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TLR 22 SCT 3.0

Old 08-13-2019, 09:36 AM
  #766  
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We have post all the parts and a conversion kit on our website rclyfe.com

RCLYFE 22SCT LOWRIDER CONVERSION We also have the parts you can get on there own as well.
https://tinyurl.com/y25yktxx

The RCLYFE 22SCT LowRider Conversion kit (#RCL049) is designed to get the best performance, and handling out of your 22SCT. This is done by lowering roll-center, limiting the roll created by the suspension, smoothing out steering response, and bring the weight into the center line of the truck. Bringing out the best in your 22SCT.

Included in the kit:
  • RCL050 LowRider rear tower kit
  • RCL051 LowRider front tower kit
  • RCL052 In-Line lipo battery cradle
  • RCL053 In-Line ESC tray

Addition parts required to complete:
  • #TLR233045 x2 G3 Shock Kit
  • #TLR334060 Carbon Tower Mount
  • #Exotek1752 Laydown Body Mounts
  • #TLR233027 x 2 G3 Buggy Front Shock Shafts
**Cutting the mud guards is required for proper installation**

Let us know if you have any questions
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Old 08-13-2019, 09:11 PM
  #767  
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Mazur50.. Pretty slick looking. By running the battery in-line and the esc behind it puts more weight on the front and gives maybe a bit more steering traction but dont you lose rear traction on a indoor clay track? Are you running weights on the front or rear? Sway bars? .. it looks like you have all the the pieces to mount the rear bumper to the tower which is nice..
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Old 08-14-2019, 10:38 AM
  #768  
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Originally Posted by Kswarrior View Post
By running the battery in-line and the esc behind it puts more weight on the front and gives maybe a bit more steering traction but dont you lose rear traction on a indoor clay track?
Traction rolls are the problem on indoor clay, not the lack of traction.
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Old 08-14-2019, 03:18 PM
  #769  
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Originally Posted by 071crazy View Post
Traction rolls are the problem on indoor clay, not the lack of traction.
That depends greatly on the track... not all clay tracks are the same.
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Old 08-14-2019, 03:24 PM
  #770  
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Looks awesome!
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Old 08-15-2019, 07:48 AM
  #771  
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Originally Posted by Frank Root View Post
That depends greatly on the track... not all clay tracks are the same.
I get that, there's always an exception to the rule. Happy?

Last edited by 071crazy; 08-15-2019 at 08:00 AM.
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Old 08-15-2019, 01:49 PM
  #772  
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Originally Posted by 071crazy View Post
I get that, there's always an exception to the rule. Happy?
I've raced around the country, all classes, and all types of indoor tracks. I wouldn't say indoor track where generating grip is key would be an exception to the rule. They're actually quite common.

Sometimes, at some tracks, not traction rolling is a big challenge and something people look to improve with setup. Sometimes, at some tracks, traction rolling isn't an issue and creating grip and balance is something people look to improve.
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Old 08-15-2019, 04:06 PM
  #773  
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Originally Posted by Frank Root View Post
I've raced around the country, all classes, and all types of indoor tracks. I wouldn't say indoor track where generating grip is key would be an exception to the rule. They're actually quite common.

Sometimes, at some tracks, not traction rolling is a big challenge and something people look to improve with setup. Sometimes, at some tracks, traction rolling isn't an issue and creating grip and balance is something people look to improve.
I race on 2 tracks that grip is more of an issue rather than traction roll (more often than not). Not saying when the tracks in I dont find myself traction rolling some, but I appear to be pretty well setup for that. I'm pretty competitive with the truck totally stock but hell I'm all for improving it.
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Old 09-02-2019, 01:15 PM
  #774  
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anybody run gear diffs on outdoor dirt? if so what fluid did you use? I tried 5k i think and didn't like it but that just could of been my bad driving.
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Old 09-02-2019, 01:28 PM
  #775  
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Originally Posted by MaX-D View Post


Which diff is the G2? Link?
Team Losi Racing

more like a normal gear diff and you don't have to increase the fluid like a planetary diff of the standard losi diff
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Old 09-09-2019, 06:09 AM
  #776  
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Problem with TLR332067 gear diff: output shafts (bones) seem to be slightly short and one set of output drives are damaged already. Any solutions?
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Old 09-16-2019, 12:10 AM
  #777  
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I know the three questions I'm about to ask have been asked in the past, but a "simple question" doesn't always have a "simple answer". It's kind of like asking, "What's the best tire to use?" As there's the possibility (probability?) of multiple variances being involved, answers are not always "simple", and are bound to be different, depending on the variances involved. Before asking the questions, here are my "variances":
a) track is an indoor, medium-size track
b) track is clay
c) track has medium-to-high bite

And, the questions:
1) Ball diff or gear diff - which would be the better option, and why?
2) Slipper or Direct-Drive - which, and why?
3) Stock TLR outdrives & driveshafts, or MOD/MIP Puck System (#18000), and why?

