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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

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Old 03-21-2018, 01:17 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: billdelong
Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:
  • Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
  • Gear differentials (all 3)
  • Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
  • Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
  • Reverse bellcrank steering system
  • Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • 8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
  • 13mm big bore shocks
  • 3.5mm shock shafts
  • Droop screws

Videos
Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
  • Preference for Associated factory team pinions
  • Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
  • Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
  • Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
  • For comparison:
  • B64 is 2.47:1
  • 22-4 is 2.4:1
  • YZ4 is 2.6:1
Wheels
  • B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
  • 22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
  • B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
  • 22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!


Build Tips:
  • When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head

  • Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock

  • Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification

  • Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment

  • Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
  • To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
  • pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
    More shock build tips here
  • Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
  • Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.

  • When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
  • When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
  • If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.

  • Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings


  • Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494


  • Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

    This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

    Joey A.

    So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

    -Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

    -Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

    -Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

    -Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

    -Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

    -Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

    Sorry for the shity grammar,
    TJR

    Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

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Old 12-22-2017, 08:06 AM
  #2896  
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Originally Posted by Scott R View Post
I'm running 15-60-7 on Gray Ozite. It rotates really well, and straightens right up on throttle coming out of turns
Good info. Yeah that was pretty much the thing I needed on my vehicle other than getting rid of a bit of rear end "pack bounce' off of jumps.
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Old 12-22-2017, 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
I tried 20-80-10 recently on gray ozite carpet with slicks, I liked the response of the center but will probably go down on the front and rear as I felt I gave up a bit in rotation versus what I was using on another car (that one I think is 10-30-4)
I watched that video of your car and your car is way too loose. I would be on kit diffs (15-15-7) LOL.
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Old 12-22-2017, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
Good info. Yeah that was pretty much the thing I needed on my vehicle other than getting rid of a bit of rear end "pack bounce' off of jumps.
did you switch to 2.1 pistons with 725cst oil in the rear yet?
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Old 12-22-2017, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
I watched that video of your car and your car is way too loose. I would be on kit diffs (15-15-7) LOL.
The Wohler diff setup actually worked pretty well other than needing a bit more punch (hence the higher center diff). Part of it too I think was tire selection as well. I may go back to my AKA tires as the Jconcepts Gold Octogons were just okay. AKA clays offer a bit more grip on the surface.

Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
did you switch to 2.1 pistons with 725cst oil in the rear yet?
I was still on stock rears for pistons. next race I am going to 2.0 pistons on the rear with 650 or 700cst I am thinking. The surface is a bit more bumpier than what is common for other carpet setups (I actually like this) so I felt slightly lighter oils works better.

I'll also probably try out the slipper setup too.
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Old 12-22-2017, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by FastPete View Post
Hi

As said on the FB post. Anyone that purchased a RF tower through FRC email RF and copy us on it, with invoice number, and a pic, and a replacement will be sent out no questions asked. We have sent two so far.

Hats off to RF for thinking out of the box, and standing behind their products. Great customer service on both parts. And they are working hard as we speak to improve it. Nothing is unbreakable, the point is to make it more difficult to break and less often.

Pete

Fierce RC Solutions
Hats off to you, Awesome customer service!

Got my replacement tower yesterday!

Pete and Raceform Thank you!
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Old 12-22-2017, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
The Wohler diff setup actually worked pretty well other than needing a bit more punch (hence the higher center diff). Part of it too I think was tire selection as well. I may go back to my AKA tires as the Jconcepts Gold Octogons were just okay. AKA clays offer a bit more grip on the surface.



I was still on stock rears for pistons. next race I am going to 2.0 pistons on the rear with 650 or 700cst I am thinking. The surface is a bit more bumpier than what is common for other carpet setups (I actually like this) so I felt slightly lighter oils works better.

I'll also probably try out the slipper setup too.
take my advice and go 2.0 with 650 or 2.1 with 725. I keep telling guys this is the single biggest change that impacted my car.

