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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

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Old 05-13-2019, 06:33 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:
  • Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
  • Gear differentials (all 3)
  • Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
  • Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
  • Reverse bellcrank steering system
  • Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • 8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
  • 13mm big bore shocks
  • 3.5mm shock shafts
  • Droop screws

Videos
Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
  • Preference for Associated factory team pinions
  • Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
  • Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
  • Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
  • For comparison:
  • B64 is 2.47:1
  • 22-4 is 2.4:1
  • YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels
  • B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
  • 22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
  • B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
  • 22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!


Build Tips:
  • When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head

  • Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock

  • Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification

  • Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment

  • Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
  • To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
  • pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
    More shock build tips here
  • Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
  • Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.

  • When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
  • When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
  • If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.

  • Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings


  • Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494


  • Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

    This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

    Joey A.

    So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

    -Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

    -Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

    -Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

    -Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

    -Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

    -Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

    Sorry for the shity grammar,
    TJR

    Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

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Old 10-17-2017, 05:55 PM
  #1666  
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I noticed that on page 10 of the manual there is no call out for a set screw to go in the adjacent hole to the ball stud on the rear hub carriers, unlike the front which does call for a setscrews to support the hole. I hade the ball stud crush the adjacent hole rear carriers on my 22 4 a few times from some side hits , so I would think you would definitely want it on the back. Not sure if there was a reason for not putting one in the rear hubs ,but I put them in mine. Maybe some one from Tekno can comment. Thanks

Did not get down to the track today..work screwd up all my plans..but tomorrow its on
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Old 10-17-2017, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by MattDub
Hey Drebi,
You might be referring to the Ricochet setup. I used the stock rear camber mount with two m3x8 (TKR1221) washers under the ball studs and the optional LRC C and D blocks that lower the pills by 2mm. The LRC C and D blocks should be released shortly. In the meantime, you can lower the C and D pills to the lowest position. Mason Eppley did this on astro and it worked well. Did not use the lower tower, it was the full height rear tower.
Thanks dude
P.S. how was pocker in Vegas?
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Old 10-17-2017, 06:20 PM
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I got a chance to build one this past weekend and ran it this evening on a dirt track using Hole shots. Totally box stock oils, springs and set up. I was impressed how well the rear stayed planted through the sitchback section and powering out of 180 degree corners, some of which are off camber and even a little up hill. No issue laying down the power onto the straight either, I tried to get the rear end to break loose but she kept tracking straight. It was a bit damp this evening so traction was high for out door dirt but I came away impressed. I'd liked to have tried some weight in the back to see how it would change the feel but it didn't seem to need it. It jumped well, no crazy nose diving or anything weird. I really liked the big shocks too. Nice kit.
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Old 10-17-2017, 07:31 PM
  #1669  
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how do 4wd 10th scale cars compare to driving an 8th scale ebuggy? never owned a 10th scale car but thinking of getting one of these.
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Old 10-17-2017, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by pballer2777
how do 4wd 10th scale cars compare to driving an 8th scale ebuggy? never owned a 10th scale car but thinking of getting one of these.
I race both classes but on different tracks where the 1/10 track is turf... which is high traction, literally point and shoot... setup is very forgiving. On the 1/8 dirt track, conditions vary throughout the day depending on track temps, wind, how much water is sprayed and race order... tire selection becomes critical and setup can be very challenging when factoring the myriad of track conditions. It's like comparing apples to oranges.
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Old 10-17-2017, 08:15 PM
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Going from 1/8 dirt to 1/10 dirt is like going from a fast golf cart to a go cart. same only much faster reaction time.
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Old 10-17-2017, 09:41 PM
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Default Yokomo yz4 fr/rears fit on eb410

I'm trying to find some person that's tried the yokomo front yz4 wheels . On the eb410

Because iv been told I need the +1 hex . Then been told they fit on the b64d fine .

So has any one drive the 410 with yz4 fronts and rears on the buggy


Cheers

Mk
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Old 10-17-2017, 11:57 PM
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How could someone get a slim shorty to stay in place

Thanks
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Old 10-18-2017, 03:16 AM
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Originally Posted by keyesgood
I'm trying to find some person that's tried the yokomo front yz4 wheels . On the eb410

Because iv been told I need the +1 hex . Then been told they fit on the b64d fine .

So has any one drive the 410 with yz4 fronts and rears on the buggy


Cheers

Mk
If the YZ4 wheels fit on the B64 and have the correct width, then you will need the +1 to use them on the EB410, because you also need to use the +1 on the Eb410 with B64 fronts.
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Old 10-18-2017, 03:20 AM
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Originally Posted by pballer2777
how do 4wd 10th scale cars compare to driving an 8th scale ebuggy? never owned a 10th scale car but thinking of getting one of these.
Our track runs 1/8 indoors. So I run Both that and 1/10 on the same track. they drive fairly similar, 1/10 feels slightly quicker and easier to drive, much more nimble. But the 1/8 usually has a better lap time by about 0.3 sec or so.
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Old 10-18-2017, 05:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Allen Drebi
How could someone get a slim shorty to stay in place

Thanks
Foam between the battery and the strap.
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Old 10-18-2017, 05:54 AM
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Alright... So, which brand of drill bits fits best? I have some AE drill bits, and they are a little on the "too big" side.. I almost have to snap the screw/set screw onto it..

Not to mention, the 1.5 screws in the diffs worry me.. I'd hate to strip one of those out in between quals.. I know that size/space is a factor, but would there be any possibility of 2.0 screws for the diffs???
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Old 10-18-2017, 06:00 AM
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what are the rims of choice with the stock hexes?
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Old 10-18-2017, 06:13 AM
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Originally Posted by strodedawg
what are the rims of choice with the stock hexes?
Stock hexes accept TLR 22-4 front wheels and AE/TLR rear wheels for sure. Others have commented what has worked for them if you can skim the last 5-10 pages.
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Old 10-18-2017, 06:29 AM
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Originally Posted by WonTonsChicken
Alright... So, which brand of drill bits fits best? I have some AE drill bits, and they are a little on the "too big" side.. I almost have to snap the screw/set screw onto it..

Not to mention, the 1.5 screws in the diffs worry me.. I'd hate to strip one of those out in between quals.. I know that size/space is a factor, but would there be any possibility of 2.0 screws for the diffs???
I only use fresh MIP bits when having to deal with 1.5mm or smaller. They've never (so far) stripped my diffs screws in my dex210. And I believe they are smaller than the eb410 screws.
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