Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Tekno RC EB410 Thread >

Tekno RC EB410 Thread

Like Tree2359Likes

Tekno RC EB410 Thread

    Hide Wikipost
Old 05-13-2019, 06:33 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:
  • Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
  • Gear differentials (all 3)
  • Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
  • Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
  • Reverse bellcrank steering system
  • Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • 8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
  • 13mm big bore shocks
  • 3.5mm shock shafts
  • Droop screws

Videos
Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
  • Preference for Associated factory team pinions
  • Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
  • Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
  • Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
  • For comparison:
  • B64 is 2.47:1
  • 22-4 is 2.4:1
  • YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels
  • B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
  • 22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
  • B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
  • 22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!


Build Tips:
  • When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head

  • Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock

  • Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification

  • Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment

  • Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
  • To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
  • pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
    More shock build tips here
  • Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
  • Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.

  • When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
  • When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
  • If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.

  • Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings


  • Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494


  • Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

    This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

    Joey A.

    So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

    -Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

    -Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

    -Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

    -Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

    -Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

    -Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

    Sorry for the shity grammar,
    TJR

    Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

Print Wikipost

Reply

Old 12-22-2017, 04:50 AM
  #2896  
Super Moderator
iTrader: (21)
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 8,602
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by keyesgood View Post
7000 f 200.000 m r 5000
you're running 200k center? man that's crazy thick. We're running 60k at most, even on super high grip. 20k, 30k, 10k is what I'm running.
Bob Barry is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2017, 05:22 AM
  #2897  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (96)
 
thumper_pa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: freedom,pa
Posts: 2,019
Trader Rating: 96 (96%+)
Default Diff

10k front
20k center
5k rear
That’s what I’m running now going to try 8k front 25k center and leave the rear at 5k but I should note my driving style is not your A typical 1/8 scale type of wide open or off the throttle I drive more like you would a tc or 1/12 road course carpet car cause that is what I started out racing so I use the whole entire trigger try to be smooth as I can
thumper_pa is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2017, 06:24 AM
  #2898  
Tech Legend
iTrader: (256)
 
Cain's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: West Fargo, North Dakota
Posts: 31,747
Trader Rating: 256 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
you're running 200k center? man that's crazy thick. We're running 60k at most, even on super high grip. 20k, 30k, 10k is what I'm running.
I tried 20-80-10 recently on gray ozite carpet with slicks, I liked the response of the center but will probably go down on the front and rear as I felt I gave up a bit in rotation versus what I was using on another car (that one I think is 10-30-4)
Cain is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2017, 06:55 AM
  #2899  
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Harford Co. Maryland
Posts: 1,110
Trader Rating: 41 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Cain View Post
I tried 20-80-10 recently on gray ozite carpet with slicks, I liked the response of the center but will probably go down on the front and rear as I felt I gave up a bit in rotation versus what I was using on another car (that one I think is 10-30-4)
I'm running 15-60-7 on Gray Ozite. It rotates really well, and straightens right up on throttle coming out of turns
Cain likes this.
Scott R is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2017, 07:06 AM
  #2900  
Tech Legend
iTrader: (256)
 
Cain's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: West Fargo, North Dakota
Posts: 31,747
Trader Rating: 256 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Scott R View Post
I'm running 15-60-7 on Gray Ozite. It rotates really well, and straightens right up on throttle coming out of turns
Good info. Yeah that was pretty much the thing I needed on my vehicle other than getting rid of a bit of rear end "pack bounce' off of jumps.
Cain is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2017, 07:06 AM
  #2901  
Super Moderator
iTrader: (21)
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 8,602
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Cain View Post
I tried 20-80-10 recently on gray ozite carpet with slicks, I liked the response of the center but will probably go down on the front and rear as I felt I gave up a bit in rotation versus what I was using on another car (that one I think is 10-30-4)
I watched that video of your car and your car is way too loose. I would be on kit diffs (15-15-7) LOL.
Bob Barry is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2017, 07:10 AM
  #2902  
Super Moderator
iTrader: (21)
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 8,602
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Cain View Post
Good info. Yeah that was pretty much the thing I needed on my vehicle other than getting rid of a bit of rear end "pack bounce' off of jumps.
did you switch to 2.1 pistons with 725cst oil in the rear yet?
Bob Barry is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2017, 07:51 AM
  #2903  
Tech Legend
iTrader: (256)
 
Cain's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: West Fargo, North Dakota
Posts: 31,747
Trader Rating: 256 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
I watched that video of your car and your car is way too loose. I would be on kit diffs (15-15-7) LOL.
The Wohler diff setup actually worked pretty well other than needing a bit more punch (hence the higher center diff). Part of it too I think was tire selection as well. I may go back to my AKA tires as the Jconcepts Gold Octogons were just okay. AKA clays offer a bit more grip on the surface.

Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
did you switch to 2.1 pistons with 725cst oil in the rear yet?
I was still on stock rears for pistons. next race I am going to 2.0 pistons on the rear with 650 or 700cst I am thinking. The surface is a bit more bumpier than what is common for other carpet setups (I actually like this) so I felt slightly lighter oils works better.

I'll also probably try out the slipper setup too.
Cain is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2017, 09:10 AM
  #2904  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (20)
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Seattle
Posts: 805
Trader Rating: 20 (95%+)
Default

Originally Posted by FastPete View Post
Hi

As said on the FB post. Anyone that purchased a RF tower through FRC email RF and copy us on it, with invoice number, and a pic, and a replacement will be sent out no questions asked. We have sent two so far.

Hats off to RF for thinking out of the box, and standing behind their products. Great customer service on both parts. And they are working hard as we speak to improve it. Nothing is unbreakable, the point is to make it more difficult to break and less often.

Pete

Fierce RC Solutions
Hats off to you, Awesome customer service!

Got my replacement tower yesterday!

Pete and Raceform Thank you!
Antimullet likes this.
Tbuggy is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2017, 11:05 AM
  #2905  
Super Moderator
iTrader: (21)
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 8,602
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Cain View Post
The Wohler diff setup actually worked pretty well other than needing a bit more punch (hence the higher center diff). Part of it too I think was tire selection as well. I may go back to my AKA tires as the Jconcepts Gold Octogons were just okay. AKA clays offer a bit more grip on the surface.



I was still on stock rears for pistons. next race I am going to 2.0 pistons on the rear with 650 or 700cst I am thinking. The surface is a bit more bumpier than what is common for other carpet setups (I actually like this) so I felt slightly lighter oils works better.

I'll also probably try out the slipper setup too.
take my advice and go 2.0 with 650 or 2.1 with 725. I keep telling guys this is the single biggest change that impacted my car.

I would also do the stuff that Matt was saying (loosen certain screws, run no rear braces, etc.) so that you get roll and flex. You have to be on the lowest grip carpet I've ever seen

Oh and I would avoid a slipper setup if that example is what you see for a typical track. You'll end up hating life. Stick to a low grip clay setup.
billdelong likes this.
Bob Barry is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2017, 11:19 AM
  #2906  
Tech Legend
iTrader: (256)
 
Cain's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: West Fargo, North Dakota
Posts: 31,747
Trader Rating: 256 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
take my advice and go 2.0 with 650 or 2.1 with 725. I keep telling guys this is the single biggest change that impacted my car.

I would also do the stuff that Matt was saying (loosen certain screws, run no rear braces, etc.) so that you get roll and flex. You have to be on the lowest grip carpet I've ever seen

Oh and I would avoid a slipper setup if that example is what you see for a typical track. You'll end up hating life. Stick to a low grip clay setup.
Thanks. Yeah the piston setup is next on the agenda. I'll still be trying the slipper setup due to my driving style but will have the center diff on the ready just in case and will report how it goes.

Yeah that carpet is loose and bumpy at times. Fun though
Cain is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2017, 09:20 PM
  #2907  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
 
RazorRC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 693
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

FYI, I found that the aluminum SCT410.3 hexes are 0.25 mm narrower per hex, so they reduce the overall width by 0.5 mm.
RazorRC is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2017, 10:46 PM
  #2908  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (132)
 
RC*PHREAK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 4,901
Trader Rating: 132 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by FastPete View Post
Hi

As said on the FB post. Anyone that purchased a RF tower through FRC email RF and copy us on it, with invoice number, and a pic, and a replacement will be sent out no questions asked. We have sent two so far.

Hats off to RF for thinking out of the box, and standing behind their products. Great customer service on both parts. And they are working hard as we speak to improve it. Nothing is unbreakable, the point is to make it more difficult to break and less often.

Pete

Fierce RC Solutions
shock level? ZERO

pete is one of the "good guys" in RC. i highly encourage everyone who buys tekno parts online to give pete your business. he will not disappoint.
Antimullet and suzukipro like this.
RC*PHREAK is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2017, 06:44 AM
  #2909  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (4)
 
platgof's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 3,422
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

I find it so confusing reading different set ups, trying to differentiate between carpet and clay. I know they are not the same. What diff oil is best for clay, and what pistons?
platgof is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2017, 10:19 AM
  #2910  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 151
Default servo horn

I stripped my plastic stock servo horn. Is there anything special regarding the metal ones I need to look for?
ryan391 is offline  
Reply With Quote

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us Archive Advertising Cookie Policy Privacy Statement Terms of Service