53LikesTLR 22 SCT 3.0
08-13-2019, 09:36 AM
#766
We have post all the parts and a conversion kit on our website rclyfe.com
RCLYFE 22SCT LOWRIDER CONVERSION We also have the parts you can get on there own as well.
https://tinyurl.com/y25yktxx
The RCLYFE 22SCT LowRider Conversion kit (#RCL049) is designed to get the best performance, and handling out of your 22SCT. This is done by lowering roll-center, limiting the roll created by the suspension, smoothing out steering response, and bring the weight into the center line of the truck. Bringing out the best in your 22SCT.
Included in the kit:
Addition parts required to complete:
Let us know if you have any questions
RCLYFE 22SCT LOWRIDER CONVERSION We also have the parts you can get on there own as well.
https://tinyurl.com/y25yktxx
The RCLYFE 22SCT LowRider Conversion kit (#RCL049) is designed to get the best performance, and handling out of your 22SCT. This is done by lowering roll-center, limiting the roll created by the suspension, smoothing out steering response, and bring the weight into the center line of the truck. Bringing out the best in your 22SCT.
Included in the kit:
- RCL050 LowRider rear tower kit
- RCL051 LowRider front tower kit
- RCL052 In-Line lipo battery cradle
- RCL053 In-Line ESC tray
Addition parts required to complete:
- #TLR233045 x2 G3 Shock Kit
- #TLR334060 Carbon Tower Mount
- #Exotek1752 Laydown Body Mounts
- #TLR233027 x 2 G3 Buggy Front Shock Shafts
Let us know if you have any questions
08-13-2019, 09:11 PM
#767
Tech Apprentice
Mazur50.. Pretty slick looking. By running the battery in-line and the esc behind it puts more weight on the front and gives maybe a bit more steering traction but dont you lose rear traction on a indoor clay track? Are you running weights on the front or rear? Sway bars? .. it looks like you have all the the pieces to mount the rear bumper to the tower which is nice..
08-14-2019, 10:38 AM
#768
Originally Posted by Kswarrior
By running the battery in-line and the esc behind it puts more weight on the front and gives maybe a bit more steering traction but dont you lose rear traction on a indoor clay track?
08-14-2019, 03:24 PM
#770
Looks awesome!
08-15-2019, 07:48 AM
#771
Originally Posted by Frank Root
That depends greatly on the track... not all clay tracks are the same.
Last edited by 071crazy; 08-15-2019 at 08:00 AM.
08-15-2019, 01:49 PM
#772
Originally Posted by 071crazy
I get that, there's always an exception to the rule. Happy?
Sometimes, at some tracks, not traction rolling is a big challenge and something people look to improve with setup. Sometimes, at some tracks, traction rolling isn't an issue and creating grip and balance is something people look to improve.
08-15-2019, 04:06 PM
#773
Tech Apprentice
Originally Posted by Frank Root
I've raced around the country, all classes, and all types of indoor tracks. I wouldn't say indoor track where generating grip is key would be an exception to the rule. They're actually quite common.
Sometimes, at some tracks, not traction rolling is a big challenge and something people look to improve with setup. Sometimes, at some tracks, traction rolling isn't an issue and creating grip and balance is something people look to improve.
Sometimes, at some tracks, not traction rolling is a big challenge and something people look to improve with setup. Sometimes, at some tracks, traction rolling isn't an issue and creating grip and balance is something people look to improve.
09-02-2019, 01:28 PM
#775
Originally Posted by MaX-D
Which diff is the G2? Link?
more like a normal gear diff and you don't have to increase the fluid like a planetary diff of the standard losi diff
09-09-2019, 06:09 AM
#776
Problem with TLR332067 gear diff: output shafts (bones) seem to be slightly short and one set of output drives are damaged already. Any solutions?
09-16-2019, 12:10 AM
#777
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
I know the three questions I'm about to ask have been asked in the past, but a "simple question" doesn't always have a "simple answer". It's kind of like asking, "What's the best tire to use?" As there's the possibility (probability?) of multiple variances being involved, answers are not always "simple", and are bound to be different, depending on the variances involved. Before asking the questions, here are my "variances":
a) track is an indoor, medium-size track
b) track is clay
c) track has medium-to-high bite
And, the questions:
1) Ball diff or gear diff - which would be the better option, and why?
2) Slipper or Direct-Drive - which, and why?
3) Stock TLR outdrives & driveshafts, or MOD/MIP Puck System (#18000), and why?
For each question, if you can also include the advantages/disadvantages of each over the other, that would be greatly appreciated. In regards to the slipper (if I stick with a slipper, as opposed to the Direct-Drive), I will mention that, if I stick with a slipper, I am seriously leaning towards the Avid's Triad Evo Slipper, as opposed to TLR's stock slipper.
This will be my third TLR vehicle. The first (8ight-XE), I built completely stock, except for replacing the stock bearings with ceramic bearings. The second (22 5.0 SR) is mostly stock, except for Ti turnbuckles, king pins, upper & lower screws, shock mounts, ball studs, & hinge pins, plus ceramic bearings. In building the 22T, while I'm eliminating the Ti screws, I am planning a few other upgrades. However, it's the three points, asked in my three questions, where I'm currently "undecided". As I am discovering (having returned to RC after a 35+ year absence), being involved in RC is a never-ending "learning process"...and, one of the best ways to learn is through input from others. As always, any assistance provided is greatly appreciated.
a) track is an indoor, medium-size track
b) track is clay
c) track has medium-to-high bite
And, the questions:
1) Ball diff or gear diff - which would be the better option, and why?
2) Slipper or Direct-Drive - which, and why?
3) Stock TLR outdrives & driveshafts, or MOD/MIP Puck System (#18000), and why?
For each question, if you can also include the advantages/disadvantages of each over the other, that would be greatly appreciated. In regards to the slipper (if I stick with a slipper, as opposed to the Direct-Drive), I will mention that, if I stick with a slipper, I am seriously leaning towards the Avid's Triad Evo Slipper, as opposed to TLR's stock slipper.
This will be my third TLR vehicle. The first (8ight-XE), I built completely stock, except for replacing the stock bearings with ceramic bearings. The second (22 5.0 SR) is mostly stock, except for Ti turnbuckles, king pins, upper & lower screws, shock mounts, ball studs, & hinge pins, plus ceramic bearings. In building the 22T, while I'm eliminating the Ti screws, I am planning a few other upgrades. However, it's the three points, asked in my three questions, where I'm currently "undecided". As I am discovering (having returned to RC after a 35+ year absence), being involved in RC is a never-ending "learning process"...and, one of the best ways to learn is through input from others. As always, any assistance provided is greatly appreciated.
09-16-2019, 01:20 AM
#778
Hi to everyone. I consider this chassis for indoor carpet racing. I've never had TLR chassis before. As I understand it, this chassis is designed for use with shorty- and saddle-style LiPo packs. I already have 2S LiPo's for my other chassis, it is 139mm x 47.5mm x 25.5mm. Is it possible to mount classic-size LiPo battery on it, or i need buy short ones?
09-26-2019, 10:56 AM
#779
Tech Apprentice
Originally Posted by wrgcpp
Hi to everyone. I consider this chassis for indoor carpet racing. I've never had TLR chassis before. As I understand it, this chassis is designed for use with shorty- and saddle-style LiPo packs. I already have 2S LiPo's for my other chassis, it is 139mm x 47.5mm x 25.5mm. Is it possible to mount classic-size LiPo battery on it, or i need buy short ones?
09-26-2019, 11:24 AM
#780
Tech Apprentice
Originally Posted by Panther6834
I know the three questions I'm about to ask have been asked in the past, but a "simple question" doesn't always have a "simple answer". It's kind of like asking, "What's the best tire to use?" As there's the possibility (probability?) of multiple variances being involved, answers are not always "simple", and are bound to be different, depending on the variances involved. Before asking the questions, here are my "variances":
a) track is an indoor, medium-size track
b) track is clay
c) track has medium-to-high bite
And, the questions:
1) Ball diff or gear diff - which would be the better option, and why?
2) Slipper or Direct-Drive - which, and why?
3) Stock TLR outdrives & driveshafts, or MOD/MIP Puck System (#18000), and why?
For each question, if you can also include the advantages/disadvantages of each over the other, that would be greatly appreciated. In regards to the slipper (if I stick with a slipper, as opposed to the Direct-Drive), I will mention that, if I stick with a slipper, I am seriously leaning towards the Avid's Triad Evo Slipper, as opposed to TLR's stock slipper.
This will be my third TLR vehicle. The first (8ight-XE), I built completely stock, except for replacing the stock bearings with ceramic bearings. The second (22 5.0 SR) is mostly stock, except for Ti turnbuckles, king pins, upper & lower screws, shock mounts, ball studs, & hinge pins, plus ceramic bearings. In building the 22T, while I'm eliminating the Ti screws, I am planning a few other upgrades. However, it's the three points, asked in my three questions, where I'm currently "undecided". As I am discovering (having returned to RC after a 35+ year absence), being involved in RC is a never-ending "learning process"...and, one of the best ways to learn is through input from others. As always, any assistance provided is greatly appreciated.
a) track is an indoor, medium-size track
b) track is clay
c) track has medium-to-high bite
And, the questions:
1) Ball diff or gear diff - which would be the better option, and why?
2) Slipper or Direct-Drive - which, and why?
3) Stock TLR outdrives & driveshafts, or MOD/MIP Puck System (#18000), and why?
For each question, if you can also include the advantages/disadvantages of each over the other, that would be greatly appreciated. In regards to the slipper (if I stick with a slipper, as opposed to the Direct-Drive), I will mention that, if I stick with a slipper, I am seriously leaning towards the Avid's Triad Evo Slipper, as opposed to TLR's stock slipper.
This will be my third TLR vehicle. The first (8ight-XE), I built completely stock, except for replacing the stock bearings with ceramic bearings. The second (22 5.0 SR) is mostly stock, except for Ti turnbuckles, king pins, upper & lower screws, shock mounts, ball studs, & hinge pins, plus ceramic bearings. In building the 22T, while I'm eliminating the Ti screws, I am planning a few other upgrades. However, it's the three points, asked in my three questions, where I'm currently "undecided". As I am discovering (having returned to RC after a 35+ year absence), being involved in RC is a never-ending "learning process"...and, one of the best ways to learn is through input from others. As always, any assistance provided is greatly appreciated.
The chassis on the new kits appear to be already drilled for laydown transmission and already come with the rear arms needed. The rear bumper will not bolt up to the 22T shock tower, especially if you are wanting to run the shocks in front of the arms. I used a set of dikes to cut the hinge ends off the standup waterfall and other parts I removed to do the laydown conversion and used them as spacers to attach the rear bumper with help from longer screws. It doesnt exactly look factory (was stretched on time so didnt take the time to clean them up with a dremel) but it gets the job done. Entirely different truck..
