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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

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Old 01-17-2019, 05:13 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:
  • Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
  • Gear differentials (all 3)
  • Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
  • Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
  • Reverse bellcrank steering system
  • Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • 8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
  • 13mm big bore shocks
  • 3.5mm shock shafts
  • Droop screws

Videos
Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
  • Preference for Associated factory team pinions
  • Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
  • Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
  • Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
  • For comparison:
  • B64 is 2.47:1
  • 22-4 is 2.4:1
  • YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels
  • B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
  • 22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
  • B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
  • 22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!


Build Tips:
  • When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head

  • Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock

  • Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification

  • Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment

  • Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
  • To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
  • pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
    More shock build tips here
  • Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
  • Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.

  • When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
  • When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
  • If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.

  • Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings


  • Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494


  • Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

    This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

    Joey A.

    So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

    -Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

    -Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

    -Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

    -Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

    -Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesnít rub on the wheel.

    -Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

    Sorry for the shity grammar,
    TJR

    Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

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Old 02-13-2018, 08:56 AM
  #3661  
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Originally Posted by Scott R View Post
I'm gonna put this here, hopefully someone at Tekno reads it and changes it.

Having to buy a full set of wing mounts every time i have to replace the front bumper is absolutely ridiculous.
I had the same feeling. Having to buy shock and cartridge caps when you only need shock mount bushings $14. I just need to replace the bushings. So i went the way of the Lundsford Titamium shock mounts.
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Old 02-13-2018, 09:04 AM
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Does the front bumper break easily?
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Old 02-13-2018, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by hairymuffin View Post
Does the front bumper break easily?
I did crack one but it was just a hairline and I decided to replace it just incase. But no other breaks since then for the bumper or anything else. Though I don't have very many nose down wrecks that would warrant it.
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Old 02-13-2018, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by EbbTide View Post
I did crack one but it was just a hairline and I decided to replace it just incase. But no other breaks since then for the bumper or anything else. Though I don't have very many nose down wrecks that would warrant it.
You only need to case a triple once or twice. Especially on carpet
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Old 02-13-2018, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Scott R View Post
You only need to case a triple once or twice. Especially on carpet
Yeah carpet is a parts killer for this thing it seems, very unforgiving surface. I'm lucky I run on clay and we rarely see breaks happen at our track when I'm there. There is however one guy who is a friend of mine that finds ways to kill his buggy though it's generally a wicked impact against the wall that breaks it lol. He's got a little too much power in his car haha
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Old 02-13-2018, 10:24 AM
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My clay car is still on 3 of its original inner hingepins Carpet car? well, some guys bleed their shocks before every run, I check all my inner hingepins
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Old 02-13-2018, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Scott R View Post
My clay car is still on 3 of its original inner hingepins Carpet car? well, some guys bleed their shocks before every run, I check all my inner hingepins
I still check my pins as well even on clay lol. When I first bent them I actually had no idea they were bent until I got home and started taking chunks of dirt off I set my fastest lap of the day at the time on two bent front hingepins haha
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Old 02-13-2018, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by slider3 View Post
So i went the way of the Lundsford Titamium shock mounts.
Can u determine if the Lundsford bushings will work with the stock mounts if appropriate spacers are added between the tower and the bushing?
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Old 02-13-2018, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by blueflagger View Post
Can u determine if the Lundsford bushings will work with the stock mounts if appropriate spacers are added between the tower and the bushing?
The bushings should fit over the stock standoffs. It's the spacing that is going to be tricky. M2C is releasing bushings that allow you to just use a 3x25mm screw for the standoffs. Might want to look into that instead.
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Old 02-13-2018, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Scott R View Post
I'm gonna put this here, hopefully someone at Tekno reads it and changes it.

Having to buy a full set of wing mounts every time i have to replace the front bumper is absolutely ridiculous.
Hi guys,

We do this because of the way the molds are laid out. Each spare part bag is an entire mold shot. This reduces costs across the board, but of course in instances like this, it can be a little annoying. It's hard for us to know exactly how the parts will wear or be replaced so we make our best guess and go from there. Same for the shock caps/bushings.

We can inquire about breaking them up but this requires new spare parts #'s, dealers/distributors/customers need to be notified, etc., etc. The parts will end up being more expensive to package and separate. I wish it was easier. We are already managing close to 1000 parts.
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Old 02-13-2018, 11:45 AM
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Well all my parts arrived, I’m sure in the future tearing this buggy down and putting it back together will go quicker. But right now with it being the first time just after building it 4 weeks ago I’m like oh crap I have a lot to do,especially since SDRC Just reworked their track with a totally new layout. The pressure is on me to finish and get back out there now,should have thought this through better lmfao
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Old 02-13-2018, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by teknorc View Post
Hi guys,

We do this because of the way the molds are laid out. Each spare part bag is an entire mold shot. This reduces costs across the board, but of course in instances like this, it can be a little annoying. It's hard for us to know exactly how the parts will wear or be replaced so we make our best guess and go from there. Same for the shock caps/bushings.

We can inquire about breaking them up but this requires new spare parts #'s, dealers/distributors/customers need to be notified, etc., etc. The parts will end up being more expensive to package and separate. I wish it was easier. We are already managing close to 1000 parts.
I understand. You just missed on this one. You could have put the bumper with the suspension pills. Things that wear out a lot. Then folks wouldn't mind having to buy them because they actually get used. Your wing mount is a tank, I haven't hear of anyone breaking one yet, but I have to keep buying them for the bumper
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Old 02-13-2018, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by SanDiegoRacer View Post
Well all my parts arrived, Iím sure in the future tearing this buggy down and putting it back together will go quicker. But right now with it being the first time just after building it 4 weeks ago Iím like oh crap I have a lot to do,especially since SDRC Just reworked their track with a totally new layout. The pressure is on me to finish and get back out there now,should have thought this through better lmfao
Good luck bud The pucks will probably be the only thing that takes a good amount of time. Everything else should be pretty quick.
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Old 02-13-2018, 11:56 AM
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How hard is it to shorten the servo wires,fan wires,and the on and off switch? I would really like to clean those up and shorten them to exactly what I need. I would love to clean that hot mess up, but I’m to worried about screwing it up. Anyone know a guy that knows a guy? Local would be nice? Please
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Old 02-13-2018, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by SanDiegoRacer View Post
How hard is it to shorten the servo wires,fan wires,and the on and off switch? I would really like to clean those up and shorten them to exactly what I need. I would love to clean that hot mess up, but Iím to worried about screwing it up. Anyone know a guy that knows a guy? Local would be nice? Please
Shortening the wires isn't difficult so long as you have a servo lead crimper which is something I don't have a good recommendation for as I have yet to do this myself. My electronics have alternate length leads that I can buy instead of shortening them myself. Though initially I would just bundle the wires and zip tie them in a safe place. Then look at shortening the wires when you have less on your plate If you want a local I'd ask around at the track, you might have better luck finding someone close by that way
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