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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

05-13-2019, 06:33 AM - Wikipost

R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread

Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.

Last edit by: tobamiester

Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:

Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
Gear differentials (all 3)
Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
Reverse bellcrank steering system
Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
13mm big bore shocks
3.5mm shock shafts
Droop screws

Videos

Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:

Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.

Preference for Associated factory team pinions
Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
For comparison:
B64 is 2.47:1
22-4 is 2.4:1
YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels

B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Ryan Lutz Setups
Instruction Manual
EB410 Resources
Ryan Lutz IOCC blog
PT Oil CST conversion Chart
List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:

GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.
Harbor Freight 0.5mm - 3.0mm bit set * 2.1mm not included

Aftermarket Upgrades:

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Build Tips:

When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head
Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock
Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification
Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment
Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
More shock build tips here
Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.
When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.
Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings
Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494
Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

Joey A.

So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

-Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

-Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

-Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

-Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

-Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

-Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

Sorry for the shity grammar,
TJR

Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

Exotek Sway Bar Mount http://www.exotekracing.com/eb410-re...ar-mount-6061/

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10-31-2017, 11:10 AM

#2011

Tbuggy

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Cain

having put together quite a few diffs in a variety of vehicles, I thought that too while i tried to line it up and get it to go.

The fact of the matter is something that may be silly to you may help someone else get things built together easier to go and drive if a better way is out there. Example, the threading of the shock caps for one or when we came up with how to put the rear linkage on the shock tower on the first SCT410 by reversing the nut direction making it easier to get to

I would have to agree those shock caps were almost ridiculous to find the threads! Once on they are fine but I would suggest being very patient and keep a close eye when getting them started so you are not cross threading them.

Also noticed that in the manual it mentions drilling out the bleeder hole with a 1/16th drill bit. This is not needed IMO and I don't think that the bleeder screw will work if you did so either. I skipped this step when I noticed this.

EbbTide likes this.

10-31-2017, 11:13 AM

#2012

RazorRC

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Quote:

Originally Posted by EbbTide

It's easier said than done when dealing with a Tower Hobbies pre order lol

I'm still waiting for the durn thing!

Mine is supposed to get delivered Thursday from Tower, we'll see! 3 weeks late isn't too bad I suppose. Or has it been 4?

10-31-2017, 11:15 AM

#2013

EbbTide

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I kept telling myself I wasn't going to stock up on spares for this buggy because it's new and parts will obviously be made for a very long time. But my paranoia from dealing with my DEX210 has resulted in a giant pile of parts I just received from Amain lol. Even some spare Lunsford turnbuckles .

I should be broke by Christmas

Matthew_Armeni, billdelong and lowspark like this.

10-31-2017, 01:04 PM

#2014

nesbot

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Quote:

Originally Posted by EbbTide

I should be broke by Christmas

My spare method is to make my son run the same car

EbbTide and suzukipro like this.

10-31-2017, 01:11 PM

#2015

EbbTide

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Quote:

Originally Posted by nesbot

My spare method is to make my son run the same car

lol! "Sorry son, I'm gonna need your hingepins today"

suzukipro, jmcelroy42 and nesbot like this.

10-31-2017, 02:41 PM

#2016

justpoet

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While not everything is 100% applicable to the small car, the diffs build essentially the same as the large vehicles, so here's my diff build video tutorial from the ET48. The drop through and sight methods both work well, though I always point the pins at the screws so it is always easy to not guess on things. Slightly longer of a video, but it explains pretty much everything (including a couple things you don't need to worry about here). Never had a leaking diff or diff construction issue since I stopped running the original Losi SCTE. LOL

+ YouTube Video

DG Designs and EbbTide like this.

11-01-2017, 06:53 AM

#2017

ljungberg

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Recieved my Tekno a couple of weeks ago.

The build was good and the manual one of the best on the market in my oppinion.

The only complaint about the quality on the kit is the shock caps. I preffer aluminium as I change oil very frequent on my cars.

Overall a great kit. Run HW XR10 Pro and HW V10 5.5 motor in mine with great result. Have also had issues with turnbuckles, 2 of them have been replaced after broken in half..

Run all CF parts on mine now with different springs and front and rear swaybar kits.

Will go for Lunsford turnbuckles and waiting for alu caps to be released for the Tekno EB410.

Cain and EbbTide like this.

11-01-2017, 08:36 AM

#2018

YMMV

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Quote:

Originally Posted by ljungberg

Welcome to the madness!

Finally got my kit yesterday and dying to build it! My 3rd Tekno aside from my SCT410 and EB48SL.

ljungberg likes this.

11-01-2017, 08:44 AM

#2019

AJrollin

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So another guy at the with an EB410 came up to me and showed me that he had rubbing on the rear axles where the spring cups are from the rear shocks. It appears that with stock setup there is some very tight to no clearance causing the spring cups to ever so slightly rub the rear axles. Now this is not a big deal, just thought I would mention it. I never saw it on mine as I have my rear arms all the way forward...I also put a washer behind the shock eyelet to get about 1mm clearance just to be sure.

E-Mann likes this.

11-01-2017, 09:19 AM

#2020

JRSlash

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I noticed that. I put a 1mm shim between the arm and the shock eyelet. One run before that and the anodizing on the shafts was rubbed off because the spring cup.

Also, I noticed that the springs can go over the bottom cups. After I finished the race Saturday, I went to work on my shocks and a front spring went pass the bottom cup. The lip that holds the spring is really thin.

11-01-2017, 09:32 AM

#2021

Cain

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with the spring size, wonder if any other cups out there can work? Does anyone else use a similar sized shock body ( I think Caster does?)

11-01-2017, 10:35 AM

#2022

E-Mann

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I know some of this has been discussed on the Facebook site (not by me), I thought I would share some observations on compatibility (fit only) with AE B64 and XB4 parts.

Center differential:
XB4 NOT compatible. Internal (plastic) gears NOT compatible.
B64D compatible when used with carbon center brace 6635C. Shims are needed to reduce slop. Internal gears not compatible. Stock weight with 81t spur is 43g vs stock EB410 is 34g. I don't have plastic B64 gears to check the weight.

Center slipper:
XB4 NOT compatible. Bearing spacing too wide and outdrives too long.
B64 slipper (92089) is compatible with carbon center brace 6635C and AE 110mm front dogbone (92065). The 78t spur (9652) works with this setup. Shims (at least 8) are used to reduce slop between bearings. Rubber spacers in outdrives recomended. Net weight of B64 slipper, 78t spur and 110 dogbone is 42g (33g slipper + 9g dogbone) vs 40g (34g diff + 6g dogbone) for EB410 front dogbone and gear diff. If going this route you may want to buy Shelle SHL1307. This comes with the AE 110 dogbone and 78t spur. I have not tested this but don't see why it wouldn't work.

I am in the process of converting my EB410 to a carpet setup. My plan is to start with the stock gear diff with 15K (will be running 13.5). Depending on how that feels, either go higher on diff oil or go to the AE slipper. There was a user on Facebook that tried the exotek eliminator (for B64) and found he liked the gear diff with 30K better.

11-01-2017, 10:36 AM

#2023

AJrollin

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I had the spring come off also, I just took out the long setscrew that goes through the cup and shock end and that solved the issue. Maybe I'm missing something but not really sure why this long set screw is needed, I've never had a cup come off...there's already a lot of engagement

11-01-2017, 10:44 AM

#2024

Cain

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For screw you removed, what was your reasoning to remove it? Part of me is thinking that the cup can then Flex more relative to the spring but not sure.