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Welcome to the B64 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Petit RC Page

B64D Manual

Aftermarket Upgrades

Welcome to the B64 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Petit RC Page

B64D Manual

Aftermarket Upgrades

Aftermarket parts

Helpful Tips and Videos

How to properly Shim the B64 Diffs

B64 Club Racer video

Helpful Tips and Videos

How to properly Shim the B64 Diffs

B64 Club Racer video

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Old 03-20-2017, 05:09 PM
  #1726  
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Originally Posted by 1/4milecrazy View Post
You have to be using the wrong wheels. Probably too thin of a bolting surface. Try a washer on the outside of the wheel.
I just ordered a new set of 4wd wheels, that should solve my problem.


However, I am curious to learn about the different hexes on the front of the B64. Wonder if that will be a mod I'd like to do.
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Old 03-20-2017, 07:26 PM
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I picked up a kit this weekend and starting building tonight. After I installed the front gearbox and top plate, I noticed that the steering rack hits the gearbox. Anyone else experience this? I suppose I could remove some material from the rack, but I'm worried since there are complaints about the rack breaking.
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Old 03-20-2017, 07:30 PM
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I noticed the same thing on my build. Once you do the front hubs and stuff, it doesn't travel far enough to hit (at least that's how mine turned out).
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Old 03-20-2017, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by slakr View Post
I noticed the same thing on my build. Once you do the front hubs and stuff, it doesn't travel far enough to hit (at least that's how mine turned out).
Thanks. I'll keep going and keep an eye on it.
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Old 03-20-2017, 07:47 PM
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Default Ensure servo is riding as low as possible in servo mounts

Originally Posted by dab4msu View Post
I picked up a kit this weekend and starting building tonight. After I installed the front gearbox and top plate, I noticed that the steering rack hits the gearbox. Anyone else experience this? I suppose I could remove some material from the rack, but I'm worried since there are complaints about the rack breaking.
What servo horn are you using? You can make a slight adjustment to the servo by loosening the servo bolts and pushing down on the servo in the servo mount. This worked for me.
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Old 03-21-2017, 05:36 AM
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So here's my carpet set-up, I pretty much emulated AE Stigs recommendations:
B64D
slipper 81/26 13.5T
Slipper dogbone set (where only the rear dogbone is different)
2 orings in front slipper outdrive, 3 in slipper rear outdrive
purple springs up front, 1.6 x 2 with 37.5 wt
gray spring in the rear 1.7 x 2 with 30 wt
17mm ride height
7 caster blocks
5mm front hexes
AE aluminum steering rack
camber links inside on shock tower, 2nd hole up from bottom front an rear
yellow swaybar up front
orange (front swaybar) in the rear
2 camber all the way around
about 2 of toe out
Schumacher cut staggers yellow up front
JConcepts Pin Downs in the rear

I havent gotten a chance to try it yet, last Thursday's practice was cancelled due to our blizzard. Looking forward to getting it on the track. Our track is ozite, small to medium, longest straight away is about 70-80ft.

Think I'm in the ball park?
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Old 03-21-2017, 05:41 AM
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Originally Posted by BigChris in PA View Post
So here's my carpet set-up, I pretty much emulated AE Stigs recommendations:
B64D
slipper 81/26 13.5T
Slipper dogbone set (where only the rear dogbone is different)
2 orings in front slipper outdrive, 3 in slipper rear outdrive
purple springs up front, 1.6 x 2 with 37.5 wt
gray spring in the rear 1.7 x 2 with 30 wt
17mm ride height
7 caster blocks
5mm front hexes
AE aluminum steering rack
camber links inside on shock tower, 2nd hole up from bottom front an rear
yellow swaybar up front
orange (front swaybar) in the rear
2 camber all the way around
about 2 of toe out
Schumacher cut staggers yellow up front
JConcepts Pin Downs in the rear

I havent gotten a chance to try it yet, last Thursday's practice was cancelled due to our blizzard. Looking forward to getting it on the track. Our track is ozite, small to medium, longest straight away is about 70-80ft.

Think I'm in the ball park?
Definitely in the ball park. Probably wont need that much camber. The car wont roll enought with the stiff springs and sway bars, but try it and see how it feels
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Old 03-21-2017, 05:59 AM
  #1733  
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im not seeing the breakage and bad design by AE
That others are. With 3 full practice days on the car and I mean full(full of sct's etc)lol I have had my share of pileups with out issue. Yes i have some perfect clay tracks here but i'm running a 5.5 motor so we are haulin!
Dnt mean to sound cocky but quit crashing and blaming AE. This is my 1st AE kit since the og tc3 came out so im no FanBoy but I have nothing but praise for this car.
Cheers
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Old 03-21-2017, 07:08 AM
  #1734  
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Originally Posted by dab4msu View Post
I picked up a kit this weekend and starting building tonight. After I installed the front gearbox and top plate, I noticed that the steering rack hits the gearbox. Anyone else experience this? I suppose I could remove some material from the rack, but I'm worried since there are complaints about the rack breaking.
the steering spindles at full lock will prevent the rack from traveling that far
everything should be fine once the front end is entirely together

Aaron
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Old 03-21-2017, 08:44 AM
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So what's the purported benefit on the D model of switching up to a 13 degree caster block? Why is everyone doing it?
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Old 03-21-2017, 09:41 AM
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Typically when you go up in number on Caster like from 9* to 13* its to calm down the steering and also make it exit the turns better.
Although sometimes that higher number results in a little push entering the corner.
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Old 03-21-2017, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by daedalus View Post
So what's the purported benefit on the D model of switching up to a 13 degree caster block? Why is everyone doing it?
More caster results in more weight transfer when the wheels are turned.

This is referred to as "mechanical weight jacking" and is a tuning option heavily used in oval racing, my familiarity comes from dirt oval karting.

Imagine this with your minds eye. Since the kingpin is inclined rearward, when the front wheels are turned the front axle of the inside tire travels downward as it passes through it's sweep of travel (going from straight ahead to full turn). At the same time the outside axle travels upward as it passes through its sweep of travel. Thus inside front tire pushes down, and the outside front tire is slightly raised. Among other things, this causes the chassis to want to "lean" or roll more toward the outside during the turn, thus helping to transfer weight to the outside front wheel. More caster, more weight transfer.

By transferring more weight to the outside tire, we can expect it to generate more grip (up to a point). Thus being a benefit on the "D" version, where we can expect dirt to have less grip than carpet.

Last edited by BigChris in PA; 03-21-2017 at 10:46 AM.
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Old 03-21-2017, 10:53 AM
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So if I want more rear grip do I want to raise or lower my roll center and narrow or widen my pivot point?
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Old 03-21-2017, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by AccessRacer View Post
So if I want more rear grip do I want to raise or lower my roll center and narrow or widen my pivot point?
Usually you want to widen the inner hinge pin pivot point and lower the roll center by raising the ball studs on the tower or lowering the inner hinge pin. However, if you go too far the car can start to feel lazy and you loose traction trying to do quick transitions.
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Last edited by Krio; 03-21-2017 at 11:41 AM.
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Old 03-21-2017, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Krio View Post
Usually you want to widen the inner hinge pin pivot point and lower the roll center by raising the ball studs on the tower or lowering the inner hinge pin. However, if you go to far the car can start to feel lazy and you loose traction trying to do quick transitions.
Thanks
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