Maraach

This was already partially covered in the thread but i thought id add a bit more info in case it helps someone with their purchasing decision.

There are a number of differences between the b64d and the club racer. These include:

* Shock towers (graphite vs carbon)
* Rear hexes (aluminium vs plastic)
* Servo top plate - carbon vs plastic
* no front sway bar on the club racer
* Diff gears - composite vs metal
* Different roll centre a arm holders

The manual specs differs between the two. Suspension oil, springs and pistons differ. As does the suggested way to setup all the turn buckles. I imagine these would feel like quite different cars to drive "out of the box"

PorTX

iTrader: (4)

Got my Hudy setup station today from the LHS! Guess we will see how close (or far) I was from calipers and eyeballing it!!

Davidka

iTrader: (86)

Graphite and carbon are technically the same thing, though I don't know why they'd interchange the words in marketing copy. 'Carbon' is a far more marketable word today.

RC-ZOMBIE

iTrader: (4)

Hello guys, may I ask for a good carpet hi grip indoor track set up? Because the manual kit set up in the back of the book does not match what it has you do while you assembling the car ....shock tower positions ABC and D mounts are different, rear hub links settings are different, hub inserts are different ... for instance the building steps say front shock 37.5 rear shock 27.5 then you go to the back at the kit set up it says 37.5 wt front 30 wt rear for shock springs it says yellow front rear green my kit came with purple fronts and white rears???? The pill locations are totally different just feeling really frustrated! I’m not worried about tires and thank you in advance.

Matt Trimmings

iTrader: (170)

Team Associated B64 & B64D Setup Sheets

RC-ZOMBIE

iTrader: (4)

Thank you sir

Maraach

Im not a materials expert so wont comment on your statement however can confirm that the shock towers between the two kits are indeed different - it isnt just terminology.

trf211

The b64CR front tower has only the inner row of camber links, while the b64 tower has 2 additional short camber link positions. The b64CR shock positions on the front tower are also located 1 position further outwards(shock more stood up). The same goes for the rear camber link area on the b64CR, it doesn't have the row of short camber link positions, but the shock mounting holes are in the same spot.

Maraach

Thanks for the detailed response - you seem to know your cars well. Do you know why the turn buckle setup between the 2 cars is so different?

Also does anyone know if the chassis is different? The standard seems a smoother metal and has the logo stamped.

trf211

The only thing I can think of off the top of my head is just to simplify the range of adjustments for the people buying it. As AE has the CR marketed as a buggy for people interested in getting started in 4wd racing.

I also notice the difference between the chassis in the CR and other kits. The chassis with the logo on it is a darker anodizing, could be a different metal or just harder coating. The CR chassis is a paler color, can't remember if the machining was any different.

Maraach

From what i understand the turnbuckles and ballcups themselves are identical - however the recommended lengths differ by a fair margin. This surprises me as if i understand correctly this would impact the geometary of the car? I would understand the b64 and b64d differing but they are they same - the b64CR is different on every measure though.

trf211

The turnbuckle lengths will differ depending on ride height, camber setting and the links position. The recommended lengths are just a guideline, they might end up slightly different for your particular setup.

trf211

CR towers vs standard towers. 2nd photo is of a b64 long tower so the shock positions are different.

TRIPLE 675

iTrader: (6)

Has anyone had any issues installing the battery spacers, specifically the rear one? I cannot seem to figure out how to secure it.

trf211

There should be a slot by the battery post that the tab of the battery spacer slides into. Sometimes it can be hard to get the spacer in and I recommend loosening the screws for the battery posts and retighten them after they are in place.