Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Tekno RC EB410 Thread >

Tekno RC EB410 Thread

Like Tree2343Likes

Tekno RC EB410 Thread

    Hide Wikipost
Old 05-13-2019, 06:33 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:
  • Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
  • Gear differentials (all 3)
  • Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
  • Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
  • Reverse bellcrank steering system
  • Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • 8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
  • 13mm big bore shocks
  • 3.5mm shock shafts
  • Droop screws

Videos
Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
  • Preference for Associated factory team pinions
  • Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
  • Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
  • Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
  • For comparison:
  • B64 is 2.47:1
  • 22-4 is 2.4:1
  • YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels
  • B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
  • 22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
  • B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
  • 22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!


Build Tips:
  • When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head

  • Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock

  • Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification

  • Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment

  • Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
  • To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
  • pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
    More shock build tips here
  • Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
  • Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.

  • When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
  • When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
  • If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.

  • Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings


  • Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494


  • Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

    This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

    Joey A.

    So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

    -Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

    -Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

    -Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

    -Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

    -Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

    -Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

    Sorry for the shity grammar,
    TJR

    Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

Print Wikipost

Reply

Old 03-18-2018, 09:07 PM
  #4051  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (18)
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Seattle
Posts: 749
Trader Rating: 18 (100%+)
Default

yup, the only ones I have seen are 3d prints and on eBay.
Tbuggy is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2018, 03:36 AM
  #4052  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (31)
 
suzukipro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: WI
Posts: 915
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Default

Has anyone with the Exotek spurgear experienced a failure? Also are you setting your mesh as tight as recommended with the stock spur when using the exotek spur
Cain likes this.
suzukipro is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2018, 07:02 AM
  #4053  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (68)
 
strodedawg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Philly, PA
Posts: 3,074
Trader Rating: 68 (100%+)
Default

looking to try the shock mod for comparison next weekend, is there a link to what people did?

Last edited by strodedawg; 03-19-2018 at 08:13 AM.
strodedawg is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2018, 07:41 AM
  #4054  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (31)
 
suzukipro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: WI
Posts: 915
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Racerx336 View Post
Where was everyone getting the forward shock conversion sway bar mount from? Thanks!
Carbon fiber mounts from this vendor if you don't want a 3d printed one EB410 Option Rear Swaybar Plate, Bezerk RC
suzukipro is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2018, 07:48 AM
  #4055  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (39)
 
EbbTide's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Bay Area, Ca
Posts: 4,147
Trader Rating: 39 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by strodedawg View Post
looking to try the shock mod for caparison next weekend, is there a link to what people did?
This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

Joey A.

So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

Sorry for the shity grammar,
TJR

And this is the ebay printed sway bar mount
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq
EbbTide is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2018, 08:20 AM
  #4056  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (31)
 
suzukipro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: WI
Posts: 915
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by EbbTide View Post
Yeah I can't imagine it's the plastic either. My Tekno spurs haven't stripped either the stock 81t and now the 70t. Though I'm also using plastic pinions and my track doesn't really have loose stuff that can rattle around inside. All it takes is a little pebble between the 81t spur and the chassis.
The reason I believe it is the plastic is I have yet to hear of a failure of any type with the Exotek spur setup made from the stronger Delrin material. I've also never experienced failures like this with any other 10th scale buggy eating spur gears unless there was an identifiable cause (loose mount, motor or pinion).

I've witnessed other EB410's have failures that could not be explained along with my own and many others who have posted similar stories here and on FB. Typically meshing your gears as tight as we do with the EB410 would lead to a spur gear failure from being too tight on most other vehicles.
I also suspect that the revised bulk heads used a different type of plastic or process as they are almost identical to the previous bulks aside from a minor change by the output hole, maybe the same type of issue with the spurs?

I'll purchase the Exotex spur for now, but my hope is that Tekno makes a revised or improved spur made of something more durable that will eliminate these fluke failures and work with traditional mesh adj.
suzukipro is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2018, 08:32 AM
  #4057  
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Maine
Posts: 1,167
Default

Originally Posted by suzukipro View Post
The reason I believe it is the plastic is I have yet to hear of a failure of any type with the Exotek spur setup made from the stronger Delrin material. I've also never experienced failures like this with any other 10th scale buggy eating spur gears unless there was an identifiable cause (loose mount, motor or pinion).

I've witnessed other EB410's have failures that could not be explained along with my own and many others who have posted similar stories here and on FB. Typically meshing your gears as tight as we do with the EB410 would lead to a spur gear failure from being too tight on most other vehicles.
I also suspect that the revised bulk heads used a different type of plastic or process as they are almost identical to the previous bulks aside from a minor change by the output hole, maybe the same type of issue with the spurs?

I'll purchase the Exotex spur for now, but my hope is that Tekno makes a revised or improved spur made of something more durable that will eliminate these fluke failures and work with traditional mesh adj.
I'm still on my original spur gear myself, and I was part of the first shipment.
ezlight is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2018, 08:37 AM
  #4058  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (39)
 
EbbTide's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Bay Area, Ca
Posts: 4,147
Trader Rating: 39 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by suzukipro View Post
The reason I believe it is the plastic is I have yet to hear of a failure of any type with the Exotek spur setup made from the stronger Delrin material. I've also never experienced failures like this with any other 10th scale buggy eating spur gears unless there was an identifiable cause (loose mount, motor or pinion).

