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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

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Old 01-17-2019, 05:13 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:
  • Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
  • Gear differentials (all 3)
  • Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
  • Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
  • Reverse bellcrank steering system
  • Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • 8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
  • 13mm big bore shocks
  • 3.5mm shock shafts
  • Droop screws

Videos
Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
  • Preference for Associated factory team pinions
  • Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
  • Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
  • Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
  • For comparison:
  • B64 is 2.47:1
  • 22-4 is 2.4:1
  • YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels
  • B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
  • 22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
  • B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
  • 22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!


Build Tips:
  • When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head

  • Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock

  • Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification

  • Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment

  • Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
  • To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
  • pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
    More shock build tips here
  • Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
  • Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.

  • When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
  • When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
  • If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.

  • Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings


  • Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494


  • Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

    This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

    Joey A.

    So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

    -Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

    -Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

    -Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

    -Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

    -Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesnít rub on the wheel.

    -Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

    Sorry for the shity grammar,
    TJR

    Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

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Old 01-22-2018, 10:41 AM
  #3301  
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
For you, you need to look at your facebook message and run Brian's setup (Cain's on carpet not clay)

For everyone else run Red front with 600 and 1.7 piston, pink rear with 2.0 and 550.
lol thanks. I got the setup sheet from you that says Bush on it for the driver which I am assuming is his. Will talk to him about the shock setup as since I am running slicks the grip levels may be slightly different. Looking forward to hearing what he says.
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Old 01-22-2018, 01:54 PM
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Hi everyone,

I just thought I'd pop in and say thanks to all of our customers. As many have mentioned on here already, we have a great group of racers who are helping other racers in a friendly and constructive way. This is awesome!

We're always happy to read of the success that many of you are having. And for the people having issues, please know that we are listening and looking at how to improve the experience for everyone. Thanks! Carry on...
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Old 01-22-2018, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
try pink rears and thank me later
I'll be trying them with 2x2.0 pistons and 550 cst and I may try red up front but so far I'm liking orange and 2x1.7 with 650cst. I can just throw the reds on though without changing oil if I go with Ryan Lutz's recent January Jam shock setup.
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Old 01-22-2018, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
lol thanks. I got the setup sheet from you that says Bush on it for the driver which I am assuming is his. Will talk to him about the shock setup as since I am running slicks the grip levels may be slightly different. Looking forward to hearing what he says.
I'd be interested in what he says as well.........slicks on carpet here too.
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Old 01-22-2018, 09:20 PM
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Alright,just got home from running the new buggy at SDRC. Although I wasnít on the throttle fully at times,ok most of the time except that straight away. I felt loose in the rear end when powering through the corners,it wanted to slide out almost like it was hitting a slick spot. Now since Iím new,my buggy is new and my tires were new Iím not going to stress it yet. I had a blast even when I got tangled up and snapped a rear hub clean off. Man the way it handled over all and soared over those jumps. I can honestly say I expected to donkey flip at least once but didnít. Well time to put these Exotek rear hubs on and get back out there. Tekno,can you please get some aluminum shock caps shipped over to SDRC please,they seem to be out and Iím sure Iím not the only racer out there that would like to buy some lol.
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Old 01-23-2018, 09:34 AM
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An update on the spur gear issue. A friend of mine has gone thru 4 spurs in the last 2 weeks, even using the exotek diff support. They were told to use an associated pinion at the reedy race last week and ran the whole race with no failures. Something about the pitch on other pinions that doesn't agree with the tekno spur. Don't shoot the messenger here, I'm just passing the info along. Lol.
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Old 01-23-2018, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by rcgod View Post
An update on the spur gear issue. A friend of mine has gone thru 4 spurs in the last 2 weeks, even using the exotek diff support. They were told to use an associated pinion at the reedy race last week and ran the whole race with no failures. Something about the pitch on other pinions that doesn't agree with the tekno spur. Don't shoot the messenger here, I'm just passing the info along. Lol.
We've been telling everyone on FB, and here to use the AE FT pinions. (It helps that they are light too!)
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Old 01-23-2018, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by rcgod View Post
An update on the spur gear issue. A friend of mine has gone thru 4 spurs in the last 2 weeks, even using the exotek diff support. They were told to use an associated pinion at the reedy race last week and ran the whole race with no failures. Something about the pitch on other pinions that doesn't agree with the tekno spur. Don't shoot the messenger here, I'm just passing the info along. Lol.
What brand had your friend been using?
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Old 01-23-2018, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by blueflagger View Post
What brand had your friend been using?
Losi and Robinson.
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Old 01-23-2018, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by rcgod View Post
An update on the spur gear issue. A friend of mine has gone thru 4 spurs in the last 2 weeks, even using the exotek diff support. They were told to use an associated pinion at the reedy race last week and ran the whole race with no failures. Something about the pitch on other pinions that doesn't agree with the tekno spur. Don't shoot the messenger here, I'm just passing the info along. Lol.
My money is on too loose of a mesh. Iím still using my first ones.
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Old 01-23-2018, 10:12 AM
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And that’s with my old TLR Steel pinions
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Old 01-23-2018, 10:27 AM
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I use Yeah Racing pinions, they look very similar to the AE's.
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Old 01-23-2018, 10:47 AM
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I've used Exotek POM pinions and have not stripped the stock spur or the new Exotek diff/spur combo. I also think it has more to do with the mesh but the AE pinion and others mentioned maybe have a more tapered edge that is more forgiving to the stock spurs. That's my guess as to why the AE pinions get recommended over any others by Tekno.
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Old 01-23-2018, 11:08 AM
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I have been liking the aluminum schumacher pinions, haven't had an issue yet and have changed my pinions from 30 down to 24 all have meshed just fine without issues. They are pretty light as well.

When I set my mesh I make it so there is just the tiniest bit of play between the teeth. At first glance it looks tight but you can move the spur a CH before making contact.

Also I am still running the stock spur mount and was still running my original spur gear until I switched the diff out for the exotek spool.
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Last edited by Tbuggy; 01-23-2018 at 01:00 PM.
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Old 01-23-2018, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Tbuggy View Post
I have been liking the aluminum schumacher pinions, haven't had an issue yet and have changed my pinions from 30 down to 24 all have meshed just fine without issues. They are pretty light as well.

When I set my mesh I make it so there is just the tiniest bit of play between the teeth. At first glance it looks tight but you can move the spur a CH before making contact.

Also I am still running the stock spur mount and was still running my original spur gear until I switched the diff out for the exotek spool.
Let us know how long the spool lasts.. Keep close eye on the out drives.

I have been using 175RC pinions and have had no issues.
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