For each question, if you can also include the advantages/disadvantages of each over the other, that would be greatly appreciated. In regards to the slipper (if I stick with a slipper, as opposed to the Direct-Drive), I will mention that, if I stick with a slipper, I am seriously leaning towards the Avid's Triad Evo Slipper, as opposed to TLR's stock slipper.

This will be my third TLR vehicle. The first (8ight-XE), I built completely stock, except for replacing the stock bearings with ceramic bearings. The second (22 5.0 SR) is mostly stock, except for Ti turnbuckles, king pins, upper & lower screws, shock mounts, ball studs, & hinge pins, plus ceramic bearings. In building the 22T, while I'm eliminating the Ti screws, I am planning a few other upgrades. However, it's the three points, asked in my three questions, where I'm currently "undecided". As I am discovering (having returned to RC after a 35+ year absence), being involved in RC is a never-ending "learning process"...and, one of the best ways to learn is through input from others. As always, any assistance provided is greatly appreciated.
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Old 09-16-2019, 01:20 AM
  #778  
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Hi to everyone. I consider this chassis for indoor carpet racing. I've never had TLR chassis before. As I understand it, this chassis is designed for use with shorty- and saddle-style LiPo packs. I already have 2S LiPo's for my other chassis, it is 139mm x 47.5mm x 25.5mm. Is it possible to mount classic-size LiPo battery on it, or i need buy short ones?
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Old 09-26-2019, 10:56 AM
  #779  
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Originally Posted by wrgcpp View Post
Hi to everyone. I consider this chassis for indoor carpet racing. I've never had TLR chassis before. As I understand it, this chassis is designed for use with shorty- and saddle-style LiPo packs. I already have 2S LiPo's for my other chassis, it is 139mm x 47.5mm x 25.5mm. Is it possible to mount classic-size LiPo battery on it, or i need buy short ones?
Look at Mazur50's recent posts. I only run dirt however that upgrade looks like it would be ideal for carpet. Wouldn't be surprised if you couldn't stick a long pack in that setup if you wanted to. I just havent bit the bullet and ordered it for my truck yet (debating if I want to drop another $200ish into the truck. A used 22t 4.0 I bought had enough spares to convert my sc into a laydown transmission).
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Old 09-26-2019, 11:24 AM
  #780  
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Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
I know the three questions I'm about to ask have been asked in the past, but a "simple question" doesn't always have a "simple answer". It's kind of like asking, "What's the best tire to use?" As there's the possibility (probability?) of multiple variances being involved, answers are not always "simple", and are bound to be different, depending on the variances involved. Before asking the questions, here are my "variances":
a) track is an indoor, medium-size track
b) track is clay
c) track has medium-to-high bite

And, the questions:
1) Ball diff or gear diff - which would be the better option, and why?
2) Slipper or Direct-Drive - which, and why?
3) Stock TLR outdrives & driveshafts, or MOD/MIP Puck System (#18000), and why?

For each question, if you can also include the advantages/disadvantages of each over the other, that would be greatly appreciated. In regards to the slipper (if I stick with a slipper, as opposed to the Direct-Drive), I will mention that, if I stick with a slipper, I am seriously leaning towards the Avid's Triad Evo Slipper, as opposed to TLR's stock slipper.

This will be my third TLR vehicle. The first (8ight-XE), I built completely stock, except for replacing the stock bearings with ceramic bearings. The second (22 5.0 SR) is mostly stock, except for Ti turnbuckles, king pins, upper & lower screws, shock mounts, ball studs, & hinge pins, plus ceramic bearings. In building the 22T, while I'm eliminating the Ti screws, I am planning a few other upgrades. However, it's the three points, asked in my three questions, where I'm currently "undecided". As I am discovering (having returned to RC after a 35+ year absence), being involved in RC is a never-ending "learning process"...and, one of the best ways to learn is through input from others. As always, any assistance provided is greatly appreciated.
Unless you are planning to run dirt outdoors I would plan on laydown transmission conversion . I have no person experience with gear diff however a friend has 1 in his daughters 2wd buggy it appears simply out of convenience. Doesn't appear to be as good as ball diff on indoor clay. I run 13.5 in my truck so a little weary about running direct drive, plus you have to figure in your options for spur gears is less. My stock pucks and ball diff serve me just fine, I've pretty much have an entire season on mine and everything seems to be holding up well. When I go to rebuild I might try the MIP, but so far see no need to spend the extra money...

The chassis on the new kits appear to be already drilled for laydown transmission and already come with the rear arms needed. The rear bumper will not bolt up to the 22T shock tower, especially if you are wanting to run the shocks in front of the arms. I used a set of dikes to cut the hinge ends off the standup waterfall and other parts I removed to do the laydown conversion and used them as spacers to attach the rear bumper with help from longer screws. It doesnt exactly look factory (was stretched on time so didnt take the time to clean them up with a dremel) but it gets the job done. Entirely different truck..
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