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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

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Old 01-17-2019, 05:13 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:
  • Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
  • Gear differentials (all 3)
  • Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
  • Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
  • Reverse bellcrank steering system
  • Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • 8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
  • 13mm big bore shocks
  • 3.5mm shock shafts
  • Droop screws

Videos
Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
  • Preference for Associated factory team pinions
  • Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
  • Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
  • Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
  • For comparison:
  • B64 is 2.47:1
  • 22-4 is 2.4:1
  • YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels
  • B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
  • 22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
  • B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
  • 22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!


Build Tips:
  • When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head

  • Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock

  • Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification

  • Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment

  • Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
  • To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
  • pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
    More shock build tips here
  • Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
  • Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.

  • When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
  • When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
  • If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.

  • Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings


  • Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494


  • Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

    This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

    Joey A.

    So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

    -Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

    -Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

    -Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

    -Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

    -Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesnít rub on the wheel.

    -Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

    Sorry for the shity grammar,
    TJR

    Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

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Old 10-22-2018, 07:57 PM
  #4741  
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Our outdoor season is over and this weekend we have our first big indoor event. The surface is partially carpet but mostly some kind of raw masonite fibreboard, and it's going to have two wall rides and a few banked corners. Any suggestions for setups? I have to replace both bulkheads so I might as well go through everything.

I've also lost my fair share of wheel nuts. Tried a few kinds of nylon lock nuts but none of them were shallow enough to work with the amount of exposed threads on the stubs. I wonder if you could change out the front stubs with the longer rears...Thread lock worked well enough to catch some loose ones before I lost them completely. Now it's just a thing I check between races.
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Old 10-22-2018, 08:27 PM
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Default O-Rings continued...

just to clarify. Iím looking for different o-rings because I have never been a fan of the x-ring type.. I too am using the MIP cartridge spacers...

this setup works, just want to experiment with a set of conventional o-rings

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Old 10-22-2018, 08:31 PM
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Default Serrated WheelNuts

I personally use Tamiya Serrated Wheel Nuts as I have had many years of Sedan racing prior to buying the EB410.. so I have a bit of a surplus.. havenít had any issue loosing a wheel nut with 13.5... There are many other companies that make similar.
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Old 10-22-2018, 08:46 PM
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Default Help with rear shock mod

Just received my EB410 kit and wanted to do the rear shock MOD. When they say flip the Arms, does it mean changing the arms - left to right and right to left? I read the wiki portion for it, but it's not crystal clear. Can anyone post a picture of what it looks like Sorry, I'm a visual guy
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Old 10-22-2018, 09:27 PM
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Yes, thatís exactly what it is..
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Old 10-22-2018, 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by HOTROD716 View Post
I have been running this chassis for 2 months now and it has been a pleasure. Still working on a couple of setups for my driving style.

My issue: I keep losing left front wheel nuts more often than I care for. Once in a while right side ones. I am using TLR front rims and I have tried a couple of different brands of nuts. Any one experience this? Iím not opposed to replacing the output shafts on the front. Just not sure which direction to go.
I have been using the Yokomo, thin serrated wheel nuts and havenít lost one yet.
They have a larger ďcontactĒ area against the wheel than the stock wheel nuts do.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494
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Old 10-23-2018, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Joe67usmc View Post
Just received my EB410 kit and wanted to do the rear shock MOD. When they say flip the Arms, does it mean changing the arms - left to right and right to left? I read the wiki portion for it, but it's not crystal clear. Can anyone post a picture of what it looks like Sorry, I'm a visual guy
I'm pretty sure it means to change the top mounting of the shocks from behind the shock tower to the front of the shock tower. You move the mounts to the other side, and reconnect the shocks.
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Old 10-23-2018, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by HOTROD716 View Post
I have been running this chassis for 2 months now and it has been a pleasure. Still working on a couple of setups for my driving style.

My issue: I keep losing left front wheel nuts more often than I care for. Once in a while right side ones. I am using TLR front rims and I have tried a couple of different brands of nuts. Any one experience this? Iím not opposed to replacing the output shafts on the front. Just not sure which direction to go.
My experience has been that if you're losing wheel nuts on the front it is usually due to the wheel hex stripping / spinning out or a loose nut results in the wheel hex stripping which creates future issues. I switched from TLR offset to the Associated offset wheels (this requires TKR1654X hexes up front) as there seemed to be ever so slightly more material in the wheel hex. I'm running a 5.5T motor and have even had this issue with the associated offset wheels even though I use blue loctite on the axle threads to help prevent wheel nuts from ejecting.
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Old 10-23-2018, 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Harrison477 View Post


I have been using the Yokomo, thin serrated wheel nuts and havenít lost one yet.
They have a larger ďcontactĒ area against the wheel than the stock wheel nuts do.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494
I use the same ones and they've been solid.
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Old 10-23-2018, 10:22 AM
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Here is Tyler's article on how to build a competitive 13.5T Spec setup to include the rear shock mod along with a listing of all parts needed, note that Tyler is the current National Champ for the 13.5T class:
https://blog.teknorc.com/2018/07/19/...0-stock-build/

It is worth noting that Tekno has improved their plastic shock caps, on my recent build of the ET410, the plastic caps went on without any issue and I have 5+ race days without any problems so far, I don't plan to upgrade to the aluminum caps anytime soon
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Old 10-23-2018, 11:17 AM
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personally regardless of how the wheel nuts are serrated, I use threadlock. It gives it a bit extra grab I am finding, and i don't lose wheel nuts. Ones I don't threadlock, I may lose one once in awhile. I prefer NOT to be that guy with the wheel rolling down the track ...
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Old 10-23-2018, 01:37 PM
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I use gel based thread lock and have never lost a nut, however I have learned that it's possible to use too much thread lock and have accidentally rounded a hex insert on the wheel when trying to loosen the nut for maintenance later... I had to use a micro torch to melt the thread lock in order to get the wheel off... I have also learned to hit the torch on the nut for a split second if I feel that the glue doesn't want to break before stripping wheel hexes. Just be sure to shield the plastic wheel with some duct tape so you don't get burn marks on the plastic. I have learned that once I get enough build up of thread lock already on the threads, then I don't need to apply any fresh thread lock as it already works in similar fashion to a nylon lock nut at this point anyway.

https://www.vibra-tite.com/threadloc...-threadlocker/
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Old 10-23-2018, 06:51 PM
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Harrison477:Thanks for the idea for the Yokomo wheel nuts link.I will give them a try.

Thanks to all for the thread lock suggestion. I do in fact have blue gel thread lock. I will try that also. I feel like such a fool watching my wheel go on its own. lol
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Old 10-23-2018, 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by billdelong View Post
Here is Tyler's article on how to build a competitive 13.5T Spec setup to include the rear shock mod along with a listing of all parts needed, note that Tyler is the current National Champ for the 13.5T class:
https://blog.teknorc.com/2018/07/19/...0-stock-build/

It is worth noting that Tekno has improved their plastic shock caps, on my recent build of the ET410, the plastic caps went on without any issue and I have 5+ race days without any problems so far, I don't plan to upgrade to the aluminum caps anytime soon
Mines were still a bit oval, but worked like a charm. Definitely a big improvement over the initial cap batch back in 2017. My second batch EB410 shock caps were the worst composite caps I ever encountered. Time will tell if there is enough tread engagement, but so far I've been quite happy with the ET410 caps. I wish the buggy had those a year ago.
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Old 10-24-2018, 04:56 AM
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2.4 inch tires work fine on the eb410, right? Just need to have the TLR 22 offset up front, right?
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