I've witnessed other EB410's have failures that could not be explained along with my own and many others who have posted similar stories here and on FB. Typically meshing your gears as tight as we do with the EB410 would lead to a spur gear failure from being too tight on most other vehicles.
I also suspect that the revised bulk heads used a different type of plastic or process as they are almost identical to the previous bulks aside from a minor change by the output hole, maybe the same type of issue with the spurs?

I'll purchase the Exotex spur for now, but my hope is that Tekno makes a revised or improved spur made of something more durable that will eliminate these fluke failures and work with traditional mesh adj.
The only reason I really considered the plastic to not be the issue is that I actually managed to break a tooth off of my composite pinion gear from Kimbrough before actually stripping a Tekno spur. But I admit it seems the Tekno spurs seem to be more prone to failure, whether its the softness of the plastic or the molding process used i can't be sure. But hopefully the Exotek spur changes things for you It's a sweet buggy and it'd be a bummer to keep getting bogged down by the spur.
EbbTide is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2018, 08:57 AM
  #4059  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (16)
 
Reno's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Fort Dodge, IA
Posts: 271
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

As far as moving the rear shocks to the front. I know a couple of guys that did this and the 3D printed sway bar mount seems to me very brittle. He broke one just taking it off. Another guy did as well. Bought off Ebay.

Anyone else experiencing this?

The carbon fiber one mentioned earlier might be the way to go.
Reno is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2018, 09:32 AM
  #4060  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 219
Default

Originally Posted by Reno View Post
As far as moving the rear shocks to the front. I know a couple of guys that did this and the 3D printed sway bar mount seems to me very brittle. He broke one just taking it off. Another guy did as well. Bought off Ebay.

Anyone else experiencing this?

The carbon fiber one mentioned earlier might be the way to go.
I purchased and installed one. Seems strong, no issues. Seemed as strong as the original? Probably everyone should post what they race and on what? Mod on carpet is probably tougher on equipment than 13.5 on Clay/Dirt. I slammed a wall, and bent a swingarm pin. Other than that, no issues. Even on the original spur gear. Must mean I am not running Mod and don't run on Carpet. Or maybe I am a OK driver and don't crash a lot?
sea1swk is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2018, 10:06 AM
  #4061  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (31)
 
suzukipro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: WI
Posts: 915
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by EbbTide View Post
The only reason I really considered the plastic to not be the issue is that I actually managed to break a tooth off of my composite pinion gear from Kimbrough before actually stripping a Tekno spur. But I admit it seems the Tekno spurs seem to be more prone to failure, whether its the softness of the plastic or the molding process used i can't be sure. But hopefully the Exotek spur changes things for you It's a sweet buggy and it'd be a bummer to keep getting bogged down by the spur.
Hopefully the Exotek works better for my situation, aside from that the EB410 is a great vehicle and does its on track business very well

Also I'm running Mod with a 5.5T motor on hard packed Dirt that changes from low to high grip depending on watering conditions.
suzukipro is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2018, 10:14 AM
  #4062  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (39)
 
EbbTide's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Bay Area, Ca
Posts: 4,147
Trader Rating: 39 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by suzukipro View Post
Hopefully the Exotek works better for my situation, aside from that the EB410 is a great vehicle and does its on track business very well

Also I'm running Mod with a 5.5T motor on hard packed Dirt that changes from low to high grip depending on watering conditions.
Maybe the reason I've been so lucky is I'm just running a 13.5 motor lol. Maybe if I actually went to a mod motor I'd start stripping things easier. But I will say the Exotek spurs do have a higher quality feel over the Tekno ones so I imagine they'll at least be a tiny bit better.

One thing I recommend when installing the diff cover whether its the Tekno spur or the Exotek spur plate, you want to get some pliers and clamp down around the differential to make sure the spur or the spur plate is completely seated. This'll help avoid warping the spur when tightening it down. This is what I do with my Tekno spurs since at times the thing doesn't want to seat fully unless you give it some muscle.
EbbTide is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2018, 10:54 AM
  #4063  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (96)
 
lbckevin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 5,620
Trader Rating: 96 (99%+)
Default

I have the original spur on mine. I just make sure to use a new pinion when I build a new kit. That way they learn to mesh with each other. I have the carbon top brace as well.
EbbTide likes this.
lbckevin is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2018, 11:14 AM
  #4064  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (39)
 
EbbTide's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Bay Area, Ca
Posts: 4,147
Trader Rating: 39 (100%+)
Default

If anyone is in the South Bay Area and drive at NorCal Hobbies I'll be there all day Saturday with these mounts. Just ask and I'll give ya one . Three are spoken for. One for me and two for some friends if they want to try it. So two are up for grabs.

EbbTide is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2018, 11:18 AM
  #4065  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (96)
 
lbckevin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 5,620
Trader Rating: 96 (99%+)
Default

Originally Posted by EbbTide View Post
If anyone is in the South Bay Area and drive at NorCal Hobbies I'll be there all day Saturday with these mounts. Just ask and I'll give ya one . Three are spoken for. One for me and two for some friends if they want to try it. So two are up for grabs.

Thats the one I bought from Ebay.
lbckevin is offline  
Reply With Quote

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us Archive Advertising Cookie Policy Privacy Statement Terms of Service