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Old 08-01-2017, 03:20 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated RC10B64 Thread
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Welcome to the B64 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Petit RC Page

B64D Manual

Aftermarket Upgrades

Welcome to the B64 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Petit RC Page

B64D Manual

Aftermarket Upgrades

Aftermarket parts

Helpful Tips and Videos

How to properly Shim the B64 Diffs

B64 Club Racer video

Helpful Tips and Videos

How to properly Shim the B64 Diffs

B64 Club Racer video

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Old 07-24-2018, 03:58 PM
  #3691  
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Originally Posted by Bruce_R
The plastic gears are preferred by those who race because the weight or rotational mass, is lower with the plastic/composite gears vs the metal gears. I wouldn’t have thought something so small would make such a difference but people swear it does. I guess every bit helps.
thank you for the info, switching to plastic.
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Old 07-24-2018, 08:00 PM
  #3692  
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Or use b6.1 rear arm
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Old 07-25-2018, 03:52 AM
  #3693  
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Originally Posted by Phat-Boy
Or use b6.1 rear arm
Do they shorten the wheelbase by 2mm the same as a modified original arm? It may need less spacing for the shock as the wishbone mounting point seems further back on the B6.1 arms.
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Old 07-25-2018, 04:10 AM
  #3694  
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Originally Posted by Bruce_R
So the B64 kit has 7 degree caster blocks, and the other 2 kits, D and Club Racer, have 10 degree caster blocks. I see they also make 13 degree caster blocks. Is there a guide to what angle is best for each type of track? I run my B64 on indoor clay, but put the center diff in it. Should I consider the 10 or 13 degree caster block as well? Why or why not?
Good question ! as anyone got the answer ?

thank's
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Old 07-25-2018, 06:27 AM
  #3695  
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Kurtracing,

After not receiving a response here, I saw caster blocks (13 deg) available on the for sale area, and asked the same question there. See this thread (post 11):

Team Associated B64 Hop Up parts NIB
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Old 07-25-2018, 08:35 AM
  #3696  
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Originally Posted by stueys
Do they shorten the wheelbase by 2mm the same as a modified original arm? It may need less spacing for the shock as the wishbone mounting point seems further back on the B6.1 arms.
Wheelbase appears to be the same as a stock 64 arm. Lower shock mount moves forward by 2mm on 6.1 arm. If you use hingepins and line up both ends of the arm, they are the same length, width, and gullwing bend. The C shock position on the 6.1 arm is the same spot as the inner hole on the 64 arm. A&B positions are pretty soft, the furthest outside is inbetween the 64 arms 2 holes.

I'm thinking the 6.1 arms would work well with the rear tower flipped to the front side of the bulkhead. This would put the shocks in a better position and you wouldn't have to shim the shocks nearly as much.
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Old 07-25-2018, 12:44 PM
  #3697  
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Originally Posted by flintTRDTC


Not at all rocket science. You basically need to shave off the inner part of the rear arm. Almost flush with the rest of the arm, which gets you close. You then need to come up with screws and spacers for the top of the shocks so they line up right.
I used racers edge 30mm button head screws and schelle ballstud washers for the spacing on the upper shock mount. 30mm seems perfect length. I also move the rear inner camber ballstuds to the front of the tower.
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Old 07-25-2018, 04:51 PM
  #3698  
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Has there been a discussion yet about fans and what one do people prefer ? Ive been using the WTF fans but seems like after 2 race days they need to be replaced @ $16.00 a piece
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Old 07-25-2018, 06:58 PM
  #3699  
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Originally Posted by Cappy
Has there been a discussion yet about fans and what one do people prefer ? Ive been using the WTF fans but seems like after 2 race days they need to be replaced @ $16.00 a piece
I have had good luck with Jonny5ive Designs fans.
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Old 07-26-2018, 01:03 AM
  #3700  
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Originally Posted by Cappy
Has there been a discussion yet about fans and what one do people prefer ? Ive been using the WTF fans but seems like after 2 race days they need to be replaced @ $16.00 a piece

What are you doing to them to only last 2 days? I’ve had mine for 2 years.
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Old 07-26-2018, 05:25 AM
  #3701  
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Originally Posted by John Myall



What are you doing to them to only last 2 days? I’ve had mine for 2 years.
I think I can answer that as I've had the same issue.

I've had 2 x WTF fans last only one or two meetings, they were both taped to the chassis.

The latest one I've bolted to the rear edge of plastic side guard, basically drilled through from the front and put a nut in the triangular cutout on the rear edge. Since doing that the fan has had about 30 or 40 packs through it and still going strong.

I suspect that the fan is moving on the tape and some of the internal wire terminations are failing due to this.
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Old 07-26-2018, 05:55 AM
  #3702  
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Originally Posted by stueys
Do they shorten the wheelbase by 2mm the same as a modified original arm? It may need less spacing for the shock as the wishbone mounting point seems further back on the B6.1 arms.
3mm so you don't have to move hub forword
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Old 07-28-2018, 02:37 PM
  #3703  
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has anyone used the team associated alum steering rack #92104 if so how does it mount any pics would help.
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Old 07-29-2018, 07:02 PM
  #3704  
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Originally Posted by Braxamus
has anyone used the team associated alum steering rack #92104 if so how does it mount any pics would help.
What is your question, it is pretty straight forward
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Old 07-30-2018, 12:22 AM
  #3705  
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Originally Posted by Bruce_R
Kurtracing,

After not receiving a response here, I saw caster blocks (13 deg) available on the for sale area, and asked the same question there. See this thread (post 11):

Team Associated B64 Hop Up parts NIB
Thank's
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