Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
  • Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
  • Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
  • For comparison:
  • B64 is 2.47:1
  • 22-4 is 2.4:1
  • YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels
  • B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
  • 22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
  • B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
  • 22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!


Build Tips:
  • When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head

  • Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock

  • Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification

  • Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment

  • Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
  • To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
  • pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
    More shock build tips here
  • Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
  • Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.

  • When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
  • When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
  • If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.

  • Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings


  • Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494


  • Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

    This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

    Joey A.

    So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

    -Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

    -Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

    -Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

    -Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

    -Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

    -Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

    Sorry for the shity grammar,
    TJR

    Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

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Old 10-25-2018, 10:42 AM
  #4771  
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Originally Posted by mupchu View Post
You don't need to dremel anything, and it is not all that difficult. Get the carbon shock tower, ebay part, flip the arms and done. You can swap between the shocks forward or behind really easy without any mods. I like shocks forward but you may or may not.
Didn't you have to dremel the arms down?
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Old 10-25-2018, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by jonski View Post
Didn't you have to dremel the arms down?
no...

https://blog.teknorc.com/2018/07/19/ultimate-tekno-eb410-stock-build/

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Old 10-25-2018, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by jonski View Post
Didn't you have to dremel the arms down?
ideally you should shave the arms by a few millimeters but if not you just run a shorter wheelbase. Getting a good setup with the rear shock mod is the most important thing to do.
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Old 10-25-2018, 11:21 AM
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Sounds like some guys are wanting the ‘longer’ (stock) wheelbase length when running the flipped Shock/Arm mod.

In this case you may have to dremel the rear arms a bit after the fact.. I just run mine with the shorter wheelbase. This seems to give my car a little more rotation (which is what I was looking for)
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Old 10-25-2018, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by OSherman View Post
Sounds like some guys are wanting the ‘longer’ (stock) wheelbase length when running the flipped Shock/Arm mod.

In this case you may have to dremel the rear arms a bit after the fact.. I just run mine with the shorter wheelbase. This seems to give my car a little more rotation (which is what I was looking for)
Not trying to be a [email protected]@, but do you think you could have tuned a bit more rotation into your car without changing the shocks around. People were running their shocks on the B6, 22, B64, 22-4 on the front before the EB410 came out. If this was something better, why didn't Tekno just include it into their design. I'm not bashing anyone for running this, just questioning why it wasn't designed into the car. Does anyone think they tried it during testing and it just wasn't any better than their standard stuff.
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Old 10-25-2018, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by jonski View Post
Not trying to be a [email protected]@, but do you think you could have tuned a bit more rotation into your car without changing the shocks around. People were running their shocks on the B6, 22, B64, 22-4 on the front before the EB410 came out. If this was something better, why didn't Tekno just include it into their design. I'm not bashing anyone for running this, just questioning why it wasn't designed into the car. Does anyone think they tried it during testing and it just wasn't any better than their standard stuff.
it is all together possible you can get the same setup without moving shocks.... But like some tried shocks front and liked it with the shorter wheelbase. I would not personally run this if I needed to shave the arms down. I'd point out the national champ was pretty successful running like that without breaking out a dremel.
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Old 10-25-2018, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by billdelong View Post
The article I linked which shows the step by step instruction is linked to an eBay sale that ended, here is the current part you need to buy to flip the arms properly:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...hFkq:rk:1:pf:0
I ordered the part from ebay last night. Today I found that Raceform also makes a similar part, available at FierceRC and Amain. Theirs is made of machined Polycarbonate, not 3D printed. Looks really nice. Same price. I already bought the 3D part, so I'll stick with that, but may have gone the other direction if I'd known.

https://www.raceformrc.com/collectio...=8100212899928

Last edited by Bruce_R; 10-25-2018 at 12:05 PM. Reason: grammar
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Old 10-25-2018, 12:05 PM
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Thanks, but from what I see, that lower loop is definitely going to get in the way with the top portion of the sway bar mount. Even if I could force it enough, the flat body mount would be at such a steep angle.

Did you also use washers on your rear hubs as suggested for the additional droop? Tried looking for a similar 10mm inside diameter washer, but could not find the right type. Thanks again.
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Old 10-25-2018, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe67usmc View Post
Thanks, but from what I see, that lower loop is definitely going to get in the way with the top portion of the sway bar mount. Even if I could force it enough, the flat body mount would be at such a steep angle.

Did you also use washers on your rear hubs as suggested for the additional droop? Tried looking for a similar 10mm inside diameter washer, but could not find the right type. Thanks again.
The ebay item above has the sway bar mount integrated into it. If you are trying to flip arms without that part of becomes problematic. I do not run washers in my hubs, I did locate some on amain.com
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Old 10-25-2018, 01:23 PM
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IMO, the decision to move the shocks to the front tower really has more to do with how you drive. If you drive on power (stay on the throttle as the car is rotating), or if you brake to slide the rear end in corners and then shoot out, the stock setup is fine because the car's weight is in the front (more on power steering.) If you drive off power (get off the gas (without braking) in the corners and allow the car to roll through the corner), the shocks at the back and the long wheelbase cause the car to push.This is what the mod helps with. If everyone drove the same, you could have a perfect design, but they don't, and so you won't. Again IMO, the reason tekno put the shocks on the back of the tower is because they thought it would work the best in all conditions and surfaces for the average driver. It was a compromise. We are now trying to get it to work the best for specific surfaces, conditions, and driving styles.

For me, the mod makes the car rotate better for the way I drive, which is what I was looking for.
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Old 10-25-2018, 02:21 PM
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Default Sensor wire length

My kit arrives tomorrow and I am moving electronics from a b64. The sensor wire I have is too long, even for that car, but I'm sure it's too long by a mile for the eb410. What length do you guys think is about right? IllI be using a hobbywing esc and Trinity monster max motor fwiw. Looks like I need a really short one for this car. Thanks.
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Old 10-25-2018, 02:27 PM
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This is the one I just put in mine...
https://www.amainhobbies.com/reedy-flat-sensor-wire-70mm-asc978/p672154?v=228426
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Old 10-25-2018, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Bruce_R View Post
My kit arrives tomorrow and I am moving electronics from a b64. The sensor wire I have is too long, even for that car, but I'm sure it's too long by a mile for the eb410. What length do you guys think is about right? IllI be using a hobbywing esc and Trinity monster max motor fwiw. Looks like I need a really short one for this car. Thanks.
I have a HobbyWing V3.1 in both my EB410 and ET410, here's a pic of my ET410 where I positioned the switch toward the side, I then dremeled away the plastic guard so that I could have easy access to the switch, unfortunately this puts the sensor port on the right sight which requires me to wrap it around the ESC to get to the motor and 100mm sensor wire length is working well for me:

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Old 10-25-2018, 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by jonski View Post
Not trying to be a [email protected]@, but do you think you could have tuned a bit more rotation into your car without changing the shocks around. People were running their shocks on the B6, 22, B64, 22-4 on the front before the EB410 came out. If this was something better, why didn't Tekno just include it into their design. I'm not bashing anyone for running this, just questioning why it wasn't designed into the car. Does anyone think they tried it during testing and it just wasn't any better than their standard stuff.
I think it’s possible to get more rotation without this mod.. anything is possible...

But, having come from running Sedans for the last 11years I found this car to be very planted and tried all the ‘tricks’ that I’m accustomed to when ‘tuning a 4wd’.. I like a really responsive car in general so I figured I would try it just to se if it gave the ‘rotation’ that everyone claimed. Lo and behold I’m happy that it does in fact.. That being said tho, I’m actually still trying to find a bit more.

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Old 10-25-2018, 10:58 PM
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As far as the RaceForm swaybar mount... I tried it, but it has a tremendous amount of slip around the bar.

I opted to try the eBay 3D printed part after the fact and it’s much better. Will stick with it.
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