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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

05-13-2019, 06:33 AM - Wikipost

R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread

Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.

Last edit by: tobamiester

Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:

Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
Gear differentials (all 3)
Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
Reverse bellcrank steering system
Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
13mm big bore shocks
3.5mm shock shafts
Droop screws

Videos

Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:

Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.

Preference for Associated factory team pinions
Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
For comparison:
B64 is 2.47:1
22-4 is 2.4:1
YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels

B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Ryan Lutz Setups
Instruction Manual
EB410 Resources
Ryan Lutz IOCC blog
PT Oil CST conversion Chart
List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:

GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.
Harbor Freight 0.5mm - 3.0mm bit set * 2.1mm not included

Aftermarket Upgrades:

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Build Tips:

When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head
Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock
Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification
Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment
Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
More shock build tips here
Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.
When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.
Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings
Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494
Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

Joey A.

So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

-Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

-Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

-Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

-Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

-Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

-Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

Sorry for the shity grammar,
TJR

Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

Exotek Sway Bar Mount http://www.exotekracing.com/eb410-re...ar-mount-6061/

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02-03-2018, 01:33 AM

#3511

SanDiegoRacer

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Quote:

Originally Posted by dirtyd_nd

I'm assuming you are running at SDRC and from what I've been told most there are running a 24/25 pinion with the 81 if they have the spec r 13.5. Talk to the guys at the counter, or anyone there, they are pretty helpful. I'll be running the same setup when the motor is back in stock.

I do run at SDRC and i talk to everyone I can, I just appreciate some outside opinions as well. I know those guys know what works best there, but I plan on hitting other tracks someday. As soon as I can keep all 4 wheels on the ground and driving in the right direction without wrecking lol. But from what I have been told and seen, most there run a 23-21 on a stock 81. And yeah it sucks whem they are out of stuff that you want, good luck on your build man. It’s pretty awesome to drive

02-03-2018, 11:56 PM

#3512

SanDiegoRacer

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Ok with MYLAPS, which is the one to get ? I have seen different wire types,and colors red or a black. I’m sure it has been answered here, was hoping to not have to speed read 234 pages though.

02-04-2018, 12:43 AM

#3513

ljungberg

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Location: Stockholm

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni

If the rear is coming out on throttle I'd suggest you go back to a center diff. If you're really adamant about running a slipper then I would say try a either a higher rear roll center or a little bit more antisquat. Both of those will affect your off power handling as well so be prepared for that.

Thanks, yes got the suggestion to check the anti squat. Go up one degree at a time.

I also ordered the weight option pack to the exotek weight (2x8 gram) to see If this also makes the rear to hold on better.

Going back to center diff is not an option for carpet.

02-04-2018, 05:57 AM

#3514

b121774

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Quote:

Originally Posted by SanDiegoRacer

Ok with MYLAPS, which is the one to get ? I have seen different wire types,and colors red or a black. I’m sure it has been answered here, was hoping to not have to speed read 234 pages though.

The hybrid or ‘two wire’ will work everywhere where as the 3 wire will not work where tracks have not updated their systems in awhile. I think most have updated where the 3 wire will work and knowing my laps they will eventually phase out the hybrid and go only the 3 wire.

SanDiegoRacer likes this.

02-04-2018, 09:06 AM

#3515

Scott R

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Quote:

Originally Posted by ljungberg

Going back to center diff is not an option for carpet.

Center diff with 200k is money on carpet. Give it a try, you might be surprised.

02-04-2018, 12:37 PM

#3516

Cain

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Had a great showing with the EB410. did some setup changes with the Bush setup, few things kept from my old setup (namely front and rear diff settings) and it worked, great. Managed to TQ and take 4wd buggy mod class running spec power.

I added in exotek weight full and the Exotek fork and rear carriers. The Exotek Diff fork with the schelle slipper had slight play, so watch for that, may 1 or 2 shims will clear that up.

Funny side note, running SCT 4x4 class took that one 2 and about half way in had blown the top of a rear shock clean off the shock mount, so managed to still pull off the win like that lol.

lbckevin, Bob Barry, Krio and 6 others like this.

02-04-2018, 08:35 PM

#3517

SanDiegoRacer

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Bro,you look like the unhappiest EB410 driver ever man. Smile lol,but congrats on 1st

02-05-2018, 01:23 AM

#3518

Auskenny

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Has anyone got a setup sheet for outdoor loose bumpy dirt ?

Looking for some ideas for my track, stock setup at the moment.

02-05-2018, 05:11 AM

#3519

Scott R

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Quote:

Originally Posted by SanDiegoRacer

Bro,you look like the unhappiest EB410 driver ever man. Smile lol,but congrats on 1st

LOL, Looks like he's holding up a number plate before going to jail

02-05-2018, 06:28 AM

#3520

Cain

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lol.

Looking forward to giving it another run, the Pink Front springs on the rear work great.

Bob Barry, Gayosaka and EbbTide like this.

02-05-2018, 06:56 AM

#3521

Scott R

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Cain

lol.

Looking forward to giving it another run, the Pink Front springs on the rear work great.

what surface are you racing on?

02-05-2018, 07:26 AM

#3522

dan-o

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Anyone have the inside line on what the OEM MFG is of the oils and fluids included in the kits are?

boudin4evr likes this.

02-05-2018, 08:31 AM

#3523

BaggedRanger

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The diffs are 5k and 7k and I think the oil is like 35..

02-05-2018, 09:26 AM

#3524

E-Mann

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Auskenny

Has anyone got a setup sheet for outdoor loose bumpy dirt ?

Looking for some ideas for my track, stock setup at the moment.

The kit setup is really pretty good. Attached link is what I found to work very well. Depending on temperature you will want to go as low shock oil without bottoming out. I ran last week in about 50 degree and ran (AE oil) 32.5 front and 25 rear. It soaked up the bumps very well.

Do yourself a favor and get the aluminum shock caps and either the TLR spacers for the bottom shock cartridge or the new set from MIP. HUGE difference in performance and seal that way. No more bleeding each pack to stay consistent and replacing oil every few days of running.

http://site.petitrc.com/setup/tekno/...regon20171015/

HeavyD99 likes this.

02-05-2018, 11:09 AM

#3525

EbbTide

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Quote:

Originally Posted by dan-o

Anyone have the inside line on what the OEM MFG is of the oils and fluids included in the kits are?

It's more than likely comparable to or actually is PTRC oils since that is what most Tekno guys run due to their accuracy. If you're looking for a brand to stock up on, PTRC would be my recommendation.

dan-o, ezlight and SanDiegoRacer like this.