Wheels

• B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
• 22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
• B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
• 22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

• Ryan Lutz Setups
• Instruction Manual
• EB410 Resources
• Ryan Lutz IOCC blog
• PT Oil CST conversion Chart
• List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:

• GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
• 16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.
• Harbor Freight 0.5mm - 3.0mm bit set * 2.1mm not included

Aftermarket Upgrades:

• M2C Racing Upgrades
• Avid RC Upgrades
• Bearing Kit (Ceramic/Revolution/Rubber/Metal): AVID
• Exotek upgrades: Center Spool, weight sets,aluminum upgrades etc.
• Chassis Protectors: Dutch Oven Designs
• Turnbuckles: Lunsford Kit (3.6mm turnbuckle wrench) Lunsford = 8.6g and Stock = 14.5g - Pro Tip
• Shock Mounts: Lunsford Kit with bushings - Lunsford = 1.8g - Stock = 2.2g
• Leadfinger Racing A2 Tactic Body
• Diggity Designs - EB410 Carbon Fiber Upgrades
• Bezerk - EB410 Carbon Fiber Upgrades
• HoBao 3x35mm rear outer hinge pins
• Raceform CNC Radio Tray
• VRP Aluminum Upgrades
• T-Works Titanium Upgrades
• MIP Lightened Shaft System
• T-Bone Racing - Delrin Front Bumper
• MIP Shock Cartridge Kit
• Kimbrough Carbon Pinion Gears
  
• RDRP Option Parts
  

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!


Build Tips:

• When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head
  
  
• Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock
  
  
• Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification
  
  
• Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment
  
  
• Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
  
• To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
  
• pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
  More shock build tips here
  
• Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
  
• Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.
  
  
• When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
  
• When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
  
• If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.
  
  
• Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings
  
  
  
• Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut
  
  https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494
  
  
  
• Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm
  
  This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.
  
  Joey A.
  
  So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.
  
  -Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.
  
  -Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.
  
  -Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.
  
  -Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).
  
  -Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.
  
  -Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.
  
  Sorry for the shity grammar,
  TJR
  
  Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq