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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

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Old 05-13-2019, 06:33 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:
  • Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
  • Gear differentials (all 3)
  • Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
  • Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
  • Reverse bellcrank steering system
  • Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • 8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
  • 13mm big bore shocks
  • 3.5mm shock shafts
  • Droop screws

Videos
Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
  • Preference for Associated factory team pinions
  • Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
  • Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
  • Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
  • For comparison:
  • B64 is 2.47:1
  • 22-4 is 2.4:1
  • YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels
  • B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
  • 22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
  • B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
  • 22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!


Build Tips:
  • When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head

  • Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock

  • Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification

  • Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment

  • Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
  • To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
  • pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
    More shock build tips here
  • Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
  • Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.

  • When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
  • When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
  • If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.

  • Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings


  • Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494


  • Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

    This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

    Joey A.

    So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

    -Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

    -Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

    -Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

    -Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

    -Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesnít rub on the wheel.

    -Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

    Sorry for the shity grammar,
    TJR

    Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

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Old 09-30-2018, 09:47 AM
  #4651  
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Rough race day.. The chassis was already developing cracks under the B block from wear. So the question is, if I send the chassis back to Tekno will I get a 50% coupon for the revised chassis or another V1 chassis??




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Old 09-30-2018, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by boudin4evr View Post
I know some guys run xb4 FRONT wheels, is their offset different? thought about trying AVID RC wheels
front and rear
Yes, XB4 is +1mm offset, I recently switched to XB4 wheels in addition to the +1mm offset with the SCT410 hexes on the front and that has really helped make my car a lot more stable in the chicanes.

I haven't compared AVID wheels yet, but having switched from Losi brand to ProLine wheels, I'm thinking that ProLine might be a pinch lighter, I'll need to weigh both brands before the next time I mount fresh tires, I might pick up some AVID wheels while I'm at it just to compare weight as well.
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Old 09-30-2018, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by frdtrkguy View Post
Rough race day.. The chassis was already developing cracks under the B block from wear. So the question is, if I send the chassis back to Tekno will I get a 50% coupon for the revised chassis or another V1 chassis??
They still show the TKR6501 in stock, I'd contact them first to be sure they upgrade you to the revised TKR6501B, it's an iffy situation:

"Parts that are discontinued or no longer in production are not covered by any warranty."
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Old 09-30-2018, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by billdelong View Post
They still show the TKR6501 in stock, I'd contact them first to be sure they upgrade you to the revised TKR6501B, it's an iffy situation:

"Parts that are discontinued or no longer in production are not covered by any warranty."
Thanks. I've got nothing to lose by just sending it in I guess.
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Old 10-02-2018, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by shadaloo View Post
I figure the exotek bell cranks are longer or the aluminum ackerman is shaped different? I don't have the originals to compare... there isn't any chassis flex or anything..
maybe itís just me but I think the servo horn is on upside down.
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Old 10-02-2018, 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by caioz1jp View Post


maybe itís just me but I think the servo horn is on upside down.
for low profile servos the manual says to mount it this way, but thanks for the reply, flipping it might of fixed the problem too.


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Old 10-03-2018, 11:03 PM
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I have an extra et410 kit unopened and seen alot of people considering converting the EB to an ET but what about converting the ET to an EB. I have priced arms, turnbuckles, and driveshafts and it's about 80 bucks. Would it be a valid contender with the bigger shocks and towers or would the geo be all wrong for a buggy?
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Old 10-04-2018, 06:23 AM
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Originally Posted by snowninja View Post
I have an extra et410 kit unopened and seen alot of people considering converting the EB to an ET but what about converting the ET to an EB. I have priced arms, turnbuckles, and driveshafts and it's about 80 bucks. Would it be a valid contender with the bigger shocks and towers or would the geo be all wrong for a buggy?
The shorter arms will definitely jack the geometry, the shocks will stand significantly more vertical... I predict the conversion will make it extremely twitchy and increased COG will probably be more likely to traction roll... though I could be wrong, probably just need to try it to be certain, but I wouldn't be surprised if you were not happy with the end result
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Old 10-05-2018, 09:49 AM
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I have a car with the MIP proformace chassis and have trouble with the battery falling out. The velcro strap kinda sucks. I do not like the idea of taping a battery in and was wondering if anyone knows of any side rails for the car or maybe batter ways of securing the battery...I was thinking maybe using some velcro on chassis and battery kinda like what is used for the bodies so I can still take the battery in and out for charging
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Old 10-05-2018, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by ahe243 View Post
I have a car with the MIP proformace chassis and have trouble with the battery falling out. The velcro strap kinda sucks. I do not like the idea of taping a battery in and was wondering if anyone knows of any side rails for the car or maybe batter ways of securing the battery...I was thinking maybe using some velcro on chassis and battery kinda like what is used for the bodies so I can still take the battery in and out for charging
For cars which have issues keeping the battery in on the sides (used to see this in my old touring car days), some velcro on the battery and the chassis along with the strap can help. Looking at the chassis short of someone making some kind of retaining system looks like not much options.
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Old 10-05-2018, 12:16 PM
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ok thanks I was thinking velcro would be the easiest way to go but was not sure if there was some trick 3d deals out there or not.
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Old 10-05-2018, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by ahe243 View Post
ok thanks I was thinking velcro would be the easiest way to go but was not sure if there was some trick 3d deals out there or not.
on one of my older vehicles they had what looks like a lipo retaining tray. it went around the battery retaining posts. It was on the hot bodies d413.

maybe you can use something like this and glue the retaining system in place?

https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...yABEgJKK_D_BwE

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Old 10-05-2018, 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by ahe243 View Post
I have a car with the MIP proformace chassis and have trouble with the battery falling out. The velcro strap kinda sucks. I do not like the idea of taping a battery in and was wondering if anyone knows of any side rails for the car or maybe batter ways of securing the battery...I was thinking maybe using some velcro on chassis and battery kinda like what is used for the bodies so I can still take the battery in and out for charging
I use a zip-tie, which means I run the same battery all event. Only solution I have came up with.
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Old 10-06-2018, 04:34 PM
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So whats everyones take on getting the 13.5 mip puck system? I see its $145 shipped... Specifically for 13.5 spec racing.
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Old 10-06-2018, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by shadaloo View Post
So whats everyones take on getting the 13.5 mip puck system? I see its $145 shipped... Specifically for 13.5 spec racing.
its not necessary but I personally like it a lot. It's easy to change out the pucks when they wear down and they dont wear out too quick either. The reason I like them is it takes a little stress off the motor which for me has resulted in a cooler motor but also a torque monster.
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