I would also do the stuff that Matt was saying (loosen certain screws, run no rear braces, etc.) so that you get roll and flex. You have to be on the lowest grip carpet I've ever seen

Oh and I would avoid a slipper setup if that example is what you see for a typical track. You'll end up hating life. Stick to a low grip clay setup.
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Old 12-22-2017, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
take my advice and go 2.0 with 650 or 2.1 with 725. I keep telling guys this is the single biggest change that impacted my car.

I would also do the stuff that Matt was saying (loosen certain screws, run no rear braces, etc.) so that you get roll and flex. You have to be on the lowest grip carpet I've ever seen

Oh and I would avoid a slipper setup if that example is what you see for a typical track. You'll end up hating life. Stick to a low grip clay setup.
Thanks. Yeah the piston setup is next on the agenda. I'll still be trying the slipper setup due to my driving style but will have the center diff on the ready just in case and will report how it goes.

Yeah that carpet is loose and bumpy at times. Fun though
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Old 12-22-2017, 10:20 PM
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FYI, I found that the aluminum SCT410.3 hexes are 0.25 mm narrower per hex, so they reduce the overall width by 0.5 mm.
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Old 12-22-2017, 11:46 PM
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Originally Posted by FastPete View Post
Hi

As said on the FB post. Anyone that purchased a RF tower through FRC email RF and copy us on it, with invoice number, and a pic, and a replacement will be sent out no questions asked. We have sent two so far.

Hats off to RF for thinking out of the box, and standing behind their products. Great customer service on both parts. And they are working hard as we speak to improve it. Nothing is unbreakable, the point is to make it more difficult to break and less often.

Pete

Fierce RC Solutions
shock level? ZERO

pete is one of the "good guys" in RC. i highly encourage everyone who buys tekno parts online to give pete your business. he will not disappoint.
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Old 12-23-2017, 07:44 AM
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I find it so confusing reading different set ups, trying to differentiate between carpet and clay. I know they are not the same. What diff oil is best for clay, and what pistons?
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Old 12-23-2017, 11:19 AM
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Default servo horn

I stripped my plastic stock servo horn. Is there anything special regarding the metal ones I need to look for?
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Old 12-23-2017, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by ryan391 View Post
I stripped my plastic stock servo horn. Is there anything special regarding the metal ones I need to look for?
If servo is 25T, might as well get the Tekno horn specifically made for EB410. Otherwise, aluminum horns from other brands with different tooth counts will work, just got make sure there’s no interference and is right length and shape depending on if you’re using standard height versus low-profile servo. Tekno horn can be used either way.

My servo is low-profile with 23T, horn has two spots for ball. Using one furthest out, ball end would click slightly against steering link, so switched to inner spot on horn and increased EPA to compensate for lost throw, works fine.
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Old 12-23-2017, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
In theory the lower the grip levels, the lower the diff oils. Now that's theory and obviously needs to be tweaked with each driver.

I plan on trying the setup that Ryan used in Ohio with the kit diff oils because my track is less grip than his, smaller and tighter, and has a lot of 180s. So I want the car to rotate on a dime through those turns. Going up on the diffs could make my faster but harder to drive on the lower grip surface.
I was thinking the same , Did your run the Ohio setup with stock diffs ?
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Old 12-23-2017, 01:38 PM
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What gearing is recommended for 13.5?
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Old 12-23-2017, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
you're running 200k center? man that's crazy thick. We're running 60k at most, even on super high grip. 20k, 30k, 10k is what I'm running.

That's what I thought.

I thought is was crazy until I tried it . It works much better with the 7000 front
And 5000 rear if you go too high in the front and rear . You don't get the traction. And speed .

We run outdoor medium size clay tracks . Medium grip . Some high bite .

TeknoRC EB410 - Mike Keyes - Keilor - 16.12.2017
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