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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

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Old 05-13-2019, 06:33 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:
  • Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
  • Gear differentials (all 3)
  • Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
  • Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
  • Reverse bellcrank steering system
  • Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • 8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
  • 13mm big bore shocks
  • 3.5mm shock shafts
  • Droop screws

Videos
Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
  • Preference for Associated factory team pinions
  • Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
  • Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
  • Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
  • For comparison:
  • B64 is 2.47:1
  • 22-4 is 2.4:1
  • YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels
  • B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
  • 22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
  • B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
  • 22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!


Build Tips:
  • When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head

  • Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock

  • Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification

  • Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment

  • Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
  • To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
  • pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
    More shock build tips here
  • Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
  • Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.

  • When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
  • When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
  • If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.

  • Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings


  • Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494


  • Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

    This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

    Joey A.

    So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

    -Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

    -Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

    -Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

    -Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

    -Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

    -Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

    Sorry for the shity grammar,
    TJR

    Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

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Old 05-18-2018, 05:53 AM
  #4321  
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Originally Posted by Cain
hey everyone. was curious what are the current thoughts on piston selection for tracks that have flat landings? Wondering if anyone has found a more plush setup than the 2 x 2.0 rear piston setup?
Our Carpet track has a lot of flat landings. We've been running 2.1 rear pistons, 50-55wt oil and Pink rear springs and it's pretty plush. The car settles nicely on flat landings.
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Old 05-18-2018, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Marshy2012

I have seen that some setups with fast large tracks with plenty of flat landing generally have the 2.0 rear piston setups with 500-600cst oil. Does that make sense? Meaning, is setup consistent with that type of track?
Originally Posted by Scott R
Our Carpet track has a lot of flat landings. We've been running 2.1 rear pistons, 50-55wt oil and Pink rear springs and it's pretty plush. The car settles nicely on flat landings.

Thanks for the info both of you. Any vids of the vehicles landing these jumps for comparison?

Also, that 50-55W oil that AE or losi?
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Old 05-18-2018, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Cain

Also, that 50-55W oil that AE or losi?
AE Oil
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Old 05-18-2018, 12:59 PM
  #4324  
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thanks.

For comparison purposes of pistons I remember a little chart out there that had some handy comparisons of piston hole sizes via area. Anyone have something like that for tekno eb410 pistons?
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Old 05-18-2018, 05:44 PM
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the area of a circle is;
pi x R squared

Sucks I cant type the proper symbols for the equation on my computer.
That all being said here is what I came up with.
All my answers are in mm squared fyi.

4 x 1.7mm =9.0746mm
4 x 1.8mm =10.1736mm
4 x 2.0mm =12.56mm
4 x 2.1mm =13.8474mm

My bad for some reason I figured them as 4 hole.

2 x 1.7mm =4.54mm
2 x 1.8mm =5.09mm
2 x 2.0mm =6.28mm
2 x 2.1mm =6.92mm
Last edited by Tbuggy; 05-18-2018 at 07:08 PM.
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Old 05-18-2018, 06:55 PM
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I tested out the shocks forward mod tonight and noticed the car turned better and would hold a tighter line in the tighter sections of the track. This was on a hard packed dirt - indoor track with traction being down from where it normally was during our recent winter season. My lap times were more consistent tonight and I was able to run a bunch of laps that were only a couple hundredths off of my best ever lap when tracton had been higher.

I trimmed the rear A arms and added spacers to help lengthen the wheelbase to get closer to stock, but think I ended up 1mm shorter than the stock position. I'm unsure what to credit the improvement in handling to, but believe the shorter wheelbase might net similar results with the shocks out back. I'm going to swap it back around and see if a shorter wheelbase (arms have already been trimmed) with the shocks in the rear position nets similar results...

Anyone else with the shock forward mod go back to shocks in the rear with the trimmed a arms running a shorter wheelbase?
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Old 05-18-2018, 08:06 PM
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Just finished the mod. Hope to try it out Monday.
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Old 05-18-2018, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by rvrslt1
Just finished the mod. Hope to try it out Monday.
I bought the Bezerk CF swaybar mount along with the Raceform sway bar mount, the race form mount wins out as my favorite!
(Don't forget to install the set screws though)
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Old 05-19-2018, 04:27 AM
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Originally Posted by suzukipro
I bought the Bezerk CF swaybar mount along with the Raceform sway bar mount, the race form mount wins out as my favorite!
(Don't forget to install the set screws though)
I put the set screws in and they felt real loose. Like they would just back out and be gone in a lap or 2. Are they a different size then the ones from the stock mount? Thanks
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Old 05-19-2018, 05:54 AM
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Originally Posted by rvrslt1

I put the set screws in and they felt real loose. Like they would just back out and be gone in a lap or 2. Are they a different size then the ones from the stock mount? Thanks
I used the set screws that came with the kit and they seemed to have stayed put after a night of practice. If you don't have the set screws snugged up, you won't get the full effects of your sway bar - similar to running a thinner sway bar.
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Old 05-19-2018, 07:24 AM
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So for you guys doing the forward shock mod, what are you currently seeing as improvements and where to use it, as well as any tips on driving style?
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Old 05-19-2018, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Cain
thanks.

For comparison purposes of pistons I remember a little chart out there that had some handy comparisons of piston hole sizes via area. Anyone have something like that for tekno eb410 pistons?
Was this what you were looking for? I couldn't find a chart but I promise my math is correct and the EB410 pistons surface area was calculated as below.


2 x 1.7mm =4.54mm
2 x 1.8mm =5.09mm
2 x 2.0mm =6.28mm
2 x 2.1mm =6.92mm
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Old 05-19-2018, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Cain
So for you guys doing the forward shock mod, what are you currently seeing as improvements and where to use it, as well as any tips on driving style?
I noticed the car turned and rotated and held a tighter line in the 180° turns and it felt more predictable, although I am unsure if these improvements were due to the shorter wheelbase or the combination of shocks up front, shorter wheelbase & dogbone plunge?

was using the Raceform swaybar holder and their new shock tower with camber link holes.
Last edited by suzukipro; 05-20-2018 at 05:11 PM.
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Old 05-19-2018, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Tbuggy
Was this what you were looking for? I couldn't find a chart but I promise my math is correct and the EB410 pistons surface area was calculated as below.


2 x 1.7mm =4.54mm
2 x 1.8mm =5.09mm
2 x 2.0mm =6.28mm
2 x 2.1mm =6.92mm
Can you post your formula? Looking to do some 8 hole piston calculations , starting with 8 hole x 1.1mm

Originally Posted by suzukipro
I noticed the car turned and rotated and held a tighter line in the 180° turns and it felt more predictable, although I am unsure if these improvements were due to to the shorter wheelbase or the combination of shocks up front, shorter wheelbase & dogbone plunge?

was using the Raceform swaybar holder and their new shock tower with camber link holes.
Cool thanks!
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Old 05-19-2018, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Cain
Can you post your formula? Looking to do some 8 hole piston calculations , starting with 8 hole x 1.1mm



Cool thanks!
Pi times the radius squared and then multiplied by the number of holes.

I will make it easy for you, use this to calculate a single hole and then multiply the answer by the number of holes; https://www.mathsisfun.com/geometry/circle-area.html

8 x 1.1mm= 7.6mm squared
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